Oak Moulding................Advise Needed?

[James Meehan]

Hi, I was hoping someone might be able to advise me on how I would match the moulding detail (first picture) on the original table rail?

I have matched the pattern as best I could and then band sawed to shape. I don’t have a spindle moulder only hand tools and a few machines, also power tools mainly routers.

At first I was asked to repair and then refinish the original oak table, but then I was asked if I could make a smaller table that matched.

186776 186780 186777 186778





I may in the future have to match the moulding detail in the pictures below again any advice would be very much appreciated.
186779 186781 http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.pnghttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.pnghttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/pencil.png

[Ed Morgano]

James,
Do you have a router table? This could be done with a beveled raised panel cutter and a radius rabbiting bit. They make HHS piloted mortising bits that you could easily put a radius on to match the molding. Trick would be getting the right rabbiting bit. Also, if you could draw the profile with dimensions it would help.

[Bobby Knourek]

Woodworkers Tool Works can produce a pattern bit for your router or shaper in 24 hours that will match your detail.
They can also help you match up with standard tools already available off the shelf.


BK.

[Peter Quinn]

I think a router is probably the way to go here. You will still need to carve those inside corners by hand. Perhaps a rebate bit and a slight chamfer will handle it. You could grind a scratch stock for a completely hand approach, that will certainly give youmamchallengemin QSWO. It's hard to make out the door moldings exactly but for those your choices are router, shaper, molding plane or outsource. To a local millworks outfit if the pineal footage or budget makes sense.

[Jamie Buxton]

The basic answer is router bits guided from the edge, plus careful hand work with chisels in the corners.

For the door, you may find it is easiest to evacuate with router bits, and then fasten on a half-found molding. I'd fasten it with a pin nailer, but you might not have one. Then I'd do careful gluing and clamping, and a scraper to clean off squeeze-out.

[Gregory King]

I"ll bet that pretty much exact bit [or real close] is in the Freud catologue. I've got the catologue, but can't get a good closeup of the profile or I would suggest the item number.

[James Meehan]

Thanks for the replys they have been most helpful. I will try and draw the profile with sizes and post later.