Removing "stuck" router bit

[julian abram]

I was wondering if you guys had a "magical" cure for removing a router bit stuck in the collet? A couple months ago I purchased a used Porter Cable 3518 to install in a router table. It came with a 1/2"x1-1/4" straight bit installed. Now I know why the bit came with the router, I'm guessing the previous owner could not remove it either. Anyhow, I've loosened the collet nut, soaked it WD40 and tried to pull the bit out with channel locks.
The bit is still locked in tight. Any suggestions on how to remove this? thanks-

[Steve Rowe]

Try continuing to loosen the collet nut. Later models have a self release collet.

[Chris Fournier]

Easy and this question has been answered here in the last six weeks! Cut a thin piece of hardwood in the shape of a "U" with the space between the arms of the U being slightly over the width of the cutter shank diameter and the thickness being just enough to slip in between the collet face and the router bit. Now put this U between the collet and the bit and loosen the collet and pop goes the stickey bit. Never fails!

[Joe Watson]

Try giving the bit a light tap into the collet, in the same direction as if you where sliding a new bit into the collet.

If/When you do get the bit out, i would check the under side of the collet nut along with the collet, might be time to replace both of them.

[Dick Phillip]

You may want to read this ......

http://www.newwoodworker.com/stuckbits.html

Dick

[pat warner]

I'm thinking 518? No PC router with that motor number.
If 518, then take collet and suspend between 2 pieces of equal thickness wood under the drill press quill. Put 3/8 pin in the chuck and press the bugger out of the collet. Then scrap the collet.

[julian abram]

Sorry I typo-ed the model number, it is a PC 7518. Thanks for all the suggestions, I cut a "U" shaped piece of oak and popped it right out like Chris said. Again thanks for the help!

[Dave Lehnert]

You may want to read this ......

http://www.newwoodworker.com/stuckbits.html

Dick

This is a good link. Hope you take he time to read.

[Myk Rian]

Use something besides WD-40. It isn't made to loosen rust.

[Karl Brogger]

Holy crap you guys make things difficult sometimes.

Bang on the loosened nut with the wrench.

Presto.

[Edward P. Surowiec]

To prevent a bit from getting stuck, insert a small rubber grommet into to the Collet this allows a router bit to hit the bottom and not being trapped.

[Bill White]

To prevent a bit from getting stuck, insert a small rubber grommet into to the Collet this allows a router bit to hit the bottom and not being trapped.

Don't you mean an "o" ring?
Bill

[Bob Wingard]

The "O-ring" trick keeps the collet from trying to grab on the chamfer of the shank, which can cause bits to loosen and fly out on their own.

I believe he really meant grommet which is normally dropped down into the armature shaft to keep the bit from bottoming out .. BUT .. what does a grommet do to prevent corrosion from forming between dissimilar metals when a user carelessly left the bit installed for an extended period of time ???

The grommet trick prevents the end of the bit from bottoming out which causes it's own set of problems, but it is not a universal cure ... my BOSCH 1615EVS has a center hole in the collet end that's about 2" deep. It would take a dozen grommets to fill that thing up ... instead, I cut an appropriate length of 1/2" "POLYCORD" .. a solid urethane product that has just a tad of "give" to accomplish the same thing. I think too often, the "concept" of making the depth of the hole shallower is overshadowed by the "method" of so doing. I really needed (wanted) to lessen the depth of the hole, but the grommet trick would never do in my case. Another variable comes into play also ... some bits have a much longer shank than others, and my urethane "plug" has to be removed to accommodate them. The plug does work wonderfully with bit sets that are "matched" for length, like the CMT/Sommerfeld offset tongue & groove bits. I can swapp back & forth without ever needing to adjust the depth of cut.

[Neil Brooks]

To prevent a bit from getting stuck, insert a small rubber grommet into to the Collet this allows a router bit to hit the bottom and not being trapped.

+1

I bought a BUNCH (for pennies, in total) of 1/4" and 1/2" ID O-rings, exactly for that reason.

