Having a problem with my throat opening on a smoother plane.

[keith micinski]

I just refurbished this Millers Falls Number 900 and after getting it all together I am having a few issues. I wasn't sure where to put the frog at so I started off putting back where it was when I got it. I also am still not completely sure where to set the chip breaker on a smoother plane. I read that an 8th to a 16th back would be good for the chip breaker. I have moved the frog and the chip breaker all over the place and can not get the shavings to come out of the mouth at all. I am taking the thinnest shaving I can get and it still ends up plugging up the mouth. Any ideas?

[Paul Incognito]

Is the chip breaker tuned to the blade? Hold the blade/chip breaker up to a light, if you can see light between the two, that's your problem. Shavings will get lodged in that gap and the plane will stop cutting. There's a thread in the FAQ that Jim K wrote an fettling that covers how to tune the cihip breaker.
I generally set my chip breaker about 1/16" back on a smoother.

Paul

[keith micinski]

Well I thought that might be that also but I double checked and the chip breaker seems like it is seated really well on the blade. I am using the scary sharp method to sharpen the blade so while I am sure things could be sharper I am able to shave the back of my arm with the blade when I am done. I also used this method to tune the chip breaker up and I just don't see how chips could be getting caught there. I have a #6 that I was able to tune up and make work really well so this hads been a little discouraging to say the least.

[Paul Incognito]

Looking at the pics it looks like there's enough of an opening at the mouth. If your chip breaker and blade are tight, I'm not sure where to go fom there. Maybe waxing the front of the mouth and lever cap might help? I'm sure someone with more experience than me will chime in soon.

Paul

[keith micinski]

I agree it does seem like there is plenty of room in the front of the mouth. I did just read Jim K's post and I am thinking, maybe after lapping the sole ,the front lip of the mouth may be a little sharp so I am going to try and lightly clean it up. I also appear to have my frog set in the right position for having the largest mouth opening so I am going to have to go back to the drawing board.

[Mark Baldwin III]

Have you tried moving the chipbreaker back? Depending on how much pressure the lever cap is exerting, it could be causing the edge of the chipbreaker to move down to the very edge of the iron.

[keith micinski]

OK so I am much more excited about the Neander experience now. I took it back apart and I Moved the chip breaker back to 3/32 away from the edge. I cleaned up the front of the mouth a little to but I don't know if that did anything. I also decided trying to learn and set it up on rock maple probably wasn't the best idea so I switched to walnut. I was able to make this thing cut really nice thin strips. Man did it feel good. I hate to ask this but I was under the impression that I would use this smoother plane to finish pieces and I wouldn't have to sand after wards. It left a really nice finish over most of the board but in some spots I could feel the plane blade marks if I ran my fingers across them. I couldn't really see them but they were there. Is there a way to avoid this or am I doing something wrong with my technique?

[David Weaver]

camber the iron / relieve the corners so that they are slightly higher vs. the middle of the blade than the depth of cut.

There are other things to do, but that one requires the least skill while planing and doesn't leave any dull surface on the board anywhere, nor any scratches.

[keith micinski]

Well I kind of thought that might be the answer but it seems like you still are going to have high and low spots this way. I guess the big question is how do you sharpen the blade then. I have just learned how to sharpen with the scary sharp method and have gotten pretty good at it but I am guessing to camber the ends I am going to have put the honing jig down and go free hand. I am not sure if I am good enough for that yet.

[Jim Koepke]

From looking at the first pictures it looks like you may have been cutting on just one side of the blade.

This post may be of help:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes

As far as the marks being left by the plane, correcting them depends on whether they are tracks, then cambering the blade will help. If they are caused by nicks in the blade, then only more sharpening of the blade will eventually get rid of those.

Here is my alternate method of putting a camber on a blade by applying a few quick swipes on the back of a blade.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?158373-My-Camber-Blade-Round-Tuit-Finally-Came&highlight=camber+round+tuit

You may also want to check the Lie-Nielsen videos on Youtube to see another way to set up your planes.

jtk

[keith micinski]

Well it looks like I have the mouth issue straightened out so I guess I will try and work on the cambering of the blade.

[jerry nazard]

Keith,

From the first picture in your original post, it looks like the blade is upside down. This could also be my tired eyes playing games with my brain.... but, if that is the case, make sure the bevel is facing down, and position the chipbreaker 1/16 or less from the end of the blade.

Best to you!

-Jerry

[keith micinski]

Well I tried my hand at rounding the corners on the smoother and it turned out great. I just left it in my honing jig and pressed down on the outside of the blade and pulled it back in a crescent motion. The board ended up perfectly flat and smooth. I will get a lot more enjoyment out of finishing pieces off this way rather then sanding. One problem I see is that I like to work with a lot of figured woods and now I am going to talk myself in to needing a Lie Nielsen with different high angle frogs and what not. This hand plane business is more addictive then crack and should be outlawed. I am already looking for a worksharp which I told myself "No matter what you are not getting a sharpening system." So much for that declaration.

[Johnny Kleso]

First the wood has a grain and you want to plane it from the correct direction..
You want the grain rising up in front the blade not falling away...

You need a super sharp blade tis will come in time...

I set my cap iron (chip breaker) at 1/32" if I can, Gives a nice rolled chip.. If it bumping the mouth in cthe cutting position go bigger, 3/32" should work for sure but finish is more rough imho...

I set my frogs face dead even with the back side of the mouth..
You need a small steel ruler or razor blade to check it is dead in line with each other..
Once set you will never have to move it and takes 10-15 mins to do correctly...
You have to snug the screws just right and lightly use a plastic/wood hammer to tap frog into position..

[Jim Koepke]

Keith,

Good to see using a plane is coming together for you. I would suggest you might want to consider making some wooden covers for you vise jaws.

It is just too easy to hit them with your plane when cutting a chamfer or other planing maneuver. Such a hit could be catastrophic to a plane.

jtk

[keith micinski]

Well that is my regular vice I was just using this once. I think my next big project is going to be making a table saw outfeed/workbench in which I plan to incorporate at a minimum a tail vise and a face vice. I do most of my work in the winter and since I am going back to work Monday I am thinking my woodworking projects are going to be put on hold. Thats why I wanted to get these planes all squared away so that if I do need them for a small project I can just grab them and go. I really couldn't believe how nice and smooth the face of the board came out once I rounded the corners of the iron. I think this is going to help my finishing because I hated sanding so much some time I would cut corners on it a little if I am honest with myself.

[Jim Koepke]

I really couldn't believe how nice and smooth the face of the board came out once I rounded the corners of the iron. I think this is going to help my finishing because I hated sanding so much some time I would cut corners on it a little if I am honest with myself.

About the only time I use sandpaper anymore is on the lathe. I do have a few sheets that have been laying around for ever that sometimes get used on surfaces that are a little rough from rasp work.

jtk

[David Dalzell]

You could buy more planes, and more, and more; but there is an alternative. Buy a good blade+chipbreaker and make a Krenov style plane. You can make the blade angle anything you want. They are fun to make, cheaper than buying a good iron plane, and they are my favorite users.

[Johnny Kleso]

This hand plane business is more addictive then crack and should be outlawed.

I think it's the sound the plane makes when it cuts a shaving.. shick shick shick :)

[keith micinski]

David please don't encourage more hand plane addiction. If I start making planes then the next step would be to start making my own irons which means I would have to get a system to temper the blades and if I am doing that I may as well just get a forge while I am at it. It will never end and I am spiraling out of control as it is.