Chainsaw question

[Laurie Brown]

I bought a small Stihl chainsaw with easy start about a year and a half ago. (And I just LOVE it!) My question is, how often should I have to sharpen/replace the chain? I don't use it that much, but it seems like after just cutting down a few small trees it starts burning wood. Is that normal? Could it be something other than the chain?

Also, as a side question, what can I apply to a stump to prevent the tree from growing back?

[Russell Smallwood]

Chain sharpening is basically a part of using a chain saw. I sharpen mine every time I drag it lit of the shed.

I can get 3-4 hours of a single sharpen (more if I don 't mind working twice as hard for each cut).

Running your chain through the dirt is as good as running it through a block of aluminum, time to resharpen.

[Anthony Whitesell]

My father and I have been cutting 6 month dried logs for fire wood for as long as I can remember. Typically we have used 16-18 inch bars on the saw and, in our experience, the chain needs a touch up after the first tank and a good sharpening after a second. My brother and father have recently gotten some saws with longer bars (24-30") and they don't make it though a tank before they're kaput.

[Mike Davis NC]

Did you have plenty of chain and bar oil in the reservoir? A dry chain will burn wood, and ruin the chain and bar and sprocket.

Don't forget to put oil in the chain oiler.

[Dave Cav]

First of all, congratulations on getting a Stihl. You have solved 90% of your problems right there. As the others have said, sharpening a chainsaw is part of having one. You have several options. You can get a couple of extra chains, and swap them out as they get dull. When you are down to your last sharp chain, take the others in for sharpening. Or, you can go to the place where you bought the saw, get a couple of appropriately sized files, and learn to file the chain yourself. The guys at the saw store may even be able to show you how, since Stihl only sells through specialized distributors, not big box or hardware stores. There is also a ton of information on the web on sharpening chainsaws. Like the others have said, I usually touch up my chain after each tank, and do a more thorough sharpening after every cutting session. Usually.

[keith ouellette]

If you run a file over it after every tank you'll be good and it will be easy to sharpen because it won't be very dull. After a while you may need to file the guides down a tiny bit. They are the things that look like shark fins that stick up in front of each saw tooth. They gauge the depth the cutter digs into the wood. I wouldn't worry about that right now.

Look at the saw dust the saw is throwing. If it is just dust the chain is very dull. It should be throwing chips out and not just fine dust.

Make certain the chain is not to tight. You should just be able to pull it from the bar with little effort.

You mention burning wood.
Make certain your chain break isn't on. It is a common mistake with many new saw owners. If its starting to make extra smoke after cutting a short time then I bet its on and heating up the sprocket cuff. That could damage your saw after a while. There is a guard right in front of the handle. It is also the break lever. Pull it towards the handle and you will hear a "cluinck" sound as it sprigs out of locked position. It may have tripped while you were using it and you didn't notice. Its a safety feature to prevent kick back. Its not meant to lock the chain down when you leave the saw idling. The chain should stop on its own when idling.

If you want to kill a stump just brush some full strength round up on it after a fresh cut. The red or the orange cap round up. Not the purple because that is already diluted.

[Scott T Smith]

Laurie, in addition to the comments already made, unless you use a good quality synthetic 2-cycle oil in your mix, be sure to throw out any fuel (including what is in the chainsaw tank) after 30 days. I recycle mine back into my farm vehicles.

The oil starts to break down after being mixed for 30 days, and if you use old mix you can ruin your saw.

[Larry Edgerton]

If you want the stumps to rot faster drill a hole/holes in the stump and fill with a high nitrogen fertilizer. I use the tip of the chain saw to make the holes, but if you are new to saws I would do it with a drill and a 1" auger bit.

Check baileysonline.com for all the cool gizmos..........

[Laurie Brown]

First of all, congratulations on getting a Stihl. You have solved 90% of your problems right there. As the others have said, sharpening a chainsaw is part of having one. You have several options. You can get a couple of extra chains, and swap them out as they get dull. When you are down to your last sharp chain, take the others in for sharpening. Or, you can go to the place where you bought the saw, get a couple of appropriately sized files, and learn to file the chain yourself. The guys at the saw store may even be able to show you how, since Stihl only sells through specialized distributors, not big box or hardware stores. There is also a ton of information on the web on sharpening chainsaws. Like the others have said, I usually touch up my chain after each tank, and do a more thorough sharpening after every cutting session. Usually.

I had a Craftsman at first due to limited budget, and had nothing but problems with it. It was nearly impossible to start, then after a while it wouldn't stay running. It finally started leaking fluids out of it, so I took it to a repair center where I was told 'that's normal'. Umm, normal for a chainsaw to be sitting in a puddle of its own fluids in the case? Not. If that's normal, I don't want that saw. So, I chucked the new boat anchor in a corner and decided my next chainsaw would be a REAL one. I did some research, because I wanted something that I wouldn't have to wrestle with for 15 minutes just to start every time I wanted to use it.

