Which Forrest blade to order?

[Bob Johnson2]

I'd like to try a Forrest TS blade (it's been strongly suggested) on a CS I'm about to order, from what I've read the blades give you a very smooth finish. Being that they are available in 40 or 60 tooth. which do you use for the "smooth" cut? Or do you use both, swapping as needed. For the price and convienience I'd prefer to run just one (probably the 40T) but not if that defeats the purpose.

By the way, do you guys find yourselves over evaluating large purchases? I can't beleive the time I've put in determining which CS I want, I just finished doing the same for a planer. I didn't spend this much time picking a house... Seems every time I read a negitive on what I finally decided on I start all over again.:confused:

[Jim Becker]

Either the 30T or 40T WW-II is what you want on a table saw. It will give you squeaky-clean near-burnished cross cuts and very nice rips in material up to about an inch and a half. (I leave mine on for thicker cuts sometimes if it's just a quicky and just feed it slower)

Keep in mind that when you are looking at other folks' comments on a particular tool that you want to look for trends, not one-off negatives. There will always be someone that will pan an otherwise great product simply because they got up on the wrong side of the perch (as we say about our birds...) or because they had expectations that exceeded the possibilities for the given tool. When you see a lot of negatives, so a little slower on that one and ask more specific questions in the forums, such as here at SMC.

[Greg Mann]

You didn't indicate what size blade you will be ordering. I have a 10 inch WWII 40 tooth thin-kerf blade. This is a good all-around blade. As you indicated, you will get other opinions and other recommendations. That should not drive you nuts, even though it probably will. Here is how I look at it. If several people, who generally tend to sound logical in the things they say in posts about which I have some knowledge, claim to get good results with a product, then I now know of one that should work for me. After a deliberation process, I make a decision and then, usually, quit pouring over new posts about which one to buy. In the end, it probably makes little difference if I buy the 10 inch Makita slider or the equivalent Bosch, for example. They are both as good as I am likely to be, BUT, if I keep reading about them, I MAY begin to second guess myself instead of enjoying the tool. BTW, I bought one of the two but I am not saying which one because, like I said, it doesn't make any difference.;)

Greg

[Bob Johnson2]

Thanks Guys, I'll go for the 40T for the 10". Now I'll call it and the saw in quick before I hear something to the contrary.

[Mac McAtee]

A couple of Frued guys did a presentation at our local WW club a week or so ago. They did a demo using the Frued 10" thin kerf blade. It made a cut as smooth as any cut I have ever seen from a Forrest blade.

Next time my money goes on a TS blade it will be for one of those. Half the price, even a little more than half, of Forrest.

[scott spencer]

Hi Bob - I've got a 40T WWII TK. It's a pretty impressive blade! I'll swap it out for a 24T ripping blade for heavy stuff, mostly to keep it fresh, b/c the WWII will rip surprisingly well until you get into really thick stock. I haven't noticed the deflection problems that some have with a TK. Some folks will suggest staying with the full kerf, and that might be fine, but Forrest will suggest a TK for a saw < 3hp.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Am I too late? Get the 30 tooth. You won't need a special ripping blade, and I doubt you'll ever 'need' an endgrain finish better than the 30T will provide. I have a pair of 30T that ony come off the saw when the dado goes on.

KC

[Ken Salisbury]

My recommendation would be a WWII regular kerf. I have been exclusively using Forrest blades for 15 years on all my saws (RAS, TS, CMS's) and would never considerer anything else.