Finish question for Steve Schlumpf

[Roger Chandler]

Steve,

I read your finish info that you gave when you use wipe on poly. I have a question on how long you let it dry between coats, and also, do you sand between coats every coat, or every 3 or 4?

How long do you allow your finish to dry before sanding in order to get the nibs off? I find a paper towel leaves behind little nibs in the finish, and I want to get that stopped if possible.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roger - how long something takes to dry really depends on heat and humidity and to a lesser degree - how old your finish is. When I apply the first one or two saturation coats, I allow 24 hours to dry no matter how warm it it. When I wipe on the thin coats, they usually will dry in 2 to 3 hours because they are so thin. I always check first and if the finish is tacky at all, I give it another hour and then check again.

I let the finish build up a little before lightly sanding to remove the nibs. Usually the first time is after 3 or 4 of the thin coats - then again just before the finial coat. So if the form is taking the finish well, there may only be a total of 7 coats of finish on it (that is in addition to the 1 or 2 initial saturation coats to seal the wood). So, with 7 thin coats, I would have sanded after 3 and then again after 6. You don't want to sand again after your last coat as the buffer will have a hard time trying to remove those scratch patterns. It usually does pretty good at removing small nibs from the last layer - so I just buff those away.

I use a folded up section of paper towel. It does leave nibs and I have tried a variety of paper towels... they all seem to leave a little something behind but it is something I can work with!

[Roger Chandler]

Thank you much Steve...........your reply was pretty much what I thought, with the exception of the saturation coats........that one is a tip I can go with and get some better results I think. Sanding every 3 or 4 coats of thin application would make sense, as it seems any sooner and it would just remove the coat just put on.

I appreciate you taking the time to reply.............gratitude!

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roger - not a problem! Just remember to use a very high grit sandpaper and VERY light pressure or you will be adding coats of finish into next week!

[Roger Chandler]

Roger - not a problem! Just remember to use a very high grit sandpaper and VERY light pressure or you will be adding coats of finish into next week!

I hear you Steve! I think I will use a 1000 grit abralon pad, or maybe a 2000 grit one. that should keep the scratches to a minimum and still get the nibs off and smooth for the final coats.

[Tim Thiebaut]

LOL....Roger we are on the same wave length, I PM'ed steve yesterday morning this exact question about drying times, I guess I should have just asked it here so everyone could see it. Steve does have some beautiful finishes on his pieces.

[Rick Markham]

Steve, I find this interesting, we use a very similar methodology for this. I pretty much had to try and perfect mine, since I was having very little luck with buffing WOP until I PM'd you awhile ago (still working on that aspect but it's much more successful at this point) There are a few minor things that I do a little bit different that has been very successful in achieving a finish barely needing any buffing. My finishing schedule, sanding schedule is almost identical to yours, even numbers of coats. I do seal with dewaxed shelac as a sanding sealer (seems to help minimize the massive absorption of WOP in the beginning, though I think next time I am going to do it your way to give it a try) I use small squares of, new, clean, white, tshirt with a cotton ball inside them (like a "rubber" for french polishing) to apply the WOP, it helps me control the thin layer of WOP I'm applying, and doesn't leave nibs. after every application it is disposed of properly and a new one is used each time. To prevent runs and help keep the finish as evenly distributed over the piece (since WOP is so thin, and not viscous) I apply the finish and allow the piece to rotate at the lowest speed my lathe will go (48rpms) until it begins to set enough that it isn't free flowing (about 15 or 20mins) this helps allow the thin layer of finish to evenly spread over the surface without pooling or running. I also follow your schedule for sanding nearly identically 3 or 4 coats, sand very lightly with 600grit (or 0000 steel wool) blow off the dust/abrasive, and apply 3 coats, ultra light sanding and then 1 or 2 very very light finish coats. The end results have been spectacular so far. Now your buffing techniques are starting to payoff, and hopefully, (with a little more practice) it will really blossom. Thanks for your help!

[philip labre]

Rick, try using a piece of satin around a piece of balled up cotton. I used up old brides maid dresses. I do this when applying Tru-oil on my nets and it cuts down on any drag marks because of the finer weave and no lint.

[Rick Markham]

Philip, good thinking, I will give that a shot! I always used the tshirt rags from the borg, new material so no lint either, but you still do get miniscule marks. Hmmm think the LOML will miss her satin sheets :D

[Jon Nuckles]

Interesting stuff; thanks for posting it. Rick, is Steve's buffing advice posted in another thread? I have the Don Pencil system on order and would like to read up on the topic.

[Roger Chandler]

Philip, good thinking, I will give that a shot! I always used the tshirt rags from the borg, new material so no lint either, but you still do get miniscule marks. Hmmm think the LOML will miss her satin sheets :D

Hey Rick,

I am trying your method with an old T-shirt for some final coats of WOP. Only difference is instead of cotton, I am using some large gauze pads like you would use for dressing a wound......sterile cotton. I am waiting for a coat to dry as I am typing this.......took some 1000 grit abralon and then 2000 grit abralon pads, blew off the dust, and applied more WOP.

Hoping this will give me the smooth finish I am looking for!

[Rick Markham]

Roger, let us know how it turns out! I'm looking forward to trying the satin sheet trick, sounds like a winner.

Jon, I'm not sure if Steve has posted a thread on how he buffs, his wisdom has certainly helped me tremendously, I just buffed a maple piece to a pure glass finish today. His words of wisdom to me were to use only the tiniest amount of compound ( a little goes a long way) lower rpms than what is recommended (about 1000 rpms on the beal system) very light pressure between the buffing wheel and the work piece, and patience.... And it works! Spectacularly!