Tear out is kicking my backside...

[Matt Ranum]

I working on planing some QS White Oak down to thickness for a project. This stuff has some nice flecking in it but it also has a bunch of reversing grain in it as well. Needless to say there are a couple spots that are giving me some tear out issues. I'm using old Stanleys. #5 for roughing it down then switching to a #4. Irons were sharpened scary sharp method and I could shave with them so they are fairly sharp. I have the mouth on the #4 open about 1/16" at the most, any tighter and I was getting some clogging. The depth is set very very light. I tried a #3 but the #4 was working better.

I've read some talk of secondary bevels, would that help in this case? I have 2 other #4's so experimenting with an iron isn't a big issue.


Sure would hate to fire up the 'ol Belsaw to do the job.;)

[Dave Beauchesne]

Matt:

A ' back bevel ' will make the angle of attack steeper - you have a fixed 45* angle, so adding a 5* bevel to the non-beveled side of the blade will increase the angle of the blade the wood sees to 50*. Going too far can negate any gains; getting up to 52* should be a help ( a 7* back bevel ) but make sure you are truly sharp.

Good luck;

Dave Beauchesne

[Stephen Pereira]

I know what you are talking about..reversing grain is a PITA. You might have to use a card scraper or a plane with steeper pitch..or, heaven forbid, ROS

[Mike Brady]

A scraper like a #80 or a scraper plane might be the only hope. That is the reason I bought my first premium plane years ago; for QSWO. The guy at the Lie-Nielsen booth was demonstrating a #85 on white oak. Sold.

[Paul Incognito]

I just made a cabinet door from QSWO and the only way I could get a nice finish without sanding was with a scraper. A #80 did the trick. Left a smooth, almost glass surface.
Paul

[Matt Ranum]

I was thinking I may have to resort to a scraper. Now, since I don't have one I just have to figure out which old saw is going to be sacrificed to make one. :p and I have plenty its hard not to pick them up at garage sales for .50 ;)

[Chris Fournier]

Get a plant mister bottle with water in it or even a very damp rag. Wet down the trouble spot, let it sit for a couple minutes and then try to plane it. This will often help with the real nasty stuff!

[Prashun Patel]

Have you tried going across grain around the switchy area?
Some other things to check:

On yr #4, is the chip breaker set close to the cutting edge? The closer the better.
If yr bevel angle is 25 degrees, you can try putting a secondary bevel - not a back bevel - at 30 degrees or even higher. I have a plane that has a blade sharpened at 50 degrees (granted it's a bevel up plane, so it's apples and oranges) but I do know that as the cutting angle increases, the plane acts less like a chisel and more like a scraper. It can help.

A card or cabinet scraper WILL work, but there's a learning curve there.

[James Scheffler]

I'll add a vote for the No. 80 cabinet scraper. I bought mine because of a QSWO project that didn't want to play nicely with any of my planes. The No. 80 did an outstanding job.

Jim S.

[Matt Ranum]

I have tried running across the grain with limited success. Although the more I skewed the angle the better the result. I have the chip breaker set about 1/32 to the blade edge.

Great suggestions all around guys. I'll try the secondary bevels and the moisture to see what works for me.


Thanks for the help!




Have you tried going across grain around the switchy area?
Some other things to check:

On yr #4, is the chip breaker set close to the cutting edge? The closer the better.
If yr bevel angle is 25 degrees, you can try putting a secondary bevel - not a back bevel - at 30 degrees or even higher. I have a plane that has a blade sharpened at 50 degrees (granted it's a bevel up plane, so it's apples and oranges) but I do know that as the cutting angle increases, the plane acts less like a chisel and more like a scraper. It can help.

A card or cabinet scraper WILL work, but there's a learning curve there.

[Mark Wyatt]

Water with a high mineral content will stain white oak. I'd recommend distilled water for this application.

[James Scheffler]

Water with a high mineral content will stain white oak. I'd recommend distilled water for this application.

Or denatured alcohol.

[Terry Beadle]

You can also try a back bevel at a higher pitch as long as you don't go beyond a total 65 degrees or so. Be sure you are only taking 1 thou or less thick savings in the difficult areas.

The 80, properly set up, will do a great job.

You are on the right track with attempting a slicing cut rather than a bust through it stroke. Put some English on the stroke and follow the grain as much as you can. Even if the grain changes in a 1/2 inch, lift the stroke and take the matching cut in the direction dictated by the grain.