Edge gluing Ipe?

[Rob Price]

Okay, so I posted a gloat about some Ipe I scored for $2/bf a few weeks ago. I found a friend who had left over T&G ipe from his covered deck, and he gave me enough for two more chairs FOR FREE!!!. Problem is, they started with the same 5 1/4 decking and then put the tongue and groove on it, so by the time I rip off the tongue and groove I have a little over 4.5" to work with. I'm using the "Norm" adirondack plan with a few modifications (see my other posts) but I need some wider pieces.

I do have a freud reversible edge bit (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-031-2-Inch-Reversible-Joint/dp/B0000225XN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299262111&sr=8-1)to increase surface area and help with line up. I've read about wiping the oils off with acetone before gluing. Titebond says it's waterproof and I think I remember reading a review where Titebond III held up as well as other polyurethane glues on other woods without the foamy mess.

The parts would be the diagonal legs- I certainly could make the legs out of the 4.5" pieces, the wood is plenty strong, but I want it to match the chair I just made out of the 5.25" stuff, so I would add the 3/4 strip along the bottom, it wouldn't be structural in any way- the seat slats/legs/cross members would all attach to the solid piece up top.

Then there's the arms. it's only the front part that needs the extra width, I would put the glue joint towards the outside- but I worry about that holding up over time. I can dowel it, would oak dowels eventually rot though?

Any experience from the experts around here?

[Craig Michael]

I've only messed around a bit with gluing ipe. I think over time you'd have some issues. The wood is just so tight, I just don't think the glue would bond very well. I would buy some wider pieces for the few that you would need for the legs, arms, etc. All the work just isn't worth the risk of it failing in a few years.

[Ron Kellison]

I would suggest epoxy. Specifically, I would recommend Industrial Formulators G2, available from Lee Valley. I'm confident that West and other manufacturers have equivalent products. You could probably glue up a dozen chairs with a quart of epoxy.

[Steve Jenkins]

I made some kitchen countertops from Ipe and glued them with titebond 3. No special joint just a good clean flat edge. No problems and it has been years.

[Steve knight]

I never tested epoxy as it was not practical but I found titebond 3 did ok but the joint would fail and not the wood. gorilla glue used to work well but it started going downhill.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have some Ipe posts that are laminated out of 5/4, holding 1/2" safety glass sheets on 8-11' spans of glass that make up the railing on this beach house, no top or bottom rail, just glass. It is a long drop to the ground, and it is facing Lake Michigan, so it takes an extreme beating. I check on this place every year to make sure all is well, as I don't want anyone getting hurt. So far no sign of any failures. 13 years so far.....

I used West System, cleaned just prior to glueup with acetone, and finished with Sikkens. Being as just the posts are carrying all of the weight of the glass, plus have to handle the incredible windloads that Lake Michigan can throw at it I did a lot of research with the help of the techs at West Systems, and this is what we came up with. If some drunk falls off the deck because of my railing, I am the one the lawyers will be after.

We could have just used solid posts, but were afraid of one warping in these extreme conditions. Temps here can swing 160 degrees in a year and humidity goes from nothing in the coldest days t 100% in the summer. The rabbits in the posts are all that hold the glass, so the posts needed to be strong and straight.

I actually wanted to use steel, but the homeowner insisted on wood.

SO..... other glues may work, but when I had to bet my reputation on it, I went with West System. They are boat builders first, and glue makers second, and they know their stuff.

[Rob Price]

Thanks for all the replies. This won't be a structural joint, and I can reinforce it with screws that will not be seen. I'll look into some of the epoxies mentioned. I think i have enough of the thicker stock to make the arms.