dial indicators

[Craig Ryder]

I am looking for a dial indicator to align my new (actually used) Unisaw, check out older, used drill presses for drift (my next purchase,) ...etc. I see prices all over the place ($10-200.) Also fairly exotic jigs, sleds for the DI. I think I'd just as soon make my own.

I'm thinking that I don't need to much. Grizzley has one for $20

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-Base-Dial-Indicator-Combo-President-s-Special/G9849

Is this too cheap? I don't want to buy something that is going to make the job harder. What are people using that is versatile and reliable?

Thanks,

[Callan Campbell]

Didn't look at your link yet, so I can't comment on the Grizzly dial indicator. One attachment or add-on to greatly increase a dial indicators usefulness is a magnetic mounting block. You can buy or make your own. The really simple versions are generally fitted with a screw or bolt in two different sections of the holder[ one horizontal and one vertical] to clamp the round rods that usually come with a DI. The more expensive ones will pivot/move to where you need with different joints that you also tighten to lock into place. A mag base that you can turn on or off is a bit nicer than a simple magnetic version that's "always" on, but is not generally as cheap as the simple bases either.

[jared herbert]

Hello I bought a used dial indicator on ebay, starrett for about 20$ if i remember correctly. If you have a little patience you can find a name brand on for a good price. I use mine for setting up my planer. there was a quite detailed article in an old FWW that was very good, included how to make up a couple of jigs to set the knives and the rollers. the jigs were good and since then I have figured out how to make other jigs using the dial indicator to set other tools. A little imagination can save a lot of money spent on commercial jigs. It is also good mental exercise to do a little problem solving, at least that is how I look at it. good luck jared

[glenn bradley]

That should do fine. I have a $10 indicator from Harbor Freight and it has done fine. I hardly ever use the stand as I have found attaching the dial indicator to various shop made fixtures specific to the machine I am adjusting works better for me. Grizzly has a pair of 1, 2, 3 blacks for about $17. I would get that too. In my shop I am only interested in differential measurements; from one point to another. This let's me get by with a lower quality unit. If I drop it or step on it, I can fork over another $10 for the next few years of very occasional use ;-)

[Bill Huber]

In the for what its worth department I really like the digital ones myself. They are much easier to read to me.

[Myk Rian]

Having spent 20+ years repairing indicators, I'll make a suggestion.
Used Starrett, Federal, Mitutoyo, B&S indicators are built tough. The gears are thick, unlike stamped sheet. They hold up very well in a factory or lab setting.
They are #1 on your want list.
The Grizzly, HF, and many other cheap indicators are in the stamped sheet category. This does not mean they are not accurate, but they will work good in a shop for setting machines.

If an indicator gets dropped, slammed to the end of travel, or otherwise shocked, the cheap ones can sustain gear damage, loose needles, bezels popped off, etc.

[pat warner]

Would buy the accuracy you need. E.g. if the drillpress works well at TIR = .002 then .0005 - .001" accuracy would do you.
Stuck at NASA? Then expect to pay in 2-400$ area.
Need no more than + or - .001?, then 20 bucks will do.

[Jay Jeffery]

The Harbor Freight model has worked fine for my needs. If I had a metal lathe then I'd get a Starret as it would see a lot of use. But for the once a year use, I'm happy with a cheapie. If you take good care of it, the HF model is just as accurate. It's when you use it hard that you need a good one.

[Terry Beadle]

I have one of the Grizzly dial indicators. I made a jig to use it to align my table saw and it works great. However, I would recommend you get a test indicator instead of a dial indicator. I will give you an easier time of setting up for measurements and does a better job of determining run out IMO.

[Brian Tymchak]

Last week I came across this kit from In-Line Industries while looking for something else. There is a "basic" kit as well. Maybe a little pricey but seems like you could do pretty much everything with it. Anyone have any experience with this kit?

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/a-line-it.html

[Bruce Page]

Craig, here’s a post I did a while ago on my method for setting up a TS using test or dial indicators. You might find some useful information in it:
Checking the TS using a Surface Gauge (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?32315-Checking-a-TS-using-a-Surface-Gauge-%28Lotsa-Pics%29)

[Russell Sansom]

For someone starting with a dial/test indicator there are two amenities that will help.
1) A base with a couple rods for "universal" set up in a hurry
2) A wide head ( say at least 3/16", better 1/4" ) accessory. By head I mean "tip."
The base saves your having to stop everything and manufacture a holder every time the urge to measure strikes you. It will also serve as a model to give you an idea of what your home-made fixture should look like.
The wide head is almost necessary for jointer knives, where the knife has to swipe/wiggle back and forth repeatedly to find the TDC. The head is faced away from you, occulted. A tiny head is just a pain under this circumstance.

I found that a used 1" Starrett kit which included a base, extension rods, and several tips works well for me.

[David Kumm]

In this day of fleabay and craigslist it is easy to find a great starrett type in the 50 buck range. If bothering a use a dial indicator, find a good one used. It is as much about consistency as accuracy. It will make you crazy if you repeat a measurement and get three different readings, even if they are off a few thousands. Dave

[Rudy Schneider]

I have the grizzly indicator with the base, it works ok. The base is nice and is easy to use. The indicator is also "ok" but I don't have a lot of faith it, I am going to find a Starrett or Mitutoyo as replacement.

