Link Belt problem - is it worth replacing

[Jesse Tutterrow]

about 6 years ago, Woodcraft sold me a linked belt for my table saw.

Today I turned the table saw on and the belt broke. Looking at it, one side is showing massive amounts of wear and one of the links broke. Here are pictures of it (sorry about quality, my cell phone camera is not the best):

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At 8 to 9 dollars per foot and 2 1/2 feet needed (about) I am asking the question of value for the money.

Does anyone know why this belt wore this way? The motor and blade would turn by hand.

What do you think should I spend around 25 dollars for a replacement, continue using this one, or switch back to a automotive belt?

This is on my Delta Contractor's saw.

Thanks in Advance
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.png

[Chris Nolin]

My first thought is that the pulleys have been out of alignment with each other the whole time, causing uneven wear that finally resulted in a breakage.

[Al Bacon]

Yes I agree with Chris. Put a straight edge across the pulleys and make sure the are in the same plane. That belt should run very smoothly when they are.

Al

[Jesse Tutterrow]

I just put a straight edge across the pulleys and used a flashlight to look for a gap. I could not see any.

What about replacing the belt - use this one, buy another $$, or switch back to an automotive belt?

[Neil Brooks]

What about replacing the belt - use this one, buy another $$, or switch back to an automotive belt?

My first thought would be: if the link belt DID what you were hoping it WOULD do, when you first installed it, then ... I'd get another one.

But ... if you don't feel it helped with vibration, or anything else, and/or if you're worried that IT somehow was the reason for its own untimely demise, then ... a notched (http://eec.engr.oregonstate.edu/downloads/V%20Belt%20411.pdf) rubber (automotive style) might be a good alternative.

You're SURE the pulleys are co-planar ??

Just sayin .... :)

[Larry Edgerton]

To check your pulleys first measure from the center of the groove to the outside of the pulley on both and factor in the difference when you check allignment from the outside. It is the center of the pulleys that need to be lined up and some pulleys will have a thicker outside flange.

Six years is not terrible on a belt, depends on use of course. I like link belts, but a good quality machine belt does just fine too. Do not buy an automotive belt, especially if you have a contractors saw with the motor hanging on the belt. Get a machinery belt. Automotive belts are not made to as tight as tolerances as machine belts. There is often a hump in an auto belt that will cause the motor on a contractors saw to bounce up and down, a vibration that you do not want.

Larry

[David Kumm]

The belt was running with the tabs? I'm probably the only one who ran one backwards, but they work with the tabs pointed against the direction- for a while. Dave

[mickey cassiba]

When checking alignment, I was taught to use a drill rod of appropriate diameter in the groove, and not the outside or even inside edge of the pulley. Most pulleys being cast, can have varying wall thicknesses. Even machined pulleys can be different. That said, I agree with Larry...the belt may have run it's course, and automotive belts suck for machine use. I like the link belts really well, but I have also set up a lot of machines with poly-v belts...higher initial cost for the pulleys, but belt replacement is not near as high as links. And you replace more belts than pulleys IME.

[glenn bradley]

The wear certainly indicates that something is potentially wrong. Whatever it is the belt didn't wear that way "normally". Six years is a long time for a small problem to eventually wear something out. I got great improvement out of my saw when I changed to a link belt. If your improvement was not worth about four dollars a year, try something else. I would replace the belt.

[Chip Lindley]

Definately something wrong somewhere! Also check your pulleys for out-of-round condition, and wobble. Also make sure the belt is not rubbing on something; pulley cover or table insert. No use installing a new link belt unless you find and correct the deficiency.

I operated a Rockwell model 10 CS for quite a few years with the Fenner Power Twist belt with great results. It was well worth any cost because it smoothed out vibration and shudder. The belt was as good the day I sold it as when I installed it.

(There are arrows on the back of the belt links pointing in the direction of rotation)

[Jeff Duncan]

I'm thiking it is possible it wore out....but unlikely. I had a pair on my Uni for about 10 years and when I sold it they were still in great shape working daily for that period. Actually I should say overworking because I put some serious material through that machine. Much of it pushing the machine to the limits of it's capability.
Of course there could be different manufacturers of these belts? If that's the case maybe yours were lesser quality? I do think there's likely something amiss with the situation though to cause them to wear that fast.

good luck,
Jeff

[Bruce Wrenn]

Is your motor solid mount, or cradle mount. Cradle mount has rubber bushing at each end. These can allow motor to shift under load and sheaves come out of alignment. Make sure shaft of motor is parallel with arbor shaft. HF will sell you a "green link belt" (made in the USA) for about $25. Most likely you can get your hands on a 20% off coupon, which brings your cost down.

[Craig Coney]

I agree with the others who suggest that something looks out of alignment. Another thing to check is it the right width of link belt for your pulleys? They offer a 3/8" and 1/2". I've had them on my cabinet saw for 9 years, still going strong.