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Gary Herrmann
01-24-2005, 9:05 PM
I'm tired of my marking gauge. Too much slop in the adjustment, dull blade, hard to sharpen etc etc. I'm thinking of buying one of those TiteMark IIIs - the ones that come with a few different blades and can be used for dovetails, mortises etc. I know they're pricey - over $100. Can anyone tell me where they got a good price on one?

Note to moderator - sorry if I shouldn't be asking this here. If I shouldn't, and this still gets posted - please PM me with your responses. Thanx.

Ken Salisbury
01-25-2005, 6:05 AM
I'm tired of my marking gauge. Too much slop in the adjustment, dull blade, hard to sharpen etc etc. I'm thinking of buying one of those TiteMark IIIs - the ones that come with a few different blades and can be used for dovetails, mortises etc. I know they're pricey - over $100. Can anyone tell me where they got a good price on one?

Note to moderator - sorry if I shouldn't be asking this here. If I shouldn't, and this still gets posted - please PM me with your responses. Thanx.

Nothing is wrong with asking this :)

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/misc/moderator.gif

Mark Singer
01-25-2005, 8:14 AM
Gary,

Lee Valley has a very similar one for a lot less $$$

Marc Hills
01-25-2005, 8:56 AM
I second Mark's suggestion that you consider the Veritas copy. The graduated model improves on the Tite-bond and still costs far less. FYI: I don't own one of these, but I'd sooner buy from Lee Valley and have a root canal than pay that much for a Tite-Bond.

Spence DePauw
01-25-2005, 6:06 PM
You could make one. They aren't difficult.

:D



Spence

Bob Noles
01-25-2005, 6:24 PM
On the other hand.... how much do you want for yours? :rolleyes: That is a beauty!

Spence DePauw
01-25-2005, 8:02 PM
Hadn't thought of selling them. I'll give it some thought, in terms of material and time. They won't be "cheap" though... :rolleyes: (I could consider trading... if that doesn't get me in trouble for offering. Probably should do that sort of thing via PM's) The one I posted is rosewood and maple, with ebony wedge and pressure pad.

I've just been playing with the design, and so far, each one is a little different.

Spence

PS: I've also done some in this style... bubinga and brass.

David Fried
01-25-2005, 9:54 PM
My local library has a book with plans for a nice marking gauge.
"Better Homes and Gardens Wood Working Tools You Can Make".
I still can't believe it's from Better Homes and Garden! You might
check your library if you're going to make one.

Bob Johnson2
01-25-2005, 10:10 PM
Amazing, the local library actually has it! They never have anything. Thanks, I'll give it a look. The one I have is about as old as they get.

Gary Herrmann
01-26-2005, 10:51 AM
That knows I'm into wwing and he mentioned to me yesterday that he thinks he has a Starrett marking gauge in the basement somewhere he'd sell me (he said give, but I feel I ought to pay him for it). He doesn't think it has a blade, but maybe I can pick one up at Rockler or Woodcraft. I looked at the Starrett site and they look like they come with square blades. I remember hearing round ones work better. Maybe I can find something to fit.

The wooden gauges that folks have shown are very nice, but for some reason, I just like the idea of a metal one. I'll let you guys know if I get the Starrett and I can find blade for it. Thanks for your ideas.

Tyler Howell
01-26-2005, 11:06 AM
Gary,

It has been my experience that the flat blade cuts well across the fiberous grain with less tear-out and the round pins track well with the grain. Like clamps you can never have too many gages:rolleyes: . With a complex project I like to keep a gage fixed for repeated markings. Re-adjusting the gage adds an error that could grow over time. I have a couple three different types that keep a "standard" during a project.
Enjoy

Steve Wargo
01-26-2005, 11:10 AM
If you're willing to shell out the $$$ for Tite-mark then at least consider a Bridge City Marking Gauge. I have the one that has posts on one side so it can be reversed and used for marking arcs and it is head and shoulders above any I've used, and yes I've used the tite marke. As to the Veritas, it's nice and I have one, but the heft is about half the tite mark. Marking and measuring is important, don't skimp on squares or marking tools. Just my $.02

Mike Keating
01-26-2005, 11:29 AM
I have the Lee-Valley marking tri-marking gauge and it is the easiest thing in the world to use (it has to be if I can use it accurately). I think the guage was 15.00 and worth its weight in gold.

Just my .01$

Mike Keating

john lawson
01-26-2005, 9:05 PM
I bought one of these recently from Woodcraft (the one marked b.) It nice in the hand, made of rosewood and costs $29.99

Alan Turner
01-27-2005, 3:49 AM
I think the Starrett uses a blade similar to the Patternmakers guage I use. It is a small piece of metal, square, with a hole in the center to receive the screw that attaches it to the beam. You can make one from a section of a broken bandsaw blade. You might have to take the temper out of the balde, shape it, and them reharden it. Tools for working wood carries this marker, and might have the blade.
Alan