[Dave Gaul]

I have the harbor freight setup, and it has worked just fine for me. Worked great when restoring an old jointer I got off of CL

[Bruce Wrenn]

I have the A-Line It Jr from In Line Industries. The wooden one Glen Bradley shows does the same thing, only about $50 cheaper. I have DI's from HF, and Enco. Paid less than $15 each for them. Enco sells a 22 piece point set which is handy to have.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Another happy HF user checking in.

It'll do fine for me until that sweet ebay deal on a Starrett comes along.

[Wayne Hendrix]

Last week I came across this kit from In-Line Industries while looking for something else. There is a "basic" kit as well. Maybe a little pricey but seems like you could do pretty much everything with it. Anyone have any experience with this kit?

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/a-line-it.html

I have the basic kit and it works really well. I have only used it for adjusting the blade parallel to the miter slot on my TS. That coupled with the Contractor Saw PALS from the same company allow me to dial in my TS in a matter of minutes.

[Ruhi Arslan]

Unless you are going to calibrate and certify other precision measuring devices with it, I don't think it matters as much which dial/digital indicator you choose as the base to carry and adjust it. I would spend my money on a good carriage system with both magnetic base and suitable for miter slot application.

[David Larsen]

I have been happy with the Oneway Multi-gauge.

[Neil Brooks]

Unless you are going to calibrate and certify other precision measuring devices with it, I don't think it matters as much which dial/digital indicator you choose as the base to carry and adjust it. I would spend my money on a good carriage system with both magnetic base and suitable for miter slot application.

I agree.

It's like a bathroom scale. Unless you care EXACTLY what you WEIGH, then -- provided it's consistent -- it WILL tell you if you've gained or lost ;)

I use the HF Dial Indicator, and it HAS been perfect for me. It WILL tell me where I'm high or low, and -- even if it's not EXACTLY right (may or may not be), it HAS allowed me to achieve "flat" (or whatever the metric is), when I need it to :)

[Sean Nagle]

Unless you are going to calibrate and certify other precision measuring devices with it, I don't think it matters as much which dial/digital indicator you choose as the base to carry and adjust it. I would spend my money on a good carriage system with both magnetic base and suitable for miter slot application.

I agree, buy a Tablesaw Aligner Jr. or similar. When setting and adjusting machinery the dial indicator is used primarily for looking for deviations from a single position. The overall accuracy of the dial indicator is not important.

[Tom Esh]

+1 on the digital type. I've never been a huge fan of measuring tools that require batteries, but with a dial indicator virtually all measurements are relative and the ability to zero it with a quick button press is really handy. I have an inexpensive one from HF which works fine for my shop needs.

[Russell Sansom]

I find repeatable precision and reliable readings are important for setting a jointer and jointer knives. Every few seconds it has to move to a new spot and take a new reading. It also has to slide around to find TDC, so a magnetic base is a nuissance in this case. I need to get the same readout EVERY time I take the same reading even if I've moved it and then returned it to this place for the 2nd reading ... which is exactly what you have to do in setting jointer knives.

[David Larsen]

I find repeatable precision and reliable readings are important for setting a jointer and jointer knives. Every few seconds it has to move to a new spot and take a new reading. It also has to slide around to find TDC, so a magnetic base is a nuissance in this case. I need to get the same readout EVERY time I take the same reading even if I've moved it and then returned it to this place for the 2nd reading ... which is exactly what you have to do in setting jointer knives.

The Oneway Multi-gauge works perfect for this application.

[Mark Burnette]

As someone who calibrates dimensional instruments I can tell you a HF dial indicator will be just as accurate as a high-dollar one. The better ones will be smoother in operation but not more accurate. So far the only difference I've seen in cheap vs expensive digital indicators is display size, clarity and battery life.

When you go shopping make sure to get one with a metal lug on the back. That's one spot a little error can creep in to your measurements. As mentioned above quality holders & fixturing will have a much greater impact on accuracy & usefulness than the indicator itself.

[Eddie Darby]

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67042&cat=51&ap=2

Nice little rig for setting up a table saw blade parallel to the miter track.

[Ruhi Arslan]

For the price Lee Valley one looks like a steal. My reservation would be with that setup is that you won't be able to slide it back and forth and you have to manipulate the caliper by hand. It would not be too difficult to deflect the blade which would defeat the purpose.My favorite was the Woodpeckers Saw Gauge (http://www.woodpeck.com/sawgauge.html) which I finally bought one recently after trying one at the NJ show. I used to think my table was well adjusted till then.

[John P. Smith]

As someone who calibrates dimensional instruments I can tell you a HF dial indicator will be just as accurate as a high-dollar one. The better ones will be smoother in operation but not more accurate. So far the only difference I've seen in cheap vs expensive digital indicators is display size, clarity and battery life.

And if a HF indicator is not smooth.... fix it! I bought one that had a rough spot right about mid-point of the travel. I opened it up and removed a brass filing from the rack on the plunger, now it is smooth as silk, full travel. Typical HF QC (or lack thereof), but you get what you pay for, and move on.

[mickey cassiba]

I've got a couple of Starrets, one is a 1" travel, .001 read. the other is a 1/2" travel, .0001 read. I also have two Interapids the test indicator style, but for general shop use, I use my generic(don't recall the brand) 1" D.I. As mentioned above, accuracy, is one thing, repeatability, is something else altogether. Don't care for the battery digitals at all, but, I'm kind of old school. Batteries will let you down at the worst possible time...when you are really need it.
Just my two and a half cents(inflation)