I need hardiplank advise

[Cliff Newton]

I'm installing lap siding on my house. Do I have to butt the planks up against the trim pieces or can I put the trim directly on top of the planks? Also, do you have any tips on installing this stuff?

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

I prefer to but against the trim and then caulk. I'm not a pro.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Cliff, the contractor who built my new shop butted the hardiboard lapped siding up against the corner trim and the windows. Seems to have worked well!

[Jim O'Dell]

Cliff,
I'm in the process of doing the siding on my shop. I mounted the trim first, and will be butting the planks up to the trim, that is if the weather will ever cooperate with me on the weekend. If nothing else, I believe that the gap will be smaller and therefore use less caulking. What width plank are you using? Good luck! I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your progress. Jim.

[Ray Thompson]

Ask away, I did my house in HardiPlank less than two years ago, and so far I am pleased with the result. I even used the perforated panels for the soffits and 4 x 8 sheets for the ceiling of the porch. We used a roofing gun to nail the siding on. I fully sheeted the house in plywood so nailers were not a problem. For trim we used the Miratek product. At that time Hardi did not make a trim board, why I don't know. We put the trim up and butted the siding to it leaving a gap of 1/8 of an inch and no gaps where the siding met end to end. For the trim we used a finish nailer with 2" nails. The painter then came in and caulked everything, including the nail holes in the trim. Feel free to ask any questions you might have and I will try to answer them.

Ray

BTW - get masonry blades for your saw, nothing else will hold up.

[Curtis O. Seebeck]

Cliff,

I am a home builder and have used a LOT of HardiPlank. To directly answer your question, yes you can install the trim over the lap siding although I would not. Not because of any reason other than appearance. If you install over the siding you will have a wedge shaped void or crack at each piece and it will be very difficult to caulk. It is quite easy to butt the siding to the trim so go that route and you will be much more satisfied with the results.

As for other tips, use a coil nailer and a good HardiPlank saw blade. Hitachi makes the least dusty, cleanest cutting blade. Don't waste your time or money to rent the shears as they tend to cause the planks to delaminate on the edges. Be sure your rainscreen (building paper, tar paper, or housewrap) is installed properly before the Hardi. Remember that siding is not waterproof and the rainscreen is what will keep the moisture out. Hope that helps some.

[Cliff Newton]

Thanks guys.

Is it okay to use a framing nailer and 2 inch nails for the siding also instead of a roofing gun? I just dropped a bunch of dough on a framing nailer thinking it was the right gun to use.

Also, should I use Tyvek tape to seal the housewrap or are staples good enough?

[Ray Thompson]

Thanks guys.

Is it okay to use a framing nailer and 2 inch nails for the siding also instead of a roofing gun? I just dropped a bunch of dough on a framing nailer thinking it was the right gun to use.

Also, should I use Tyvek tape to seal the housewrap or are staples good enough?

Personally I would not use a framing nailer for that job. I think the 2" nails would protrude to far through and leave potential problems with wires and pipes. Also I like a bigger head on the nail as the material is a bit soft and might have the potential to pull through it the head is set to deep. I bought my material from a large lumber dealer (not big box) and they loaned me the gun for installation.

Ray

[Curtis O. Seebeck]

Cliff,

The 2" nails would not be a problem, IMO. It is the diameter of the nail that will potentially cause the material to bust out more. We use a DuoFast or Hitachi coil nailer and not a roofing nailer. The nails we use are ring shank and 2" long with a normal head. You do not need a larger head but HardiPlank installation instructions require that the nail NOT be countersunk. It needs to be flat on the surface. Also, you absolutely need to shoot the nails into the studs behind, not just into the sheathing. The sheathing does not have enough material to properly hold the siding. Building codes require it to be shot into the studs as well. So basically, the framing gun will work but may cause more "blow-outs". Also, make sure you use a galvanized nail as the cement in the Hardi will cause corosion with normal nails.

As for the Tyvek, you do not have to use the Tyvek tape if everything is "shingled" properly but it would be better. You definately need to keep in mind the "shingle effect" when installing the housewrap to make sure that everything is layered from the bottom up to make the water shed away from the inside. The Tyvek tape simply seals the seams. If you have windows or doors do not use Tyvek tape around them to seal them off. Use a bitmus tape like the Tyvek Straight Flash. Install it on the sides and then across the top of the window. Leave the bottom open to allow any moisture that does get in to escape. They Tyvek tape will not adhere properly around the windows and will fail in short time.

I have installed over 50,000 square feet of this stuff and use it on every house that I build that has siding. I have been using it since it first came out around here and have been to classes put on my James Hardi as well as Tyvek on the proper installation of their products. If you have any other questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer them.