lap joint help

[Norris Randall]

I think I want to construct a frame using lap joints.
Just don't know the best tools to use for cutting the offsets.

I do not feel I can do a proper job using the bandsaw.
Multiple dado cuts on radial arm?
Build jig for router?
____________________ fill in the blank.:confused:
What say you?
Thank you one and all.
185964

[Casey Gooding]

Well, seeing as how you're in Neader World, I think the answer would be with handsaws. Though, if the above measurements are correct, you would need some pretty massive tenon saws to do it. You could cut as far as you can reach with a tenon saw, then use a standard rip saw to finish them off.
If I were to condone the killing of electrons in making this joint, I would first say a well tuned bandsaw would be my first choice. Next would be a dado stack on the table saw. Radial arm saws just scare the snot out of me.

[Norris Randall]

Thank you Casey for you quick reply.
I think I put this question in the wrong forum but don't know how to move.
My second choice would be mortise/tenon.:confused::confused:
This project is for an outlaw sized exterior door which will have a plywood panel.
What's yours and OTHERS opinion of using a one inch tenon?
I'm listening.

PS I've been using my radial saw since 1959 and am very aware of the danger.
Thanks for your concern.

If someone can move this thread to the proper forum please do or give me directions.

[Casey Gooding]

When you say one inch tenon, are you referring to the thickness or width?? If it's width you are referring to, that's not nearly big enough. If you have a 6" rail, I would make the tenon at least 4" wide and 1/3 of your material thickness.
Hope this helps.

[Jim Matthews]

If you own a vise and flat workbench, you should be able to cut these with two backsaws, one rip for the cheek and one crosscut for the shoulder.

Faster than setting up a radial thumbcut-off saw, for sure.

If you're unhappy with the cheeks, a meat powered router with standoff block will get the thickness dialed in.

Unplug your shop, it's quieter and more fun.

[Prashun Patel]

Norris, I'd do them on the RAS or the table saw (and a miter fence-or-sled, crosscutting them flat). If you have a dado stack, great. If not, you can do it in multiple passes and then clean up with a block plane and chisel. It might take a little longer to cut, but you don't have to measure as critically, and it offers so much control and since you only have 4 joints to make, it'll go fast. I also like to peg my half laps with hardwood dowels.

I think when you say M&T is yr next choice, you might mean a bridle joint. The half lap is easier to cut and pretty strong. The wood mags do periodic tests of all the joints, and the M&T / bridles are usually at the top, with the half lap a close second.

[Kent A Bathurst]

rough cut wide of the line w/BS; fine-tune w/hand planes [rabbet block + shoulder plane would be my first choices, if available]

[Dave Anderson NH]

If I had caught this thread jsut after it was posted I would definitely move it to General Woodworking. Now that we have Neander answers and electron killing answers I'm between a rock and a hard place. Where does it belong?

OK folks, now it is time to exercise your senses of humor in a tasteful way and bail me out.:D

[Norris Randall]

Dave,
Just move it if you like and put the blame on me.
If some idiot drives the wrong way down a one way street; I would not blame the police officer on duty.:D

I'll attempt to be more careful next time.
Thanks for all your effort.
Norris

[Tony Shea]

I would personally use handsaws and router/block/shoulder planes to clean the surface. But where you are not neccessarily looking for the hand tool method, my next choice would be with a dado stack in the TS. I would scribe the shoulder lines plenty deep and get real close to the lines with the dado stack. Then I would pare down to the scribe mark with a wide chisel with an ever so slight undercut. The dado stack can be an accurate tenoning method when set up properly. Used to my method before I began my slope down the hand tool road. And boy its' certainly a slippery one.