Which table saw safety moves??

[Jerry Olexa]

Made a resolution for 2005 to improve the safety of my 9 yr old Delta contractor TS. The several recent posts about "kickback" didn't hurt and gave me a certain amount of extra healthy "fear". My quandry is which safety features to add and which are BEST? I've gathered that both "Board Buddies" and "GrrRippers" are effective. Also, splitters help and the B'Myer anti-kickback/splitter is a good one. Do I need all 3 or which ones would serve best? I will not be adding overhead blade cover/DC at this time.Saw is mounted on a Delta mobile base and has top extension and upgraded fence. I've been sawing over 30 years w no protection with only 2 kickbacks but its power is a bit scary. Thanks in advance for your advice. Hurry before I injure myself :) :confused: :D

[Jim Becker]

I believe that a splitter is a non-optional item for any through cut...and one that easily removes and reinstalls will insure you use it. GrrRipper is a nice item for the things it's good at...I don't own it, but am impressed with it. At the least, you should make an assortment of push blocks that suit the type of work you do. "Push sticks" are scary to me and I never use them. (These are the longer stick-like things...too easy to introduce problem forces on the material, IMHO)

"Board Buddies" or similar have their applications, but I only use what I have when working with sheet goods, which is a rare thing for me. If you have a fence which tends to lift, they are less effective.

As to the overarm guard, I like mine but don't use it all that often. It does get used for cutting sheet goods and other wider material when through cutting to reduce or eliminate the stuff coming off the top of the blade. But it's not usable, for the most part, when the cut is narrow and you want or need to use a push block or "GrrRipper".

[Chris Padilla]

I think the splitter is the easiest and cheapest safety device you can use to prevent kickback. Preventing kickback alone will help alleviate a whole assortment of injuries. I like the Microjig one: cheap and it works great.

I'm not big on the overhead guards...I think they would just annoy me too much but they could help on DC for sure.

[Ted Shrader]

Jerry -

All of those options are good. You will end up using different combinations for different cuts.

Don't dismiss the overarm guard yet. Lots of times kick back involves the rear of the board raising up then being thrown forward. An overarm guard like the Brett Guard will keep the board down. It also has an integral pall.

Ted

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks, guys. So far, it sounds like the splitter is the priority item . The others are optional and depending on your type of cuts. I usually am building w solid stock (1" or better)and occassional sheet goods, panels, etc. I do use my cross cut sled a lot!

<TABLE class=tborder cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 139734" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>Chris Padilla</TD><TD class=alt2> I like the Microjig one: cheap and it works great</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
On the splitter, where can I get a Microjig, Chris? Is it quickly removable?
The B'Myers are a bit pricey. Based on this thread I'll get a splitter and maybe one of the other devices (GrrRipper, etc) Thanks. Your advice means a lot to me..

[Chris Padilla]

Jerry,

You'll go 'duh' when you see this:

http://www.microjig.com/

:D :D

[Tim Morton]

Jerry,

i also started thinking about aftermarket splitters recently. I have a delta contractor saw and I hate the splitter/blade guard combo that comes with it.
Doing some research I found that you can buy a splitter directly from delta that looks nice and gets good reviews for $31 bucks. Mine should arrive any day and I will let you know how it compares to the stock splitter.
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/reviews/splitter.shtml

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks, Jim, Chris, Ted and Tim. All good helpful info.

Chris: You're right (Duh) didn't know Microjig was GrrrRipper. Good website!

Tim: Great option. Didn't know Delta had a good quality, reasonable splitter for my saw. LMK how u like yours.

Leaning now toward Delta splitter and a GrrrRipper. On the right track??:confused: Amazing I survived all these years w/o safety devices.Thanks.:)

[John Miliunas]

Jerry, if I'm not mistaken, the Micro-Jig will need to be installed on a ZC insert, be it homemade or commercial. When I had my Delta contractor, I made both, the insert and the splitter. Real simple, actually. I just threw in my $00.02 a while back on this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15929&highlight=splitter , which should give you an idea of it. Regardless of what you choose, I think a splitter is a very, very high priority item to have!:cool:

[Hal Flynt]

I'm in agreement with all the above.

I would add that I saw the Micro Jig Splitter sale coupon in the Woodworking Shows coupon book and I intend to pick one up in Atlanta this weekend. (Can't remember exactly but under $20.)

This link ( I believe it meets the rules) is to the DIY page with David Marks kick switch that he made for his table saw. I think this is a "gonna do real soon" project for me.

http://www.diynet.com/diy/ww_shop/article/0,2049,DIY_14445_2278589,00.html

[Mike Cutler]

Hal. I'm certainly in no way qualified to criticize David Marks as a wood worker, and can admire and respect his creativity and ingenuity.While that kick switch may be cheap and quick to build, there is a much better device commercially available. Just about any electrical supply house can supply you with a DPDT foot operated disconnect switch to replace the hand operated switch on your saw. you can position it on the floor any where that is comfortable. It can also be configured to allow the use of both the hand and foot switch.It may also meet the requirements for a manual disconnect in abscense of line of sight requirements, but I don't know for sure. Maybe my fellow nutmegger, Mr Russell can tell us for certain.
As for the original thread question. Splitter First! They are too cheap to not have one on a saw, in some form. I personally use alot of push sticks, but have been since 1970, doesn't make it right or safe, just comfortable. I admire the grippers though, and I may just get a pair.Too many people have too many good things to say about them to not have a pair.
More than .02 worth, and I apologize for deviating from the original question for a bit.

[Ron Bass]

Just wondering what the problem is with the standard splitter that comes on the delta contractors saw. I rebuilt a 1975 delta last year and when I contacted Delta they told me the removable splitter would not fit my saw. I had them ship me the standard splitter and I like it fine. I might add that I don't take it off much and I use the splitter alone not with the blade guard that is standard. I replaced that with an overarm blade quard off of a unisaw. Delta assured me that I could not get that to work either but I did with a simple bracket to mount it to.They also told me that the fence off of a new contractors saw by delta would not fit either but two holes lined up and I only had to drill two more and everything went right on and works perfect.Lots of parts available on internet auctions , just takes some fitting to get some to work. My saw isn't original but I sure like it fine.

[Mike Holbrook]

I was at the Atlanta Show today too. My newly assembled GRR-Ripper is sitting right here on my desk. I picked up the Micro splitter, Grip-Tite magnetic featherboard and a zero clearance insert as well. I will probably add a second GRR-Ripper and a second Grip-Tite before long.

My friend bought the entire Grip-Tite system which gives you a tall, steel plate to install against your existing rip fence. I was not sure I wanted to drill my brand new fence and slap that uugly thing on it so I could attach magnets to it. Has anyone else used the entire Grip-Tite system.? I am interested in how well the steel fence plate works.