Use and selection of planes and scrapers

[Bob Johnson2]

Can anyone point to a book or some such on the proper use and selection of planes and scrapers? I'm interested in cutting down on the sanding I have to do with each project and these look like the way to go. Something to do fairly large flat areas.
Is there a big difference in brands? I can tell there's a huge difference in price, the 3 planes I have are Stanleys which look to be cheap comparably, are they worth learning on? I've got a #4 and a small one that says it's a 9 1/4, also a small one that's I've used a lot that's a low angle, same size as the 9 1/4. They all have the original blades.

Any advise or suggestions would be appreciated.

[Pam Niedermayer]

Sure, start with Garrett Hack's "The Handplane Book" and/or Mike Dunbar's "Restoring, Tuning & Using Classic Woodworking Tools."

Pam

[Dan Clermont in Burnaby]

Doh!!! pam beat me to it. I agree with Pam on the above two mentioned books as excellent sources which will make you realize how much planes can do.

Careful with your wallet and don't step too close to the slippery slope. :)

Dan Clermont

[Steve Wargo]

The Whelan Book, The Wooden Plans, It's History, Form and Function. I think the section on Molding plane profiles is outstanding, I know that this only covers the wooden types of planes, but it is a pretty good read.

[Bob Johnson2]

Thanks, I've found the first 2 books locally, not so on the Whelan Book.

So is there enough of a difference between planes to justify the wide swing of prices for a plane rookie? As Dan eludes to, this is probably a bad idea for me, I have a tendency to slide down the slope.

[Pam Niedermayer]

The differences among hand planes is enormous, among and within type. Any price has its justification. :)


Pam

[Leif Hanson]

Tim Mahaffey has posted a bunch of Bob Feeser's stuff on hand planes, makes for some good reading:

http://workshop.tjmahaffey.com/workshop/planes1.php

[Bob Johnson2]

Thanks Lief, I'll be reading for a good while now.

[Bob Johnson2]

Just wanted to drop a note of thanks for pointing me int he right direction, I spent the last week cleaning/adjusting a couple Stanley planes that I had given up on and used them for the first time today to scarf a couple 12" cuts, worked perfectly and I was amazed haw fast the job was done. The handplane book was well worth the read.

Scary Sharp sure beat using my long hollowed out stones, although it still took a good bit of elbow grease...

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Thanks, I've found the first 2 books locally, not so on the Whelan Book.

So is there enough of a difference between planes to justify the wide swing of prices for a plane rookie? As Dan eludes to, this is probably a bad idea for me, I have a tendency to slide down the slope.

Yes, eerrr no. Welllllll maybe. Bob, I think it depends on the person. For me it does. Compare a well tuned $40 pre way stanley Nr. 4 to a modern LN and they will both do the job well. The LN has nicer machining, the Stanley has crude machine marks in some places. The LN adjustments are crisp with little backlash while the Stanley can have LOTS of backlash in the adjuster. The LN will be heavier and feel more substantial. It just depends on what you are willing to pay for or put up with.

[Wendell Wilkerson]

Thanks, I've found the first 2 books locally, not so on the Whelan Book.


I just recently bought the Whelan book from Martin J. Donnelly Antiques. He has a sale on all Astragal Press books for 20% off. The Wooden Plane: Its History, Form and Function is $30 on sale ($37.50 regular price). If you have any interest in someday making wooden planes, pick up Whelan's Making Traditional Wooden Planes while you're at it. It is an excellent resource.

Wendell

[Dan Moening]

Another book not yet mentioned and that is readily available at Woodcraft is:

Planecraft - Handplaning by Modern Methods by C.W. Hampton & E. Clifford
ISBN 0-918036-00-3

An excellent resource, and for only ~$12 !

[Renardo Subrosa]

There are basically two kinds of books out there, as I see it. One is a color-picture, coffee-table book. The second is a simple book with line drawings meant to impart useful information. The Planecraft book is of the second variety and I recommend this type of book way above the pretty picture books. But then I'm just a grumpy "older" woodworker who learned the trade the hard way--from line-drawing books.
--
Cheers,
Reny

[Renardo Subrosa]

Yes, eerrr no. Welllllll maybe. Bob, I think it depends on the person. For me it does. Compare a well tuned $40 pre way stanley Nr. 4 to a modern LN and they will both do the job well. The LN has nicer machining, the Stanley has crude machine marks in some places. The LN adjustments are crisp with little backlash while the Stanley can have LOTS of backlash in the adjuster. The LN will be heavier and feel more substantial. It just depends on what you are willing to pay for or put up with.

Hmmm, backlash? Well, that's no bother. What I do is to back the adjuster off as far as I want and then, to move the iron to that point, I give the body a little tap with a hammer or mallet. If a tap doesn't move it, likely the iron is held down too tight. I guess my methods sort of combine old wedged-plane methods with modern but sloppy planes. I just HATE spending the money needed to get a fancy, top-quality, modern plane with less slop since these also have slop too, just less of it.

Cheers,
Reny