sliding bevel

[greg Forster]

Where can I buy a quality, small, 2 -3", all metal sliding bevel? Searching machinist and model maker hasn't uncovered anything. I don't want wood because I'm using in metal-working.

[Andy Hsieh]

sliding bevel at those sizes are tough - I have only seen one or 2 and they were vintage on walts site - I think Lee Valley has some but they may be in the 4 inch size but you want the all metal - I wish I could remember the month to dig up the pic.

[Jim Koepke]

Maybe as a metal worker you could make one.

I am not sure how the Stanley #18 works, but it is all metal and some think it is the best one Stanley ever made.

Search on that and you will find some for sale. Keep an eye open and the size you want may come up on ebay or from some other seller. A quick look in the John Walter book says the smallest size was 6".

Search on > bevel gauge < or > sliding bevel < > sliding bevel 2" < found this:

http://www.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/302-1733.html

It isn't all metal.

The > 2 < will catch things with 1/2 in the listing.

Just did a search on > machinist sliding bevel < sorry your too late for this one, but they are out there:

http://blog.lostartpress.com/2010/08/18/SOLD+Small+Machinists+Sliding+Bevel.aspx

The "cuter than socks on a squirrel" makes me think of a particular person I have heard use that phrase.

Searching is an art, finding is a pleasure.

jtk

[Russell Sansom]

I have a dandy Starrett (+ peculiar protractor) but I think it might be 6". Too cold for me to walk out to the shop right now at 1:50 AM.

Is it possible they make a smaller one? You could cut down the 6" !!! Why not?

[John Powers]

Southerland tool makes some very nice brass gauges. Not sliding unfortunately but well made. I have a little one in my pocket for building a little boat.

[Steve Kirincich]

I think Chris Vesper in Australia make some nice ones. Expensive but well-reviewed.

Steve

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I'm looking at my Disston No. #3 Bevel; which works like the Stanley 18. I'll post some take apart photos in a moment, but it looks like a bevel of this type (aren't the new Shinwa's that TFWW sells basically the same design?) could be cut down, as was mentioned above, and still work totally fine.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Here's the complete bevel. Disston No. 3, same idea as the Stanley 18, clamps from the rear so you don't have a knob interfering with things, and clamps tight. The screw on the top helps adjust the tension of the whole device, it's a little bit of an interplay, as it affects the tightness both when locked and unlocked.
185681

Here's the parts disassembled. As you can see, there's no threading or anything at the wingnut end of the locking rod.
185682

And here's a close up of the business end of things.
185683
The locking rod threads into the body of the gauge towards the pivot point. (The blade is offset so it doesn't interfere with the rod.) That beveled, heavy "washer" type disc mates with a similar bevel in the body of the thing. As you screw the rod into the body, the pointed end pushes the disc against the screw, pulling up the thinner bottom of the body to clamp the blade in place. Because all the work occurs at the pivot point, you could in theory cut it shorter. The only issue of course, is that if you cut it much shorter, the whole will fall apart, because the front and back of the bevel would no longer be attached.

Looking at the side of mine (no picture, sorry, camera battery died!) however, it's fairly obvious that rather than one piece of metal with a kerf in it, the two "sides" of the body are separate, held apart by a third piece slightly thicker than the blade of the gauge. I don't know how they're attached, I'd assume a weld?

Seems like you could modify this fairly easily. Of course, now that I type this all out, it occurs that modifying a conventional style gauge would be easier... But I like this style so much.

[John Sanford]

Check with Chris Vesper (https://www.vespertools.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=34)and see if he'd be willing to make one. His tools are gorgeous, and by all accounts, very, very good.

[Ryan Fee]

Lee Valley sells this one http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32595&cat=1,42936,50298,43508

I received it as a Christmas gift a couple of years ago, but returned it as I didn't really have a need for it and wasn't thrilled with the fit or finish. If you needed something this compact, it would would get the job done.

[John Powers]

I have that one. I lost the little brass one from southland tool and needed a little one. I was surprised at how, how to say this nicely, how basic it was. I kept it, filed the wing nut to keep it inside the plane of the body. I found the little brass one I like so well in my apron pocket of all places. That little lv sliding bevel works does not cost much but is definitely not up to their standard. Mind you, the australian ones are really jewelry....not tools.

[Mike Cozad]

Here is one at Woodcraft that has a blade of 6" but the body is only about 3". Hope this helps.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020231/20933/6-Stainless-Steel-Sliding-Bevel.aspx

Mike

[Steve Thomas]

Check with Chris Vesper (https://www.vespertools.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=34)and see if he'd be willing to make one. His tools are gorgeous, and by all accounts, very, very good.

I'd get a vesper tool any day of the week if i had the cash. awesome!

[Mark Baldwin III]

I just saw that Crown makes one in that size. Are you set on getting one that's all metal?

[Trevor Walsh]

Starret has a gorgeous little number that I love for dovetail work. It's the No. 15 Universal Bevel. The long leg of it is about 3" and can layout the complimentary angle too which comes in handy sometimes. They come up on the Bay occasionally.
188095

[Adam Cherubini]

Chris Vesper is the way to go. I have one of his tiny sliding bevels and it's a jewel. I told Chris he should market his layout tools to hobby machinists and metal workers. His products are really better than Starrett. They are hand made versions of Starrett, more beautiful and more accurate.

The bevel I have has essentially no slop or play. And the stock and the blade are precision ground to be perfectly parallel (allowing you to use any side of it, something I would never do with a woodworking bevel or square). The locking system is brilliant.

Chris' tools are SO nice, I expect them to be collectors items someday. I'm going to get some more bits from him next chance I get.

Adam
P.S. I have no business affliation with Chris. But I know him and like him. I just think his tools are fantastic.

[greg Forster]

Adam, I agree with you 100% ( I don't think that has ever happened before;))
Chris Vesper's tools are not just "works of art", but "works of art" that actually work.

The #15 Universal Bevel is close to what I'm looking for. I'll see what's for sale.

I came across this quote which I think says it all:"I think the only difference between American Made tools and Asian imports are the design, materials used, processing, workmanship, and fit and finish" aerodark- Practical Machinist.com

[John Sanford]

I came across this quote which I think says it all:"I think the only difference between American, Canadian and Australian Made tools and Asian imports are the design, materials used, processing, workmanship, and fit and finish" aerodark- Practical Machinist.com

Fixed it for ya! :cool:

I'm probably gonna drop some semi-serious dough tomorrow on a Vicmarc scroll chuck. I could get the Grizzly knock-off for 40% the cost, but the differences above will always be jeering very quietly in the back of my mind whenever I use it.

Buy smart, i.e. once.