Quick Gambrel Roof Question

[Dennis Putnam]

I am planning a building with a gambrel roof. Is it better to put the floor decking on before the trusses or should the trusses sit directly on the joists? Does it matter other than the extra cutting if the decking goes on after? TIA

[Richard Coers]

I've only built 2 yard sheds with gambrels, nothing big. I put on the deck first since I used that as a base for my fixture to hand make the trusses. Can't say how the big buys do it.

[Bret Duffin]

I would always sheet the floor before adding the next layer up, whether it is walls for another floor above or the roof system. Not only does if give you a nice platform to work off of but the sheeting adds major stability and shear strength. It would also be way easier to do the sheeting now rather than after there is a bunch of walls or roof framing in the way. I would think any experienced framer would agree.

Bret

[Maurice Ungaro]

You have not mentioned anything about a knee wall where the trusses tie into. All trusses should be tied into the top plate of the structure - above all else. If you need to deck a portion of the top floor to work on it, go ahead, but make sure the trusses are tied in before worrying about having to take a saws all and cut in decking. Same goes for a gable roof, hipped roof, etc.

[Dennis Putnam]

So you're saying, deck the center up to the knee wall but tie the trusses to the top plate and joists. Decking around all that is what I was hoping to avoid but not at the expense of structural integrity.

[Maurice Ungaro]

Right. Structural integrity is everything. Part of framing is also being able to cut- in decking, sheathing, etc.

[Charles Lent]

I built a 14' X 26' shed with a gambrel roof and I built my own trusses for it on the floor deck before putting up the walls. The base of each truss is a 14' 2 X 8. The rest is 2 X 4 stock. I used pieces of 1/2" plywood glued (Titebond II) and nailed over each joint on both sides of each truss. An added 2 X 4 vertical was inserted to allow for walls if I ever chose to add them and these were also joined to the truss with glue and nails. These helped to significantly stiffen the truss in addition to being available for wall installation. I set the completed trusses aside, built the walls of the shed, and then had 2 friends help me lift and set the trusses in place. A 3/4 plywood floor was installed in the trusses, up to the vertical wall studs with no attempt made to floor to the end of the 2 X 8 around the studs. The roof and siding of the shed is 1/2" plywood. That was 28 years ago and the shed (now my woodshop) has survived extremely well. It took 3 direct 8-10" diameter pine tree hits during a hurricane with only some shingle damage. The structure itself had no damage. I presently have about 1500 lbs of lumber and another 500 lbs of machinery stored on the upper floor. If I were to build another similar shed I would use the same basic design.

Charley

[Bob Lloyd]

Dennis

You did not state the size of the building. I am assuming that you are using a gambrel design to make good use of the upper floor. Are the trusses that you are referring to just for the upper part of the roof or are they gambrel attic trusses where the floor is part of the truss which is what Charles was describing?

http://www.polebuildingpackages.com/attic-stoarge-truss.shtml

Bob

[Lee Schierer]

I built a 14' X 26' shed with a gambrel roof and I built my own trusses for it on the floor deck before putting up the walls. The base of each truss is a 14' 2 X 8. The rest is 2 X 4 stock. I used pieces of 1/2" plywood glued (Titebond II) and nailed over each joint on both sides of each truss. An added 2 X 4 vertical was inserted to allow for walls if I ever chose to add them and these were also joined to the truss with glue and nails. These helped to significantly stiffen the truss in addition to being available for wall installation. I set the completed trusses aside, built the walls of the shed, and then had 2 friends help me lift and set the trusses in place. A 3/4 plywood floor was installed in the trusses, up to the vertical wall studs with no attempt made to floor to the end of the 2 X 8 around the studs. The roof and siding of the shed is 1/2" plywood. That was 28 years ago and the shed (now my woodshop) has survived extremely well. It took 3 direct 8-10" diameter pine tree hits during a hurricane with only some shingle damage. The structure itself had no damage. I presently have about 1500 lbs of lumber and another 500 lbs of machinery stored on the upper floor. If I were to build another similar shed I would use the same basic design.

Charley

I did the same thing when I built my pole barn for storing my Boat. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/barn.jpg I built all the trusses on the ground and then with the help of LOML and my kids we put each on in place on the side walls and then stood them up in place. I floored over part of the joists after teh roof was on. The barn is over 20 years old now and I've seen over 3 feet of snow on the roof of it.