Sublimation material that can be cut with low wattage laser?

[Randy Digby]

I've not been able to find any, but if there is a material coated for sublimation that can be cut with a low wattage (30 watt) laser, then I know someone on the Creek has found it. Anyone found such an animal?

[Scott Shepherd]

The hardboard stuff cuts fairly easily. Have you tried that?

[Gary Hair]

Johnson Plastics has a plastic material that's about .020 thick, glossy on one side and matte on the other, both are sublimatable. I have used them a lot and they are fantastic! They cut pretty well with the laser but the edge is charred and needs to be cleaned - I have tried every setting known to man and it chars... I can't even tell you how many lapel pins I have made with this stuff, it's fantastic! Call Kevin Lumberg (952) 887-5737, he will be able to help you out.

Gary

[AL Ursich]

The new Johnson Plastics Catalog is out and they have the 1 sided Hardboard like a clip board in 23 x 47 in Matt and gloss. And now have 2 sided Gloss in 24 x 48. Then there is the Phenolic or Formica looking in 11.5 x 24 in Matt and gloss.. but it has the NO Laser mark on it...

Then the stuff they make mirror and door hangers from.... White .030 non PVC plastic sheet stock... 12 x 24, 24 x 24, 24 x 36. (Edit: The same stuff Gary posted... Gloss on one side.. Matt on the other.... Gary Types faster.... LOL...)

They show all the sizes of FRP or Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic sheet stock but has the NO Laser mark. I CNC it well with my little Sears CarveWright.

AL

[Martin Boekers]

Conde sells hardboard stock also about .125 inch only glossy cuts easly and transfers well.

I use it all the time. sheet size is smaller 15x18 or something like that.

Tried the FRP, no go, nasty!


Marty

[Randy Digby]

Thanks gang, for the swift and helpful replies. My timing is always off just a bit. I posted the question then went to the mailbox and got my new JP catalog. go figure.
Thanks again.

[Gary Hair]

Thanks gang, for the swift and helpful replies. My timing is always off just a bit. I posted the question then went to the mailbox and got my new JP catalog. go figure.
Thanks again.

But at least now you know which materials we have tried, and work, for what you might need - it's hard to tell that from a catalog.

Gary

[Martin Boekers]

Johnson Plastics has a plastic material that's about .020 thick, glossy on one side and matte on the other, both are sublimatable. I have used them a lot and they are fantastic! They cut pretty well with the laser but the edge is charred and needs to be cleaned - I have tried every setting known to man and it chars... I can't even tell you how many lapel pins I have made with this stuff, it's fantastic! Call Kevin Lumberg (952) 887-5737, he will be able to help you out.

Gary

Gary,

any tips on cutting this stuff? I get a few sheets in and some new single post magnets (JDS) and before I get a chance to
get used to it I start geting people in wanting pins!

[Gary Hair]

I cut mine using 100% power and about 5% speed. My laser is 30 watts and runs 40 ips in vector mode, you can adjust your settings with your speed/power capabilities. Depending on the size and quantity of parts you are cutting you might want to use transfer tape to keep the surface clean. If you have large pieces or just a few, then you can skip the tape and just wipe with denatured alcohol. The edges will get burnt, no way around it that I have found. You can clean the edges by scraping with an exacto knife and they clean up pretty quickly. I have tried everything from a vibratory tumbler with 70 grid aluminum oxide, walnut shells and wood, nothing cleaned the edges except manually scraping them. Fortunately, the one customter I have that needs LOTS of small pieces doesn't care about the edge.

If you press large pieces you will get lots of warping, I have two 12" x 24" x 1/4" sheets of glass that I use to press them flat. Oh, and I almost always use low tack adhesive to hold them on the transfer paper, much quicker and easier than using tape. Spray a very light coat of adhesive on the paper and just place the plastic pieces where you need them. No cleanup, the adhesive stays with the paper!

I don't know if you do epoxy doming, but that adds tremendous value to dye sub pins, I don't do any pins without doming any more. In fact, I'm buying a gallon of epoxy and am looking for two other people to go in on it with me, I myself and one other so far. Let me know if you are interested.

Gary

[Larry Bratton]

Randy and all:
In the Sign Forum here, I posted a thread yesterday about a product called Digicoat. Some people are using it with success to coat there own products for sublimation. Check out the thread. I have ordered some of the stuff and when I get it, I'll test it out and report what I find.