Best screws for face plate mounting?

[dirk martin]

Can someone point me to what you feel is the best screws to use for faceplate mounting, from McFeelys?

http://www.mcfeelys.com/

I'm not against getting an assortment, either.

[Richard Madden]

This would be a good one; http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/1012-FSL/10-x-1-14-Unplated-Steel-Flat-Head-Dry-Lube-Screws? In whatever length is needed. Don't use drywall screws, they can break with a catch. I've used them in the past, but do not recommend. Just look for a good steel screw in either phillips or square drive.

[Dick Wilson]

Dirk, I use heavy duty sheet metal screws 1" - 1 1/2" long. They have deep threads which give you a strong bite. You can buy them at any big box or hardware store. I pre-drill and use a inpact driver.

[Douglas Quetin]

I use sheet metal screws.

[Greg Just]

another vote for sheet metal screws - buy various lengths. They will last a long time.

[Ken Whitney]

I use McFeely's regular (no lube, no coating) square-drive screws for face plate mounting. So far, so good.

They are great general purpose screws around the shop as well.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use heavy duty sheet metal screws also.

[Dennis Ford]

+1 more on sheet metal screws, I like ones with a hex head. Drive them with a cordless drill

[Gary Conklin]

Ditto Sheet metal screws.

[Chip Sutherland]

sheet metal....never, ever....use dry wall screws.

[Dave Ogren]

I use 6 #14 x 1" sheet metal screws with 1/2" thick face plates. I double the number if it is an end grain. Some where in here is a post by Leo Van Der Loo that talks about the length of engagement that it takes to drive the wood.
I think that it would be worth finding.

Good luck,

Dave

[Don Geiger]

I hardly ever use a chuck and generally turn large pieces. After positioning the wood between centers to get what I want, I turn them into rough form and prepare a tenon for mounting the piece on a faceplate. I have had great success with McFeely's #14 square drive wood screws. I have four lengths of them and select which size to use depending on how big the piece is and what grain direction they need to screw into.

TIPS: Adjust the size of the holes in your faceplate to match the diameter of the screws you will be using. Also, counter sink the holes on the side of the faceplate facing the wood so the wood fibers that will be raised when the screws are put into place don't force the faceplate away from the surface of the tenon. Also, I use a centering bit made to drill pilot holes when installing butt hinges. I found one that has an o.d. the same as the i.d. of the holes in my faceplates. I use it to pre-drill pilot holes before installing the screws.

The square drive screws hold up much better than screws with Phillips heads. Every time I work at one of the woodturning schools I always find a can full of Phillips head screws- most with the heads stripped. I've never stripped a square drive screw. I take my square drive screws and , my Makita impact driver to install them.

I hope this has been of some help to you fellow turners.


Don Geiger

[Wally Dickerman]

One more vote for self tapping sheet metal screws. Also, square drive...much better than phillips. Usually #12.

[Allen stagg]

I use hex head metal screws without any problem. I turn the face of the wood to mount the faceplate at a slight concave to insure the faceplate squares against the wood and seat down squarely. Got this from I believe Lyle Jamieson if I remember. Works fantastic.

[Harry Robinette]

On heads I'm square drive all the way,but I turn allot of green wood so I use #12 sq.dr.stainless steel .I drill out my face plates to fit the bigger screws 10 years not a problem. IF you leave your piece on the plate more then overnight loosen the screws a little or they'll stick. I get long enough scerws to put 1 inch cross grain 1 1/2 inch end grain.

[Neil Strong]

Another vote for sheet metal srews.

Have many different sizes for different size blanks.

Have attached some very large (50lb+) blanks with them and never had one move.

Have also drilled out faceplate holes to take larger diam screws.

I find the hex heads fastest for power driving. No looking/feeling for the slot.
.

[Jake Helmboldt]

another vote for sheet metal screws - buy various lengths. They will last a long time.

yup, what they said.

[Jim Heikes]

I always use SPAX square drive wood screws #12 or #14 (1 1/2-3 inches) for faceplates., Never lost one in the wood yet. I also use Akempucky for really hard woods.

Jim

[Roland Martin]

I also like square drive screws for the same reasons Don gave. I always use sheet metal screws, as has been said, never, never, never use sheetrock screws, way too brittle.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Another fan of #14 sheet metal screws - have various lenghts.

A tip that many turners ignore... Before driving the screws, slightly countersink the pilot holes in order to avoid bulging the wood around the opening. This will help insure a nice snug fit between the waste block (or turning wood) and the metal faceplate. It’s al about reducing vibration.

[Neil Strong]

A tip that many turners ignore... Before driving the screws, slightly countersink the pilot holes in order to avoid bulging the wood around the opening. This will help insure a nice snug fit between the waste block (or turning wood) and the metal faceplate.

I countersunk all the holes on all my faceplates to solve the same problem, that way I only had to do it once. That's a lot of time saved if you are a production or semi-production turner...:cool:

While on tips, I don't bother with pilot holes in green wood... just power drive home, but always dab the screws in an old pot of wax finish (for both green and dry wood) to ease in and, more importantly for green wood if they are going to be in the wood for any length of time, on the way out....:D
.

[Michael Mills]

First, 1+ for McFeelys. I have used them for years and they are great. Depending on your faceplate you may be able use close to the minimum number per box (12-20?).
That said, I do use hex drive sheet metal screws from a hardware store. My 3" faceplate only takes six screws and I bought four different lengths.
Tip. I cut thin foam strips for each length of screw and pushed each set onto one of the strips. All four lengths can be kept in one zip-lock without mixing them.

[mickey cassiba]

I've searched through the threads related to faceplate screw mounting and have one question left. I've got a piece of very hard south american 'dunno wood' I recovered from a pallet. Will the sheet metal screws provide enough bite in end grain? My chuck is on the way but this piece of wood has been taunting me since I found it. It's about 2 5/8" square and 5 1/4" long. Around 1 1/2 lbs. I've got a chuck on the way, but I don't want to wait anymore. I will turn a tenon on one end for the inside work, but I'd like to get the outside started 'fore the idea leaves me. I've also considered a sacrificial plate on the faceplate with a single lag bolt into the center of the wood. I'm going to be boring the center out anyway, so no lost wood there. Am I overthinking this?