All wood cabinet doors?

[Brian Penning]

Could use some suggestions on methods of making solid walnut frame and panel kitchen cabinet doors.
The panels have to be solid walnut and the style will be simple shaker with a flat panel.
The reverse raised panel is 1 method but I'm concerned with the doors warping due to the thickness of the panel.
Other than that if I make thinner panels then how to I get the most out of the thick lumber? Resaw?
Other ideas?
TIA.

[glenn bradley]

I'm a little confused. Solid panel doors are very common. What is it about these that make you think there will be a problem? Are you saying you want to make slab doors with no frame? http://www.cabdoor.com/pagefiles/slab.php

[Joe Angrisani]

Glenn.... Methinks Brian is saying he's afraid the "normal thickness" boards of a reversed raised panel Shaker-esque door will have enough force behind their movement to cause the frames to warp.

Brian.... If I'm right in my paraphrase above: I think you've forgotten that you are making the panels out of stable lumber that has been dried and milled to remove twist/cup/bow/etc. If you use poorly cured or poorly milled lumber, then yes, I suppose it could geek a rail or stile as the panel wood stabilizes.

[Chip Lindley]

I see no difference in stability of a reverse panel and a raised panel--IF the wood is seasoned. You must allow for expansion across the panel width. There may be instability if the panel is made very thin of solid stock for a large cabinet door. Veneered plywood, with it's lack of movement, works better in this respect.

[Frank Drew]

Glenn.... Methinks Brian is saying he's afraid the "normal thickness" boards of a reversed raised panel Shaker-esque door will have enough force behind their movement to cause the frames to warp.

Brian.... If I'm right in my paraphrase above: I think you've forgotten that you are making the panels out of stable lumber that has been dried and milled to remove twist/cup/bow/etc. If you use poorly cured or poorly milled lumber, then yes, I suppose it could geek a rail or stile as the panel wood stabilizes.

Put me down ditto to Joe's interpretation of the question, and his advice. Stock preparation is critical; it's always better to give your wood some extra time in an indoor environment before working it up.

[Joe Chritz]

I often resaw 4/4 lumber and glue up for flat (recessed) panel doors. I generally just use as thick a panel as I can get with the stock and how well I resaw it. Usually end up around 3/8" or so. If the stock is properly dried all is good. I don't like plywood panels because of the decreased weight of the doors. Using thinner solid panels is a very good idea.

Using a full thickness panel reversed works great and makes a solid feeling door, although it is not any stronger than with a thinner solid panel. The primary reason I like a thinner panel is because I like to run all my doors through the drum sander and a panel protruding above the rail/stiles makes that impossible.

Joe

[Brian Penning]

Yeah you got my poor explanation correct.
But which way do I go? Resaw the 1" lumber OR stay with a reversed thicker panel?

[Larry Edgerton]

I do the same thing as Joe, but he must be better with a band saw, mine are usually 5/16"

[Mark Rakestraw]

I vote for resawing solid wood so you can bookmatch the adjoining doors