Transitional Plane

[David Myers]

My father called last week to say he picked up something for me at an estate sale. Below is my newest edition to the workshop:
187078
I'm not sure of the manufacturer but the iron has a circular logo with "Ohio" visible along the lower left perimeter so maybe Ohio Tool Co. The iron itself is tapered:
187079
Any information from the inhabitants of the cave by the creek would be appreciated, i.e. age estimate, tuning tips, worth etc.

Btw, the cost was $10. Dad did well especially considering his hobby is old cars, not woodworking.

[Chris Griggs]

Nice one. I'd like to get my hands a transitional at some point. Seems like they'd be really nice for fore/jack/scrub work. Let us know how it works once its up and running.

[john brenton]

Stanley and Sargent are the most common transitional planes, but I believe Ohio Tool Co. made them as well, so that's probably what it is.

You can find out more about them here: http://www.supertool.com/stanleybg/stan4.htm

I've tuned up quite a few and as long as all the moving parts are good they are fairly easy to get going. You'll need to flatten the sole, probably inlay the mouth, clean up the metal parts etc. You may need to do some clever work if any of the coarse wood screws that hold the body and/or tote no longer fits well due to wood movement. The hardest part can be getting all the old enamel out of the pretty cast design on the lever cap. I can't stop until every last speck of old enamel is gone...I get OCD on that kind of stuff.

You can soak all of the metal parts in Evaporust, then peel off the remaining enamel. For re-enameling, I've used regular old black spray enamel and it's worked great. Too many layers can affect the fit of the lever cap though. Just very light passes and it does a great job and doesn't hurt any of the moving parts. It takes a while to cure, and touching it before it's fully cured will definitely leave a mark. Put some masking tape over the parts that currently show no signs of enamel.

You may find cracks when you take the metal part off of the beech base, but a good soak in BLO after you flatten the bottom should cure it. Then paste wax the whole timber before reassembly.

I like transition planes, but none have worked their way into my keeper pile.

[Zach Dillinger]

My very first hand plane was a Union transitional jack plane. I spent hours with it, refinishing the sole, cleaning the metal parts, sharpening it. I still own it. I don't use it nearly as much as I did, preferring my Mathieson woodie for jack plane duties, but I still take it out of the tool box every now and then, just to take a few shavings and think about how far I've come with hand tools.

[Andrae Covington]

I use an 18" transitional as a fore plane (Stanley #28). Since yours is jack/fore sized and so that's probably the type of rough work you'd want to use it for, I wouldn't obsess too much about flattening the sole or tightening the mouth... unless you want to.:D I took mine apart when I got it and soaked the metal parts in evaporust, but left the body alone.

Ohio Tool Company began at least in 1851, perhaps earlier, and lasted until 1920. The Stanley transitional planes were first made in 1870. Ohio Tool and others probably had to wait until the patents expired before making their own versions.

[Jim Koepke]

It is not real clear, but the lateral lever seems to have a twist on the end which is how Union and Ohio tool formed the end on theirs.

jtk

[Dan Andrews]

David's dad got a typically good deal on that nice old Ohio. I have one transitional. A Stanley #27. It works great, and I realy like the feel of wood sliding over wood. Silky smooth. I think some people who are getting started in using hand planes but don't have deep pockets should consider these transitional planes. You could accumulate quite a set bench planes for $100. The refurbishing of planes helps one understand the mechanics of a plane. Once a person has refubished a few planes, used them for a while and had lots of practice in sharpening and adjusting them, they will make better choices when it comes time to buy and maintain that high end plane (If indeed they want the high end plane at all).

[David Myers]

Thanks for the replies. Sharp eye, Jim. There is indeed a twist in the lateral adjustment lever. I meant to include that in the original description.

I'm looking forward to getting it tuned up and putting it to work.