Boring straight with a Spofford Brace

[Matt Sullenbrand]

First time posting here, and I could use some advice. I have a number of old Spofford braces with the wing nut chucks, and I love how light and nimble they are. The problem I am having with them is boring a straight hole (aka, being bored straight!). I am seeing a couple of problems. One is that it is difficult to square the bit up to the wood while cranking the drill. I am guessing that will come with practice. The other is that the hole sometimes appears to be a bit curved when drilling really deep stock. It almost seems like some of these old braces get out of square at the bend right above the pewetered-on crank handle, which then gives the bit the slightest wobble. Has anyone else had this experience, and does anyone have advice for the prospect of fixing an out of square brace, other than throwing it away? Any advice for boring squarely with a brace and bit?

Thanks!

[Mike Siemsen]

Matt,
Try boring some holes with a typical ratchet type brace that you know isn't bent. If you get the same problems then you know it isn't the type of brace but the operator. Typically it is fairly easy to judge 90 degrees from side to side while looking straight on at the brace and bit. It is the angle of the brace either away or towards us that is tough to judge, a small mirror set off to one side enables you to see this angle as well. the easiest way is to have somone stand and eyeball that angle for you.
Mike

[Steve Branam]

I have several Spofford braces, and I love them, because they are light and simple, easy to use. However, one has a definite wobble in the pad, so I don't use it. I suspect one good drop on a cement floor is probably enough to ruin the alignment of one. I don't know if it would be practical to try to hammer one back into shape.

The method I've found best for straight boring is to put my forehead down on my upper hand on the pad and sight down to the bit as I crank. While it may look like I'm trying the drill the hole with my head, that seems to give the best stability. When I need to be extra careful, I stand up a couple of squares next to the bit to sight against, at right angles to each other. While making the first few cranks, I'll stop and look at it from the side to make sure it's going in right. After that, you're pretty much committed, and you can't correct the path.

Last, make sure your bit is straight. I have a couple of old auger bits that are curved slightly, so I don't use them. Lay your hand on it and roll it back and forth on the bench and watch both ends, you ought to be able to feel if it's bent or see if an end is off-axis.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Here's a good way to ensure you're boring horizontally, called "the ring trick (http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/1/post/2010/5/quick-tip-6-the-ring-trick.html)." From Bob Rozaieski at Logan Cabinet Shoppe.

[Marty Studer]

I have several Spoffords that I use and all except one work great. It has multiple problems so it stays on the wall. I suspect your problem is either in the bit or the way the bit is set in the brace. You might look at these two sites for some tips on aligning angles. I have used both with a brace and bit with very good results. Gregg Pennington blog http://greg-aroundtheshop.blogspot.com/ and Peter Galbert's blog http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/2007/03/good-enough-for-chair-work.html Both of these sites have other posts on drilling. I think they may be members of the creek also.

[Matt Sullenbrand]

Thanks for all the great advice from everyone here! Now, off to practice, and hopefully improve...Cheers!

[harry strasil]

Most braces with spofford chucks are made of wrought iron, a very soft material and everyone I have and have ever seen is bent out of alignment from being dropped or usually from excessive pressure trying to bore using a dull auger bit. I always realign them by inserting a known straight bit and then lining it up by eye with the push handle by clamping in a machinists vise and using an old monkey style wrench to tweek it into alignment. FWIW