Kathy Marshall
03-13-2011, 12:12 AM
So I'll start with the good....
Made a new HF tool the other day, for minis :D Turned a handle and ground a 3/32" allen wrench for the business end. Tried it out on a mesquite scrap. It's .66" tall x .74" wide and hollowed as uniformly as I could make it (can't stick my finger in to check wall thickness lol, now I'm going to have to make some micro calipers).
186559
The bowl and platter are Cherry. Can't tell in the pics (forgot to take a profile shot) but I turned a bead on the rim of the bowl. The signature on the platter was a challenge. Took a very light touch to just skim the surface to get a fine enough line. I need to get another pen for my burner, the kind where you can make your own tips and change them out. My current pen has a permanent tip.
186556
Now for the bad...
Another piece from Emory Oak Burl. Lost a chunk of the bark while turning, but I'm ok with that. Turned a pedestal out of Mesquite and used India Ink to dye it black (worked great), then turned a lid from the same piece of burl, then turned a finial from Mesquite (also dyed with india ink).
186555 186557
So for the last couple of days I've been working on the finish. Today I was giving it the quick once over with some 0000 steel wool before applying another coat of WOP. I was working on the lid (which already had the finial glued in) and my grip slipped :mad: I didn't even drop the piece, it just pivoted in my hand and the tip of the finial bumped the workbench and the top 1/3 of the finial said goodbye to the bottom 2/3. I glued it back together for the pic, but the finial is not salvageable. The place where it broke was .092" diameter.
186558
So, since I'm going to need to turn a new finial, I thought I'd get some suggestions based on the old finial. Is it too tall? Should I turn different details on it? etc??
Also, what's the best way to remove the broken finial from the lid? I've tried using some CA debonder, but it doesn't seem able to work it's way into the joint. Am I just going to need to cut the finial as close to the lid as possible and just re-drill for the new finial tenon?
Made a new HF tool the other day, for minis :D Turned a handle and ground a 3/32" allen wrench for the business end. Tried it out on a mesquite scrap. It's .66" tall x .74" wide and hollowed as uniformly as I could make it (can't stick my finger in to check wall thickness lol, now I'm going to have to make some micro calipers).
186559
The bowl and platter are Cherry. Can't tell in the pics (forgot to take a profile shot) but I turned a bead on the rim of the bowl. The signature on the platter was a challenge. Took a very light touch to just skim the surface to get a fine enough line. I need to get another pen for my burner, the kind where you can make your own tips and change them out. My current pen has a permanent tip.
186556
Now for the bad...
Another piece from Emory Oak Burl. Lost a chunk of the bark while turning, but I'm ok with that. Turned a pedestal out of Mesquite and used India Ink to dye it black (worked great), then turned a lid from the same piece of burl, then turned a finial from Mesquite (also dyed with india ink).
186555 186557
So for the last couple of days I've been working on the finish. Today I was giving it the quick once over with some 0000 steel wool before applying another coat of WOP. I was working on the lid (which already had the finial glued in) and my grip slipped :mad: I didn't even drop the piece, it just pivoted in my hand and the tip of the finial bumped the workbench and the top 1/3 of the finial said goodbye to the bottom 2/3. I glued it back together for the pic, but the finial is not salvageable. The place where it broke was .092" diameter.
186558
So, since I'm going to need to turn a new finial, I thought I'd get some suggestions based on the old finial. Is it too tall? Should I turn different details on it? etc??
Also, what's the best way to remove the broken finial from the lid? I've tried using some CA debonder, but it doesn't seem able to work it's way into the joint. Am I just going to need to cut the finial as close to the lid as possible and just re-drill for the new finial tenon?