Question on Wipe on Poly application

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Do you sand your wipe on poly between coats? I am experimenting with it and find it scratches with 400 and even 600 grit and the scratches remain visible through the next coat. Any thoughts as to the error in my schedule.
faust

[bob svoboda]

Others with more experience will certainly chime in, but my experience was the same as yours with 600 grit. I now only buff with 0000 steel wool between coats. I apply very thin coats to keep from getting runs in the finish.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Faust - I usually put on 3 coats or so before I do my first light sanding and then, just enough to knock off any dust or small bumps. After that, I lightly sand every 3 to 5 coats. You are correct in that any sandpaper will leave scratch marks - but that is why you buff it after it cures.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I thought my process must be suspect. I was treating it like spray lacquer. I will do as you both advised. Right now, I have a finished bowl I must strip down to bare wood and do again. Of course it would be walnut feather instead of plain old maple.

[Darren Jamieson]

I too use steal wool between coats but you'll have to be carful to get all the shavings off before recoating and make sure it is good and dry between coats. I am no expert but it seems to work for me.

[Roger Wilson]

If 600 grit is too coarse, try 1200 or 1500 sand paper. Also experiment with a piece of brown paper bag, that should be more than 1200 grit.

[David E Keller]

I use a scotch brute pad that I got from Vince. I think it's supposed to be the equivalent of 800. Works well for me.

[Bruce Sanders]

Basically the only finish i use on my pens, usually 20 coats.

I sand and polish through all the grades up to 12000mm, in between each grade I sand or polish lengthwise. After 12000mm I use WOP and then polish with 0000 steel wool lightly lengthwise between each coat. After 20 coats I leave for 24 hours and then wet polish with 6000mm - 12000mm again polishing lengthwise between grades. I then use Brasso pink paste and buff off followed by Nanowax and another buff. By far the best finish I can ever achieve.

We do not have Minwax Clear Gloss Polyurethane in Australia but Les Elm form Canada uses it and the finish he gets is outstanding with no mm or buffing.

I know it is a long process but it definitely works

http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l369/simomatra/Pens/Imperialwastewood3.jpg

I hope this all helps

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use synthetic wool at 000 or 0000 between coats.

[Ron Stadler]

Others with more experience will certainly chime in, but my experience was the same as yours with 600 grit. I now only buff with 0000 steel wool between coats. I apply very thin coats to keep from getting runs in the finish.

He's right about putting on very thin coats, something I read and help me to keep the coats very thin is to apply it super thin and if it looks like you missed a spot then just leave it alone because your going to put on many coats of this stuff and you'll pick it up the next time. Myself I apply the first couple of coats by the manufactures recommendations and then let each coat dry a full day before adding others and then buff 1 full week after the last coat. As far as sanding in between 2 or 3 coats I believe I just used steel wool, but other methods may be better on this which is something I'm still experimenting with.

[James Combs]

If 600 grit is too coarse, try 1200 or 1500 sand paper. Also experiment with a piece of brown paper bag, that should be more than 1200 grit.

1200 in MM is also is what I use between coats. Haven't notice any marks.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Thanks for the advice. I sanded away the scratches and began again. I will make my coats ultra thin, save any sanding until several coats have been applied or maybe not at all and keep micro mesh in mind.
faust

[Thomas Canfield]

I have been buffing with Tripoli before first coat, inbetween coats, and after final coat of a homebrew oil/poly mix. It does a good job of leveling out any streaks, and the initial buff really lets you see the wood.

[BILL DONAHUE]

I've found that sandpaper clogs too easy with WOP. Instead, a very light use of fresh 0000 steel wool does a nice job and then it's important to use the air compressor between coats.

[Chris Barnett]

Have used wipe-on-poly on walnut furniture I was refinishing. I would final sand before finishing and put paper away, then clean up work and area with vacuum and damp rags. After 1st coat and thereafter except last (depending on satin or gloss finish) would work each application with 0000 wool after 24 hours, progresssively lighter. After cleaning with vacuum and tac rag, poly would be applied so thin that only the color (wetting) change would indicate that portion that I had already coated. Never had any streaks or marks and final finish looked natural. Time was not an issue so applied perhaps up to 10 coats. Probably threw away more poly on applicator (cloth) than ended up on furniture, however the finish has held up very well.