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Jim Summers
03-05-2011, 5:35 PM
Hello All,

I am putting together a new two track tablesaw sled. I used my old one-track sled to mostly cut long pieces to the right of the blade. So I am trying tune this one with that as the main use.

I am using the five cut method to set the fence. It shows rotating the workpiece clockwise or into the blade for each cut. It is on the left side of the blade, and since I am on the right side of the blade should I be rotating counter-clockwise or does it even matter?

I was wonder since the A-B calculations determine which way to adjust the fence. Also how does one move a fence (A-B)/4?? I mean how can I tell I have moved a fence .002???

TIA

glenn bradley
03-05-2011, 5:50 PM
You start with one straight side on your sample board against the fence, make a cut, rotate the board so that the edge left by the cut you just made is now against the fence, repeat.

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/five_cut_method_swf.htm

John TenEyck
03-05-2011, 8:16 PM
Also how does one move a fence (A-B)/4?? I mean how can I tell I have moved a fence .002???


I'm assuming your fence is held only by one screw near each end as you tune it. Also, it needs to sit in an inch or so from the back of the sled for this to work. Assuming both those conditions exist, you can screw a small block to the sled behind your fence at one end. Put a 0.020" or so feeler gage in between the block and the fence when you attach the block. Now you can adjust that end of the fence in or out by changing the thickness of the feeler gage. A little math will tell you how much 0.001" change in the shim will be on your test cut piece.

Myk Rian
03-05-2011, 8:24 PM
It's actually a 4 cut method. Some magazine reporter got it wrong, so we are stuck with a 5 cut method.

glenn bradley
03-05-2011, 9:17 PM
It's actually a 4 cut method. Some magazine reporter got it wrong, so we are stuck with a 5 cut method.

:D:D:D I always assumed the 5th cut was the one to remove the strip for checking. It couldn't be the fisrt cut to create the initial refenrence edge, then it would be the 6 cut method :confused:


Also how does one move a fence (A-B)/4?? I mean how can I tell I have moved a fence .002???

I just loosen one end, give it a tap and tighten it back down. My fence has four bolts. I loosen all, snug one end to act as a pivot, snug the rest to test. Loosen 3, tap, snug, test. Loosen 3, tap, snug, test.

doug faist
03-05-2011, 9:34 PM
I mean how can I tell I have moved a fence .002???

TIA

Jim - I've been a hobbiest-type woodworker for nearly 40 years now and have yet to have a project succeed or fail because of a difference of .002". On my crosscut table that the difference in whether it's a hot or cold day.

Don't drive yourself crazy with the adjustments; go make some sawdust!

Have some FUN with your project.

Doug

Jim Summers
03-06-2011, 9:48 AM
Jim - I've been a hobbiest-type woodworker for nearly 40 years now and have yet to have a project succeed or fail because of a difference of .002". On my crosscut table that the difference in whether it's a hot or cold day.

Don't drive yourself crazy with the adjustments; go make some sawdust!

Have some FUN with your project.

Doug

I agree. I like to get things close as possible initially then once I am done I will leave it until I find a need to re-tune.

In the five cut test it says that if a<b then the fence is >90 degrees. If I am on the right side of the fence, would that be <90?

I guess I should just move to the left for the tuning and then see what it yields on the right?

Thanks