Which one of these two starrettt squares would you choose

[Brian Deakin]

I would like some advice on which of these two starrett squares makes the best purchase

Starrett toolmakers stainless steel square with no graduations or a 13 series double square with sliding blade and graduations

Further which length of blade is the better choice 4 or 6 inches

Comments please

regards Brian

[pat warner]

This is an application sensitive choice , has little to do with which is best. Study well, you may get several over time,

[Rick Lizek]

Make sure the finish is satin or it's hard to read. It's a personal thing on the 4 or 6". Do you need big or small?
some folks like to carry it around and the 4" is better. Going with another's choice may not be best for you. It all depends on what you want it for. Graduations makes it even more useful than no graduations but I use it as a marking gauge at times or a machinists rule.
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/17018/product_name/Double+Square+%28Starrett%29

[Bruce Page]

The double square is more versatile, the toolmakers square more precise. Which one to get, depends on your needs.
In this case bigger is better.

[Neil Brooks]

One thing to think about, as you look at this decision: mock-ups.

So ... us woodworkers might make a mockup of a piece, out of SPF, before we build the real thing out of expensive hardwood.

You could buy a version or two from a place like Harbor Freight, to test -- for instance -- whether the 4" or 6" works better for you, and then ... after some time ... figure out which is the Starrett for you.

I happen to LOVE my 4" Starrett, but -- yep -- wouldn't mind a 6" version, now :)

[Keith Westfall]

I agree that it is a very personal choice, but I love my 4" one - but then I haven't tried a 6" one. :cool:

[Jason Coen]

Doesn't matter.

Whichever one you get now, you'll wind up getting the other at some point in the future. Guess how I know?

[Larry Edgerton]

I have every type of square imaginable in my shop and the one that gets used the most is a Mitatoyo 12" sliding combination. As far as accuracy, really, I know that square is more accurate than me. I use the centerfinder and angle head quite often as well.

I do a lot of large projects, but still, I like a bigger square than most, so I would have to say 6" would be my choice, if I cant have twelve.

[David Weaver]

I would buy one "master square" that is a fixed engineer's square, and then buy lower priced or used squares after that.

Just take your master square with you when you buy them.

My favorite squares are a 24" starrett engineer's square (not a misprint) that I got for $19 (but it did cost $30 to ship) and an english moore and wright engineer's square that I got for $16. I have a buddy who had just bought a starrett certified (or whatever they call it) engineer's square as a master square, so I could verify that those two that I have are dead on. I can use them to check cheaper squares and avoid bum squares.

The way I see it, there are premium squares and not premium squares. There really isn't a lot of in-between. Same buddy with the starrett square had an anodized (and expensive) premium price woodworker's fixed engineer's style square (i won't say the brand) and while it's close to dead on with the underside, it is two thousandths off over 6" on the outside, and it is claimed to be a "certified" square. That's why I'd skip the higher priced squares that have no accuracy guarantee - if you have to check them with a true square, anyway, then there's no reason not to just get squares made in india or old combo squares made by B&S, mitutoyo, etc and verify them for a lot less money.

[Russell Sansom]

After using a 6" Starrett for several years, the 4" feels small and inadequate. However, I use the 4" for the repeated task of checking square while grinding and sharpening, where the 6" won't fit.

[Brian Deakin]

Thank you to everyone for taking the time to reply .I have decided to g for the metric 150mm variant

regards Brain