Sawblade suggestions plz

[Mike OMelia]

I want to purchase an excellent multipurpose saw blade (table saw). I don't want to switch out for ripping and crosscutting. Working with maple and cherry.

Thanks!

Mike

[Bill Huber]

I am sure you will get a few different relies and each one will have a different blade so get ready.

For me, I had a Forrest I and it was not that great, then a Forrest II and it was just ok but I now use a Freud, Premier Fusion. This is a great combo blade and makes a glass cut. http://www.freudtools.com/p-14-premier-fusionbr-nbsp.aspx

My thoughts on a combo blade, they are very good for general use but not as good for ripping as a good rip blade. If you are doing a lot of ripping I would get a good glue line rip blade. I keep the combo blade in most of the time but when I am going to be ripping more then just a few cut I put in the my Freud LM74R, glass rips. http://www.freudtools.com/p-34-glue-line-rippingbr-nbsp.aspx

Good luck on your quest.

[scott spencer]

What saw do you have Mike?

[Bobby Knourek]

I recomend a 4+1 ''COMBINATION PLANER'' blade.
Works great crocss grain with its ATB top grind, and great when ripping with it +1 square top tooth with oversized gullet
for chip removal.

made is USA would also be a plus.

Bobby.

[Mike OMelia]

What saw do you have Mike?

Sorry, should have mentioned that. Jet Super Saw, 10" left tilt. Also looking for zero clearance inserts. This is the original version of the saw, hybrid, closed cabinet with straight legs (not a full cabinet).

Mike

PS: Since Bobby brought up his blade in this thread, anybody here have experience with it?

[Myk Rian]

My goto blade is a Freud Avanti 50 tooth thin kerf combo.
I make inserts out of 1/2" BB ply.

[scott spencer]

There's really no "best" single blade for all situations, but there are some really good all purpose blades that are pretty versatile....they will all have strengths and weaknesses, so try to pick which best suits your needs.

I think Bobby is refering to the 50T ATB/R combo blades. I've used several and have found several to be very good. Overall, I don't believe they cut as smoothly as the better 40T ATB and Hi-ATB blades that Bill mentioned, but I do find that they're pretty forgiving and are very easy to get good results with, and aren't prone to burning as much, which makes them a good choice for woods like cherry and maple that are more prone to burning than some other types. The Infinity Combomax (010-150) is the best I've tried of this type. It rips efficiently and cleanly, does well in most crosscuts, and is better in ply than the other 50T ATB/R combos I've tried. The DeWalt series 60 DW7640, Freud LU84 (LU83 thin kerf), and Tenryu RS25550 are also very good. All will provide glue ready cuts, which is typically as good as it needs to be. I tend to favor good 3/32" thin kerf blades for saws less than 3hp.

The 40T Hi-ATB blades like the Freud Fusion (full and thin kerf) and the Infinity Super General (full kerf only) have the best sheetgood performance, least tearout, and most highly polished rip edge performance of any 40T blades I know of. Those are super for cleanest possible cut from a general purpose type blade, but they're not perfect. Their drawback is that the very characteristic that gives the highly polished edge can also lead to more tendency for burning if the setup isn't just right, or with thick more burn-prone woods, so they're not as adept at thick ripping as the more standard ATB grinds like the 30T or 40T WWII, Ridge Carbide TS2000, or Tenryu Gold Medal. The Hi-ATB blades won't hold an edge quite as long. The new Forrest 48T WWII has similar strenghts as the Fusion and Super General. The 30T WWII is a very versatile blade that can be a real blessing if you cut a lot of thicker materials...it's nearly as clean as the 40T, crosscuts respectably well most of the time, but really shines with clean burn free rips. The DeWalt/Delta 7657 is the darkhorse of the 40T ATB group...Cripe Distributing has it for $17 + reasonable shipping...it's good enough for glue ready edges and cheap enough that you could still add another good blade.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I am sure you will get a few different replies............a Forrest II and it was just ok.........

One of those occasions where Bill and I aren't aligned....I have the Forrest WWII-40t..........me likey. In fact, it was the first blade I bought, and have loaded up on various versions of Forrest over the years. No experience with the Freud, so Bill has insight I don't, but I never had a reason to try something else.

[Jack Lemley]

One of those occasions where Bill and I aren't aligned....I have the Forrest WWII-40t..........me likey. In fact, it was the first blade I bought, and have loaded up on various versions of Forrest over the years. No experience with the Freud, so Bill has insight I don't, but I never had a reason to try something else.

+1 what Kent says. I started using WWII over 25 years ago and have always been pleased with the results. I purchased a Tenryu Gold Metal and a Freud rip blade in the last two years and frankly they are OK but my WWII stays on my machine 99% of the time. I have a Shopsmith PowerPro.

Jack

[Stan Mitchell]

I've been using a Ridge Carbide TS2000 that was purchased through Holbren - excellent all-around blade.

[Doug Colombo]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by Kent A Bathurst http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1666901#post1666901)
One of those occasions where Bill and I aren't aligned....I have the Forrest WWII-40t..........me likey. In fact, it was the first blade I bought, and have loaded up on various versions of Forrest over the years. No experience with the Freud, so Bill has insight I don't, but I never had a reason to try something else

+2 to Kent's post. I have also had a WWII for 15 years and rarely change the blade. I don't have experence with the other blades, but as Kent, have never had a reason or project that required any other blade.

[Maik Tobin]

I have both blades. A Forrest WWII and the Freud. Although I would say that when freshly sharpened, there seems to be little difference between them. They bot cut effortlessly and leave a very clean smooth end. Where they seem to differ, however, in my opinion is in holding the sharpness. It may be my imagination, but is seems to me that the Freud needs sharpening sooner than the WWII.

[Prashun Patel]

I've had good luck with the Avanti 50t combo blade.

Although, I gotta say that I have less problems with cross cutting than ripping. To that end, you might consider using a 40tpi general purpose blade which'll give you slightly more ripping power.

If you are working with a lot of 8/4 hardwood, though, you really should consider getting a dedicated rip blade. It'll save your wood and your combo blade from burn out. A good bargain rip blade is the Freud 24t that you can get from the BORG.

If all yr working is 4/4 or less, though, the combo or gp blades will do anything.

[Scott Schwake]

I have been using a Freud Premier Fusion like Bill, and recently bought a used WWII for a 2nd table saw. They both provide excellent cuts IMO and would recommend either one, but I was surprised how much more carbide there is on the Forrest.

[Brian Gumpper]

I've been using a Ridge Carbide TS2000 that was purchased through Holbren - excellent all-around blade.

I put a video of that one up on youtube. Not sure I can post the link but it's probably the only TS2000 video on there.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I have TWO Forrest WWII's that live in their boxes. I have a Delta 7657 that lives on my saw, except when cutting hardwood veneer plywood. Then I switch to a Leitz made 80 tooth HATB blade. Despite owning over thirty blades, these two are my "go to blades."