L-N Chisel Handle (Hornbeam) protection

[Jim Neeley]

Hi. My name is Jim. I am a tool addict. :)

OK.. I've just gone crazy and jumped full-tilt into preparing to try my hand at dovetails. I've just received my first wave of good neander-tools and more are on in transit or backorder.

I've received Cosman's DVDs, about a dozen L-N chisels, a Sharp Skate, some of the finer Shapton stones (to supplement my existing WS3000 for doing the heavy work). The obvious plan is to hone the chisel blades. The not-so-obvious is whether or not to put anything on the hornbeam to protect them physically (OK, and yes, aesthetically) prior to putting them to use.

I picked up a small set of A-2 for general use and another of O-1 to low-angle bevel, primarily for paring. The A-2's come with a 30* bevel but the instructions recommend a higher (about 35*) secondary bevel. The O-1's come with a 25* bevel but the instructions indicate they hold up at 25* "or less".

What bevel angle experience do others have here for these two steels? I figure it'll give me a good starting point.

I have some other chisels for heavy beating, so these will be reserved for light work (dovetails) and paring.

Jim

[Dave Anderson NH]

Jim, I have used the L-N with hornbeam handles for several years without any problems. I do use a mallet on them and there are no signs of anything other than slight dent marks on the ends. They show no splitting, mushrooming, or any other difficulties.

[Joe McMahon]

Jim, I have pounded on mine with a mallet and there are no problems at all.

Joe

[Ed Looney]

Jim
I recommend getting Rob Cosmans DVD on Bench Chisels. He will take you through sharpening and give you examples on what chisel angles work on what types of wood (hard or soft). It is well worth the cost.

PS Don't mess with the handles on your LN chisels. All they need to do their job is your hand to direct them, whether it be on the stone to keep them sharp or working the wood.

Ed

[Casey Gooding]

I have had my Lie-Nielsen chisels for several years and have had no problems with the handles. There is no discoloration or staining and no marks on them. I use the Blue Spruce Toolworks mallet with them. It's a great pairing.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Sorry - my approach to tools is they are tools. The artwork is on shelves and walls upstairs - that space is under the close control and oversight by sosmeone else..:D

I just whack 'em. I almost always use a wood mallet on my LN mortise chisels. Sometimes, I use the steel japanese chisel hammer I already have on the bench. Yes - dents + dings in the handles. They still work just fine.

[John Coloccia]

I'm with Kent. Incidentally, I finally just mixed up some 5 minute epoxy and glued the stupid handles in. I don't like the "feature" where the chisel sometimes falls to the floor if you pick it up by the handle.

[Kent A Bathurst]

John - that really started to aggravatae me also - never went to the concrete floor, but twice a near-miss - hit right at the edge of the back bench before I could turn them over to "bump" the handles tight.

I took the direct approach. I have CA in thin, med, thick. Thick seemed appropriate as gap filler - slobbered a bit near the pointy end of the handles, and whacked 'em in. Not like I plan on replacing them with unobtanium wood harvested by a druid priest during solstice ceremonies from a secret mountaintop in remote sumatra or anything......... but, that's just me. YMMV.

BTW - welcome back - I'd been wondering where you went for a couple weeks, then I saw the shop org clip - and that looked to me like easily a 2-week project, based on "before" photos + clips. Get that junk off the stairs yet? :p

[Zach England]

I do not have a problem with the handles coming off any of my LN chisels. On some of them I could not get the handles off if I wanted to. Maybe it is because I live in a dry climate?

I had an idea for good chisel handle "protection" but did not post the picture because I figured it would get deleted promptly with another of those "inappropriate content" messages from one of the mods.

[Jim Neeley]

Thanks for the feedback here, guys... I'll check out Rob's CD...

Casey... I have the BS 14oz mallet on order myself... I'm glad to know you like yours.

It's good to know the chisels are ready to rock right out of the gate. I figured I'd better ask before I wrap my big ol' sweaty paws around them since finishing them later might be neigh on 'mpossible.

John.. I've been trying to hold off coming to that conclusion too on that removeable handle "feature". I suppose the ability to change them in the future is an advantage but I'm waiting to see how well they stay on... especially in this (generally fairly) dry Alaskan air.

One positive point I have found... When I was playing with the chisels and honing jig last night I noticed that the balance was much better with the handle removed. What I don't yet know is if removing the handles regularly will make it grow ever more sloppy over time. They pop out too easy for my preference as it is... especially with a concrete shop floor.

Jim

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I recently saw a Lie Nielsen video where they recommended using hair spray to hold the handles in place. Unexpected.

[Jim Neeley]

At one time hair spray was essentially shellac... if it is still so it might just make sense.. You know, a relatively weak glue.. hmmm..

If you later wanted to replace the handle alcohol should then redissolve the shellac?

[Ed Looney]

LN chisel handles require tough love. You have to whack them quite often to keep them in line.

Ed

[David Keller NC]

Guys - some of you might find this interesting from an historical point of view. Many infill planes where the metal totally encloses the wood, such as shoulder planes, chariot planes & bullnose planes, have nothing more than glue holding the infill in place. Hot hide glue was used, which seems counter-intuitive in that hide glue isn't designed for nor does it stick well to metal. Nevertheless, it's an excellent choice in this application, since removal of the wood is fairly easy.

I've used this on my L-N chisels as well as several antique socket-types where I needed to replace the handles - it works very well, and is easily reversible in case an errant mallet whack chips the wood.

[John Sanford]

You can probably use lacquer, shellac, Future floor wax (it's an acrylic), hairspray, white glue, 3M Spraymount, or superglue to keep the handles in while still allowing them to be replaced later without major surguery. Superglue can be reversed using a debonder, white glue softens and dissolves in hot water, lacquer and shellac have solvents, hairspray is one of the three that precedes it, and Spraymount is basically the same adhesive used on Post-It notes.

I'd really like to get me a set of nice chisels.