I didn't realize the chain needed to be sharpened that often. I will probably get an extra chain or two to keep around. Is it very difficult to sharpen yourself? I've never sharpened any tools myself. Yes, I make sure all fluids are topped off every time before I use it.

[Russell Smallwood]

So, I chucked the new boat anchor in a corner and decided my next chainsaw would be a REAL one.

You chose wisely :)


I didn't realize the chain needed to be sharpened that often. I will probably get an extra chain or two to keep around. Is it very difficult to sharpen yourself? I've never sharpened any tools myself. Yes, I make sure all fluids are topped off every time before I use it.

A couple of extra chains is a good thing but if you're going to be using it often, you really need to learn to sharpen the chain. It isn't hard, you can get chain files pretty much anywhere, you just have to pick the right size for the chain you have. You can buy sharpening kits that include a cheap file guide that will make it pretty foolproof if you take your time and follow the directions.

When you get good at it, you can skip the guide and do it free hand. It's really not hard, just tedious, and like most learned skills, you'll probably have to do it a couple of times before you get it right. I will say that there's nothing quite like the satisfaction you feel the first time you do a good sharpening job on your chain and it cuts through something like butter :)

[Matt Woessner]

For killing your stump good get you a bottle of Tordon from the local farm supply. Keep in mind if one ounce will do, well then the entire bottle ought to do the trick! On second thought use as directed.

[Mike Davis NC]

I use the $6 Oregon hand filing guide and a file, be sure to get the right size for your chain. That's all you need and it is not hard to do. Stihl has instructions on their web site. It only takes a few minutes if you do it after every hour or so of cutting. Just two or three strokes on each tooth. I always use the guide, not because I can't hold the angle but because a consistant height of the file on each tooth makes a big difference in the ease of cutting. And it is just easier and faster to use the guide.

[Chip Lindley]

Hand-filing is for the birds! I have a small Sears rechargable chain saw sharpener (Dremel tool) that is good for one sharpening of a 20" chain out in the woods. I have another that clamps to truck battery terminals, and can be used infinito!

Meanwhile back at the shed, I have a Craftsman die grinder with 1/8" collet insert that holds the same cylindrical sharpening "rocks". Different saws need different diameter "rocks", easily attainable at farm supply dealers like Tractor Supply Co.

One touch of the chain in the dirt, a rock, or barbed wire, and a sharpening is needed immediately. A dull chain can be noted by looking at the outer edge and point of each tooth. Dull teeth are rounded off at the point and reflect lots of light! (Ughh!) If I am careful not to touch anything but hardwood with a fresh chain, I can cut continuously for half a day with it. But, time to sharpen or change chains at dinnertime!

[Dave Lehnert]

Go to your dealer and get a set of files and sharping guide. I got a Stihl set made for my saw for like $15.
My dealer says (Kinda tongue and cheek) ""If you're not sharping 3 times an hour, you're not sharp"


http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3

[Ryan Griffey]

Three times an hour or even every tankfull is a ridiculous amount of sharpening in my book. I routinely run Stihl 46/66 magnums. If the wood is clean I can cut all day and then some. A flat file for the rakers about every other sharpening will help the saw pull through the cut on its own. If the saw is large enough do yourself a favor and get a couple of skiptooth chains for it. If you run the saw hard make sure and supplement by lubing the tip of the bar with some gun oil. One last thing, let the chain cool for a bit before going at it with a file.

[ken gibbs]

I have used Stihl chain saws for almot 35 years and they are worth the money. You can tell if your chain is starting to get dull when it does not cut straight. By that I mean when you are culting a log and the saw kerf wants to cut to the right instead of cutting straight through the cut.

I use powdered milk in the 1" holes you drill in the tops of the stump if you want to accelerate rotting out the stump.

[Ronald Blue]

Regardless of the saw brand a sharp chain is essential to good saw performance. It's easy to tell when a chain is getting dull from the chips that are coming out the discharge. As was previously mentioned a dull chain produces small or even sawdust discharge and won't be going through the log with ease anymore. Unless you hit something like wire, a rock or even dirt usually a chain will last easily 2-3 tanks of gas. Any dealer that would recommend 2-3 sharpenings an hour wants to sell you chains to improve his bottom line. It is easy o maintain a chain with a file. Your dealer should be happy to show you the basics.

[Mike Davis NC]

I mostly cut dead locust for firewood. There ain't no way you can go all day cutting that stuff without hitting the teeth a few strokes of the file.

If I was only cutting green maple or pine then yeah I could see cutting a day or two between sharpening.

My practice has always been (with all my tools) sharpen before it gets dull and only remove the least metal possible to keep it in good shape.

I knew one shop around here that would grind a saw chain maybe 4 or 5 times then it was toast. I probably file mine 30 or 40 times in the life of the chain. Maybe more, I never counted.