Finish Woe

[David Warkentin]

When I turn something and finish with WOP, I get a way darker color on the endgrain. How do you guys get a finish that is all the same? This happens on cherry and maple. And probably others...

[Nate Davey]

I coat all surfaces with Zinser Bullseye Shellac. Seals all the surfaces and makes for a more even WOP Finish

[Richard Kennedy UK]

Are you supposed to seal under WOP I thought it went on bare wood? I am having an awful time with my first WOP piece this may be where I went wrong!

[David T gray]

i've done it both ways using shellac is the best way and much quicker but i have never had the end grain darker when using just wop either.

[David Warkentin]

I'll have to try something tomorrow. What about sanding sealer? Is that just for sanding?

[David E Keller]

I use shellac under everything including WOP. I don't think it's mandatory, but I feel like I get a faster build that way. If you're getting a big difference in color between end and side grain, I wonder if you're not sanding to a fine enough grit? There's always some color difference, but I don't generally think of it being really pronounced. PHotos would help.

[John Keeton]

David, how far are you sanding? You may need to go 600 grit on some woods to avoid as much end grain darkening. Sometimes, it will happen unavoidably, but shellac will reduce the risk. I usually use BLO, shellac and WOP on most of my turnings without much difference in the darkness of the endgrain.

Sanding sealer is nothing more than thin finish or shellac. Just use dewaxed shellac.

[David Warkentin]

I was only sanding to about 220 probably on some turkey calls...Maybe my problem

[John Keeton]

David, I would guess you are right. On flatwork, 220 is an acceptable level for a build finish, but even at that, I often would put a wash coat of thin shellac on the endgrain of the boards to avoid the color variation. On turnings, 400 is minimum, and will work most of the time. Lot of folks sand past that.

[Steve Schlumpf]

The minimum grit I sand to is 320 and that is on those pieces that I know I am going to dye as the 'rough' surface gives the dye something to wick into! Like others have already mentioned - sand to 400 minimum and see if that doesn't change things for you.

Looking forward to the photos!

[Richard Kennedy UK]

Sorry to be a lemon but can someone clarify I have a lovely piece of spalted beech waiting for a finish should I apply celulose sanding sealer then WOP or will that affect the end result? I am still having issues with the last WOP I tried its still got area where the finish has soaked in it just won't cover despite me using turps and steel wool to cut it back and start again. so should I seal or not?

[Jerome Hanby]

I'll have to try something tomorrow. What about sanding sealer? Is that just for sanding?

Maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in, but I think many sanding sealers are just dewaxed shellac. I know Zinsser Bullseye Seal Coat is...

[John Keeton]

...I am still having issues with the last WOP I tried its still got area where the finish has soaked in it just won't cover despite me using turps and steel wool to cut it back and start again. so should I seal or not?Richard, I have found that WOP will soak into certain pieces for several coats, to the point one doesn't think it will ever start to build, and on the 6-7 coat, all of a sudden it glosses over. Sealing with dewaxed shellac while on the lathe is a very good way to seal a piece and helps get a good start on the WOP. The first coat of WOP will probably take a little longer to set up as it isn't soaking into the wood.

When I "burn in" a coat of shellac on the lathe, I first put a little BLO on a piece of shop towel to reduce friction. Then put dewaxed shellac on the turning with another piece - covering the turning well. Work it around - quickly - and then wipe off. Turn on the lathe and at 1000 rpm or so, use the towel with the BLO to burnish the shellac to a very nice finish. You can do this a couple of times. Actually, it makes a very nice final finish depending on what you want to do with the piece. You have to work quickly with the shellac because of the fast drying time.

[Doug Wolf]

Should I apply cellulose sanding sealer then WOP or will that affect the end result?

Richard,
I use 50/50 cellulose sanding sealer and lacquer thinner to seal the wood on the lathe. You can buff it as you would lacquer or WOP or you can top coat it with your choice of finish. The grain won't pop like it would with an oil finish but it gives you a more even constancy in the final finish.

[Richard Kennedy UK]

Thanks for the help I have applied sealer and now 2 coats of WOP I think it will need a few more but will post the piece when its finished!