Woodoc WOP

[Richard Kennedy UK]

Anyone tried using it? How long does it take to dry between coats? I have never used WOP before but applied some last night today its 2.30 pm and its still tacky I need to put more coats on but it won't dry any help appreciated

Richard

[Steve Schlumpf]

Richard - I am not familiar with that particular brand but have found that temperature and humidity play a huge role in how long it takes for WOP to dry. The poly I use is Minwax and is very water-like as far as consistency right out of the can. Applied thin, it doesn't take but an hour or so to dry when the temps are warm but can often take 3 to 4 when cool and damp.

If you can move the turning into a heated area - it may help.

I checked the Woodoc website and did not see WOP as a product. Most likely that is my error but are you sure it is WOP?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Steve said. Haven't used that brand but I have found if it is below 70 degrees it takes WOP a while to dry.

[Richard Kennedy UK]

Yes its sold by Phil Irons the Vicmarc guy here in the UK

http://www.philironswoodturning.co.uk/shop201108b/index.php?categoryID=116&category_slug=woodoc-food-for-wood

I imagine it must be the temp its cold here at the moment although I brought it into the house hours ago and its still tacky I coloured the piece with spirit stains and used a bit of meths to blend the colours together could that have an effect? I assume you just wipe it on or in my case used a small art brush and then leave it to dry???

As for consistency its a bit like 2 stroke oil goes on nice but haven't achieved the required finish yet - when I do I will post a pic

might be in summer

Richard

[Steve Schlumpf]

Richard - if the minerals spirits had not fully evaporated, I know from experience that will cause a problem drying! It will dry but will take a heck of a lot longer than normal.

When I use poly - the first coat or two is with a brush to make sure the wood really soaks in the finish. I let it sit for a few minutes, wipe off the excess and allow to dry. After that I can apply very thin coats of poly using a folded up paper towel of piece of cloth. The idea then is to wipe a thin coat on and let it dry, then add another and another until you achieve the finish you desire. Hope that helps.

[Richard Kennedy UK]

Steve that is exactly the kind of advice I wanted to hear! Thanks a bunch I am so slow to pick up new stuff I am a stick in the mud I get used to doing things one way and then don't look anywhere else This year I decided to embrace "The New" I will see where it takes me! I will wait a few days then re-coat in the manner you suggested!

Thanks again

Richard

[Steve Schlumpf]

Richard - the first coat or two are to seal the wood and give the final finish something to build upon. When doing the saturation coats - I always make sure to wipe off the excess. If you allow the wood to dry first - you will not need the one or two saturation coats as the wood will already have been sealed. Lightly sand if needed and start in with the first of many very light coats of poly. Make sure you allow each coat to dry or you will once again have a sticky mess.

If you get tired of waiting for the original coat of poly to dry... mineral spirits will remove the surface poly. Then be sure to allow the piece to dry, lightly sand and start over.

[David E Keller]

Steve's got a heck of a lot more experience than I when it comes to finishing pieces, but I do things a bit different. I usually seal the piece with a coat (or two)of dewaxed shellac then apply thin coats of WOP with a paper towel.

[Phil Hansen]

Anyone tried using it? Richard
Woodoc is made in South Africa where I live and I use most of their products for flat work as well as turning.
Their call in line is extremely helpfull but not so easy for you to phone in from over there.
For my pens I sand to at least 400 - I usually go to MM as well.
Using a paper towel apply Woodoc 25 and then burnish until your fingers are hot.
Do this 5 to 8 times allowing about 15 to 30 minutes between applications.
After the last coat I let it dry overnight then apply 2 coats of their 'Antique Wax'
which is a microcrystiline (sp) wax like 'Rennaissance Wax' and buff between coats.
Polish and the result is super smooth.
You could use Woodoc 10 but the finish would not be as glossy for a pen but great
for a bowl or anything else that does not get a lot of finger contact.
PS: it is food safe

HTH
Phil