Lock Miter bits?

[michael gates]

Anyone use a lock miter bit, I am thinking about getting one to attach face frames. Any suggestions?

[craig greene]

Get the set up blocks and take your time setting the bit up. Once you get it right for your face frame wood, save some cut offs to use in the future. The bit makes a strong miter joint but the set up is a bear. Try this link http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm10.htm

[Neil Brooks]

Amen to Craig's point.

I made my setup blocks out of UHMW, though, in pretty much ALL the thicknesses of stock that I expected to work with.

The UHMW was bought, by the pound, as scrap.

Mine's an glue-joint bit -- same horse, but different jockey.

I went with Amana, and have been VERY happy with it.

[Curt Putnam]

Hmmmm..... I've always thought lock miter bits were used for things such as drawer corners, smaller boxes and such. I can't quite picture how you would use one to attach face frames

[Jesse Tutterrow]

My Lock Miter bit automatically cuts the edge at a 45 degree angle with a tongue and groove on each piece. So I can't imagine how you would use it to attach face frames to cabinets.

I use it for boxes (drawers). Setup requires exact bit height, so as others have said when you get the bit set perfectly make a setup block. I have 2 blocks, one for the side and one for the front/back.

For attaching face frames to cabinets, I use the Sommerfeld Tools tongue and groove (http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Tongue-Groove-Cutters/productinfo/02003/)set (method).

[Van Huskey]

I only use Whiteside and Freud bits and RARELY ever have an issue.

See page 39 of the April 2011 Fine Wood Working magazine for the best setup procedure for a LM bit I have seen. Works well.

[michael gates]

I said face frames but was thinking something else, I would be using them to attach the frames (aka doors) to build blanket boxes, right now I am pocket screwing them from the inside and screwing on the bottom. The pocket screws are ugly.

[Chris Padilla]

I always have trouble setting these bits up. I think they just don't "work" in my brain and I've seen all sorts of set-up guides. I'll have to check out the newest FWW.

Pocket screws are ugly but they're fast and easy.

[michael gates]

If the lock miter bit worked well I would set up a dedicated router & table but I dont want to waste my time if they are time consuming to assemble or dont give good results.

[Dan Bowman]

I gave up trying to set up the LM bit. If I need a mitered corner I just use splines and stop the groove so you can't see it. The Sommerfeld set gives good results if you don't absolutely need a miter

[Erik France]

A lock miter isn't too hard to set up. Using straight, square material with a consistant thickness will produce better results. Featherboards will help a lot too.