Best way to assemble wood.

[Jose Luis]

Hi guys, i want to make for my own an frame like this http://www.spanishpeacock.com/images/warpingboard01.jpg

i want to know wich methed recommend me to get the best and durable join of the frame..



Sorry for my english

[johnny means]

I vote for a doweled lap joint. Easy and strong plus you'll have the dowels already.

[Don Morris]

I'd have a frame like that built in a heartbeat with my Kreg pocket hole jig. I know it would be quick and durable. But you'd have to have a Kreg or other type of pocket hole jig system.

[shane lyall]

If you have a dado set you could use half laps and just glue it up. Plenty of glue area so it should be plenty strong. I'm a mortice and tenon guy myself but that's just me. I enjoy making them.

[sunny nic]

If you have a dado set you could use half laps and just glue it up. Plenty of glue area so it should be plenty strong. I'm a mortice and tenon guy myself but that's just me. I enjoy making them.

making them is enjoyable for sure.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

All good suggestions - pinned lap, M&T, or pocket holes.

if there is going to be a lot of stress on the joints, consider drawbore joinery (just Google it). It's a pinned joint (such as a pinned mortise and tenon), but you offset the hole in the pieces a little bit so that when you drive the pin (or dowel) through it will actually pull the joint even tighter.

[Troy Turner]

If you don't have a Kreg jig, you can still make the pocket hole on a drill press. Just make a jig to hold your work at an angle and drill the pocket (not all the way through) though. Looks like the pinned joint would work too, but the drawbore would be an excellent idea if you're making the mortise and tenon.

[Jim Heffner]

Another vote here for the pocket hole and screws.

[Pat Barry]

To me the best way is all relative. What tools do you have? You could probably get by screwing L shaped angle brackets onto the back. Maybe even could nail it together, possibly with some corner braces. You do pocket screws if you have the tools. You could make a Greene and Greene mortise and thru tenon. Is it a gift? If so you might want to invest more into the appearance. Does it have high stress then you may need to go with bridle joints or mortise and tenon. I bet there are 50 ways to put this together.

[William Hamilton]

why not mitre them and add biscuits or dovetail keys?

[Chris Bruno]

I'm going out on a limb from the name of the picture, but is this a frame/jig to assist in bending things?

If so, then I would vote strongly for any of the pinned varieties of joints that have been mentioned. If it were me, then I'd probably use simple lap joints with yellow glue and slap it together.. Then after the glue dried, I'd drill a couple of through-holes slightly undersized for a dowel and tap in a dowel or two per joint with a little glue on them. Trim the dowels flush and you'll have a joint that should be 'Strong like bull'.

If the piece isn't going to see any real stress and my assumption of its intended use was incorrect, then this suggestion is probably overkill.

-Chris

[Brad Gobble]

+1 for drawbore M&T


All good suggestions - pinned lap, M&T, or pocket holes.

if there is going to be a lot of stress on the joints, consider drawbore joinery (just Google it). It's a pinned joint (such as a pinned mortise and tenon), but you offset the hole in the pieces a little bit so that when you drive the pin (or dowel) through it will actually pull the joint even tighter.

[Charles Wiggins]

I vote for a doweled lap joint. Easy and strong plus you'll have the dowels already.

+1

That project is ready made for a half-lap with a dowel pin.

[Chuck Wintle]

why not mitre them and add biscuits or dovetail keys?

i will second the use of biscuits...probably the cheapest and quickest method.

[Paul Wunder]

If what you are building is a "frame" for simply measuring yarn that is to be woven, it doesn't sound like there will be much stress on the joints at all: half lap, pocket screws even biscuits would work. Another design is shown below

http://www.dickblick.com/products/schacht-warping-board/

Paul

[Russell Sansom]

I'd certainly go with a half-lap for the warping board. There's so much face grain to glue, I don't think you need to draw bore them, just put those dowels in the corners all the way through. Even at my place where I mortise and tenon everything, I'd still half-lap this one.