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Jeff Ranck
03-14-2011, 8:48 PM
Are there really no currently produced chamfer spokeshaves that are worth buying? A search on the forum showed no one had anything good to say about Kunz and as far as I can see they are the only ones currently produced.

Am I really going to have to pay for a vintage stanley 65? They aren't inexpensive lately.

Pam Niedermayer
03-14-2011, 9:59 PM
Are there really no currently produced chamfer spokeshaves that are worth buying?...

Most any spokeshave can be used to chamfer. Round bottoms could be a little problematic.

Pam

Jeff Ranck
03-15-2011, 11:23 PM
Most any spokeshave can be used to chamfer.
Pam

I was thinking about something with guides, since I've never cut these by hand before. I know the theory - mark a line and plane to it - but not so sure I'd have the skills to make it turn out nice on a long board. Of course, maybe that is a good reason to build my workbench first and incorporate the design detail into it. Lots of practice where it doesn't matter.

I would like to find a better way to cut these rather than my porter cable router (can I actually mention a tool with a tail down here?). Since I'l living in India for the next two years and my shop and tools are back in the states, it gives me lots of time to think and plan (and live vicariously through all of you).

Ryan Fee
03-16-2011, 7:53 AM
Any reason not to go with a chamfer plane?

Something along the lines of this: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=41197&cat=1,41182 would seem to meet your criteria of being affordable and having a guide.

Brian Vaughn
03-16-2011, 8:17 AM
Why do you have to use a spokeshave? Why not a standard hand plane? More to point, you could easily make a jig to hold said hand plane at a 45 degree angle, and cut the chamfer as deep as you wanted.

Here's a couple of quick links from the nice folks at google:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/31506/simple-bevel-chamfer-jig-for-plane-and-face-vise

And even a sawmill creek link for somethign similar: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?154482-chamfer-plane&p=1581856

Derek Cohen
03-16-2011, 8:58 AM
I have a Stanley #65 chamfer shave. It has limitations - not indicated for flat boards and cannot create a small chamfer (say 1/8").

90% of the time I use a block plane or a jack-then-smoother.

If you want something controlled, look at the LV LA blockplane plus chamfer accessory.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Jeff Ranck
03-16-2011, 9:08 AM
This is great info for me. Sounds like a plane or similar is the way to go over s spokeshave. So I'm just getting into planes and haven't even handled a spokeshave before. So keep the spokeshaves for curved boards?

Jeff Ranck
03-16-2011, 9:10 AM
I have a Stanley #65 chamfer shave. It has limitations - not indicated for flat boards and cannot create a small chamfer (say 1/8").

90% of the time I use a block plane or a jack-then-smoother.

If you want something controlled, look at the LV LA blockplane plus chamfer accessory.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek: I did see that cool chamfer plane you made on the other thread. Maybe someday I'll have enough skills to do something similar. I've watched your work for years and I'm constantly amazed at what you do.

Mark Maleski
03-16-2011, 11:35 AM
Am I really going to have to pay for a vintage stanley 65? They aren't inexpensive lately.

As I recall, Chris Schwarz blogged about them recently. That likely drove prices up. Should be temporary.

Maurice Ungaro
03-16-2011, 3:35 PM
Jeff,
Here's another option for you:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58664&cat=1,230,41182

Jeff Ranck
03-16-2011, 9:58 PM
Jeff,
Here's another option for you:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58664&cat=1,230,41182

I have an old drawknife (my grandfathers), but I've never used it. I don't know how to use them and they've always seemed rough for what I was doing at the time. Maybe it is time to learn something about them.

Charles McKinley
03-17-2011, 12:50 AM
Hi Jeff,

Draw knives are wonderful tools. Properly set up they are double beveled to make it easier to control the depth of cut. You also have to pay close attention to the grain of the wood as they can start a split very easily especially if it has been tapered thin . This allows the wood to split rather than the shaving break. Roy Underhill talks aout their use a lot and I sure there is more draw knife information here.