Help with a handle.

[Tim Hughes37]

I’ve been asked by a guy I work with to turn a new handle for an antique screwdriver he has. The metal is all one piece with the handle in two pieces and then attached with the metal in the middle. I’ve been looking for rivets or something that will hold the two pieces of wood together. I’ve looked at Jantz and Lee Valley. The problem is, there are two spaces for rivets/screws, one on top and the other toward the bottom of the handle and each requires a different length in order to fit the diamater of the handle, one being 1 1/4” and the other 7/8”. I can find hardware long enough for the 7/8” with no problem, but the 1 1/4” and still look nice is difficult. I would love any and all input on this. Thanks!

[Richard Galloway]

you need to look at knife making sites or a hobby store that carries knife making rivets. An Option is to go to an auto parts store and purchase rivets for doing brake shoes.

[Tim Hughes37]

Thanks Richard. I've looked at the knife making sites and can find the rivet for the 7/8" but not the 1 1/4". I hadn't thought of the brake shoe rivet.

[Richard Galloway]

as a last ditch effort, go to a saddle / tack making shop and get the good Old fashioned copper rivets. You can also use brass rod that is available at hobby shops. Use tapered holes and set the rod so it fills the hole.

[Scott Hackler]

This might be stupid suggestion, but.... :) Why not make ebony or african blackwood rivets and epoxy the two halves AND the rivets in place. The epoxy alone would hold the two halves together and the rivets just keep the screwdriver from turning and from pulling out of the handle. Just thinking out loud....

[Thom Sturgill]

I bought a set from ebay years ago intending to replace the handles and then fell into a vortex... I had read an article (here?) about replacing the scales and using brass rod (brazing rod will work) and hammering both ends over. Those screw drivers are available new.

[Steve Vaughan]

I've used large nails cut to the length I needed - just a tad longer to stand out on both ends - and hammered both sides. It creates a very nice rivet to order. I've also used copper wire - if you might can use the extra wire, or see a need for other rivets in your future, go to the big box store and buy a foot of #8 or #6 copper grounding wire. They may actually sell you a few inches rather than a foot and the right salesman just might give you a few inches. Same as with the nail, just cut a 1/16" or so longer for each side and hammer it down. You might should taper the hole just a bit, or drill it like you might when you want a wood screw to sit flush with the surface...that will the rivet more to hold down as you hammer it in place.

[Brodie Brickey]

Soften a piece of brass rod by heating it and allowing to slowly cool.
Place one end in a vise sticking up.
Tap it with a hammer to round and fatten the head.
Insert the rod into the handle mark the length of the rod where it comes out the other end and leave 1/16" proud.
Cut at mark.
Apply epoxy as necessary.
Re-insert rod into handle, tap 'just cut end' with hole punch to fatten the head.

Rivet is installed.