Floor Jack

[Peter Stahl]

Anyone buy a good floor jack for <$200. The one I have must have a seal going bad because it will very slowly go down. Any brands to stay away from (e.g. HF)? I don't use one a lot but when I do I want it to work. OH yeah, looking for a 2/3 ton jack.

thanks, Pete

[Dan Hintz]

Ironically enough, the best jack I've ever owned was one from Costco... same jack as sold by HF, but Costco has a lifetime warranty on the purchase. Possibly luck of the draw, but other than bleeding it of air once a year, it has been a champ. I specifically chose this one because it was the lowest I could find, and I needed every spare inch to get under my lowered S2000.

[Stephen Tashiro]

I've noticed that some people really torque the handles of floor jacks tight when they go to close the valve and jack something up. To me, this seems unwise, even though it may be psychologically reassuring given the stakes involved. Most floor jacks are based on bottle jacks and I wouldn't put some crazy torque on the valve of a bottle jack.

[Scott T Smith]

I have a low profile Carquest floor jack that I bought on sale several years ago. It's provided great service.

Usually, if your jack is a good quality model, you can have the hydraulics rebuilt for a reasonable amount.

[Dave Ogren]

I bought one from WW Grainger in 1968 for about $125.00 a lot of money then, but still perfect. My son bought one from Walmart about a year ago has slowly leaked since new. Who's do you think they always go to ?? Quality is important.

Dave

[Jason Roehl]

Just to toss this out there. You should NEVER, EVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER get under a vehicle that you have jacked up if you do not have jack stands underneath it. I have one that I bought 6+ years ago from (I think) Pep Boys because I had bought a 3/4-ton truck and needed one with extra height capacity. I think it cost somewhere between $80-100, and the valve is integral to the handle. I always lower it fully when I'm done, and close the valve so that it's ready to go (presumably if the valve is closed, no contamination, if present, could settle between the valve and its seat). The only downside is that it's kind of large and heavy, but I didn't want to spend $300 for a racing-style jack that would be much lighter with the same lifting reach and weight capacity. I think the weight capacity on this one is either 2 or 3 tons, so I can jack up one end of whatever vehicle I'm working on at a time, instead of just a corner. That way, the jack also isn't in the way of setting the jack stands.

[Callan Campbell]

Floor jacks seem to have their ups and downs in build quality, esp with so much of the easily bought jacks all being made overseas. It's just not like it used to be out there with well made jacks available everywhere 30 years ago. Plus 1 on getting a better known or name brand jack if you want any parts or service to be fairly easy for it down the road. From what the hydraulic repair people tell me, many of the jacks may LOOK the same, but the seal and machining quality is pretty varied, even within a brand from year to year. If you're not worried about service life with a floor jack, then a deal like Dan H. posted, with a lifetime warranty on the jack, might be the way to go. Totally agree with Jason on the life saving importance of correct jack stand usage[and please buy GOOD jack stands, not junk] Getting crushed by the rusty car you're working on is not how I'd want to go.......

[Pat Germain]

You might check your local NAPA store. They often run specials on NAPA brand floor jacks. I'm pretty sure those are made in the USA.

[Peter Stahl]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I definitely won't go under a car without jack stands.

[Matt Meiser]

Mine is from Sears, about 15 years ago. Its heavy and not very low profile but it works great and doesn't leak. It came with some nice solid heavy steel jackstands too.

[charlie knighton]

i only use my floor jack for raising one end of my lathe. it was a suggestion in the woodturning forum, and an excellant idea.

since i do not get under the lathe, just adjust the legs screws when the lathe gets out of wack, i bought one that has a limit of about 1500 lbs. it was all i need, seems to me it was about $35

i bought it at O'Reilly Auto Parts

[Dave Wagner]

I had a HF for many years, I think it was 2.5 Ton capacity, I think it was only $69 or $79 with free shipping. It worked great until the seal went, it wouldn't pump up. I bought a 3 ton Sears (with free jack stands) I think for under $100. It's been great! It's a Fast pump, one pump it raises up to the item and then it goes slow. Good luck.

[Erik France]

A few years ago I picked up a Husky, low profile, dual piston, floor jack from Pep-Boys. I think it was rated for 3500 lbs though. I believe it was around $150 or so, it might have been more.

I've had several other floor jacks, most of them cheap 2 1/2 ton or less. The husky has been great. Real quick lift with the dual pistons and long handle. I can get it under most anything over 2" from the ground. Good casters. It's all steel, a bit on the heavy side to pick up. The wider cradle is nice, it adds to the jacking stability. Well worth the money overall and a pleasure to use.

[Callan Campbell]

You might check your local NAPA store. They often run specials on NAPA brand floor jacks. I'm pretty sure those are made in the USA.
I have heard that the Chinese company that bought the name/ rights to the old Hein-Warner name will now make them in the USA. I have a NAPA floor jack, only 2 years old, but it could be made in China. Now I want to go check the label and see.