PDA

View Full Version : First HF, could use some help on where to go now..



Brent Grooms
03-07-2011, 6:22 AM
I have been doing a quite a few bowls and platters lately and thought I should try something different so I looked around thru the wood pile and found a smaller piece of walnut crotch that looked promising. With it in hand, I finally dug out my DP Stinger/Scorp stuff that I bought well over a year ago. I had no issue getting the bits (Stinger) set up although the set screws are a little small.

I got the form that I have in my head to come out and with a few bits of anxiety, have the upper third hollowed with some more to be done. I am guessing that I will be pushing the limits of the 7/16in bar at 5-6in off the rest (that should be about the level of the bottom) leaving me about an inch to 1.5in at the base for ballast. The opening at just over an inch is pretty small when you put the cutter thru it.:eek: I think I have my bits set correctly as I do get some nice "ribbons" (shear/scrape) instead of just powder.

My quandry is... since this is my first go at them, Where do I go from here? After finishing the hollowing do I apply my finish of choice and part off the bottom? On my bowls, I would usually reverse vac chuck to clean up the bottom and ad a bit of detail. Do you normally follow suit with the HF's?

Lastly, design wise... the more I look at this, the more I think it should have a finial lid. Any suggestions/comments? Suggestions for material on a finial to look good with this piece?

IRC, the finished bowl was the other part of the blank that I am currently working with, but it got the short end of the stick (somewhat) when it came to the feathering grain.

John Keeton
03-07-2011, 6:40 AM
Brent, congrats on the first HF. That is certainly a beautiful piece of walnut! And, I think you are correct, the HF has a much better figure - but, the bowl is very, very nice.

I normally finish off the bottom of my HFs with some detailing, however, I have not yet done a vase form. I suspect you would want tailstock support on that piece with a vacuum chuck, then sand off the remaining nub.

This piece would probably look fine without a lid/finial, but could easily go either way. In the pic it appears to have a little bit of flat area in the middle third, and while I like larger bottoms, most would probably tell you to reduce the size of the bottom and roll the curve in somewhat. That is what I see posted often regarding what folks are looking for.

Jim Burr
03-07-2011, 8:31 AM
Well done vase Brent! Lot's of great feather in both pieces. I'll reverse it with a pad in the chuck and the tail stock brought up. Carefully work away the tenon until I have just a nib. You can knock that off with a hand chisel, sand and finish.

bob svoboda
03-07-2011, 9:15 AM
Good job, especially for a first. Yes, I think you are getting close to the limit of the 'Stinger'. Good advice so far on finishing the bottom. I'll be interested to see what others say-always looking for that magic solution.

Curt Fuller
03-07-2011, 10:03 AM
Wow, those are both some nice pieces. That bowl looks great with the finish.
As for finishing the HF, I would bring the curve in just a smidgeon at the bottom just to keep the curve flowing. It seems to straighten out as it is. Other than that, it's a beautiful form. I also agree that it would look good with a nice finial.

Bernie Weishapl
03-07-2011, 10:04 AM
Great job on your first HF. I use a donut chuck to finish the bottom of my HF's. I agree that it would look fine without a finial but you could go either way. I definitely would make the bottom slightly smaller with a nice curve from the shoulder down taking out that flat spot. Your bowl is really nice and the finish looks great.

David E Keller
03-07-2011, 11:01 AM
Nice job. I like the form you've got, but my eye seems to hang up at about the mid point of the form... It may just be the photo, but I sense a little change in the curve there. It's a beautiful piece of wood, and I'd probably finish it without a finial.

You can certainly part it off if you'd like. Alternatively, you could reverse it with the tailstock for support using small jaws inside the opening or a cone shaped 'drive center'. If you choose the latter, you're left with a little 'nubbin' that will need attention after removing it from the lathe.

Looking forward to seeing the finished photos.