Also, before AND after I use EACH bit, I clean it pretty thoroughly -- usually with WD-40 (removing the O-ring first, as WD tends to eat rubber), AND blow out the collet with compressed air.

[Greg Portland]

The "O-ring" trick keeps the collet from trying to grab on the chamfer of the shank, which can cause bits to loosen and fly out on their own.The O-ring does NOT go on the bit, it sits at the bottom of the collet (exactly how you described the grommet). If anyone is using a technique where the o-ring is between the collet and bit then they should stop immediately.

[Rob Sack]

Easy and this question has been answered here in the last six weeks! Cut a thin piece of hardwood in the shape of a "U" with the space between the arms of the U being slightly over the width of the cutter shank diameter and the thickness being just enough to slip in between the collet face and the router bit. Now put this U between the collet and the bit and loosen the collet and pop goes the stickey bit. Never fails!

You can also use a 1/4" open end wrench in the same manner if the shank is 1/4", or 1/2" open end wrench with a 1/2" shank.

[Neil Brooks]

The O-ring does NOT go on the bit, it sits at the bottom of the collet (exactly how you described the grommet). If anyone is using a technique where the o-ring is between the collet and bit then they should stop immediately.

I give up.

I've been thinking about this, and then ... looking into it on various websites, and ... still cannot come up with a single reason NOT to stick the o-rings on the shank of the bit, as is my practice.

Why do you think it's a bad idea ?

It's advocated in several places, including ....

http://www.routertips.com/index.htm

:confused:

[Chris Fournier]

You can also use a 1/4" open end wrench in the same manner if the shank is 1/4", or 1/2" open end wrench with a 1/2" shank.

My only concern with this technique is that the metal wrench could very easily damage the carbide on the cutter. To avoid this I use wood.

[John Lifer]

Rather a crappy link. No really good solution. "Contact the manufacturer" What a load.

Chris offered the BEST solution. Works well if you have a stuck drive center in your lathe too. Incline plane driven in will pull it out when nothing else will.



This is a good link. Hope you take he time to read.

[Pat Barry]

I can see putting the oring in the collet - that makes some sense. It makes no sense whatsoever to put the oring on the bit shaft. This would not even fit in the collet. Having the oring in the collet would at least let you tap on the bit to free it up. You could use a piece of wood or not depending on how much value you placed on the bit in question.

[Peter Quinn]

Holy crap you guys make things difficult sometimes.

Bang on the loosened nut with the wrench.

Presto.

I'm thinking the same thing. PC routers have the stickiest collets I have worked with. I just give the bit in router, the whole works, a gentle "tap" on the edge of my bench and voila, its free 98.7% of the time. Yes, just give it a smack. Don't be afraid, don't be too gentle. Let it know who the boss is in that shop and next time it will think twice about sticking. If that doesn't work I pick up a cut off and show it some more love. Whack! Not with a 20# sledge mind you.

[Steve Griffin]

Rather a crappy link. No really good solution. "Contact the manufacturer" What a load.

Chris offered the BEST solution. Works well if you have a stuck drive center in your lathe too. Incline plane driven in will pull it out when nothing else will.

Yep, that cracked me up to. Sort of like going to the ER room if your Viagra last for more than 6 hours--it's never actually happened.

I've got a Makita with a stuck bit which has withstood all solutions. I can't imagine applying anymore force without the motor turning inside out....

-Steve

[Dave Lehnert]

I was referring to the info on how a self releasing collect works. Not saying that all the other suggestions given don't work. But in my experance 99% of the time you just need to keep turning the nut for the bit to release. I'm sure using a pry bar and a hammer would also get the bit out.

[kevin loftus]

I give up.

I've been thinking about this, and then ... looking into it on various websites, and ... still cannot come up with a single reason NOT to stick the o-rings on the shank of the bit, as is my practice.

Why do you think it's a bad idea ?

It's advocated in several places, including ....

http://www.routertips.com/index.htm

:confused:



Quote - Be sure to remove the band prior to routing, as any heat build-up could melt it to the bit's shaft.
:) This is quoted from the link you provided.:)