Saw Sharpening Questions (Newbie)

[Jonathan Spool]

I would like to learn how to join, sharpen, and set, my handsaws, and have a couple of questions:
What is the best DVD or book available that will best guide me through the process, and still be easy to follow?

Are filing guides, or vise filing guide combos, a good idea for a beginner?

[Jim Koepke]

Jonathan,

There is a tread started a few days ago on almost the same subject:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?160950

A lot of information in there.

Also try the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQ thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805

I think Bob Smalser has a couple of posts about making a saw vise and how to file saws.

Then there is also the library at Vintagesaws.com or articles at Norsewoodsmith.com to supply more information than one needs to get started.

jtk

[Jason Chestnut]

I would like to learn how to join, sharpen, and set, my handsaws, and have a couple of questions:
What is the best DVD or book available that will best guide me through the process, and still be easy to follow?

Are filing guides, or vise filing guide combos, a good idea for a beginner?

You know, a couple of shop-made blocks will work just fine. One is a block with a hole in it with the rake angle inscribed tangent to the hole. You jam the end of your file into that and hold the block parallel to the floor. This makes it easy to get your rake where you want it. The second block is a simple off-cut with a wide kerf in it at the fleam angle you want your saw at. You put the block over the teeth of the saw and file parallel to its near edge. That makes it easy to get your fleam right. You can do the same without either (some use a sliding bevel to judge fleam), but they are nearly free, easy to make, and really improve accuracy. It's hand-filed. Variation is going to happen. Might as well make it a little neater.

There are lots of online references to these types of jigs. Look at Pete Taran's website -- I think he covers them. http://www.vintagesaws.com (http://www.vintagesaws.com/)

[Jonathan McCullough]

Here's (http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/sawjig/index.html) one guide.

Thomas Lie-Nielsen himself did a video on youtube at the LN channel.

Start with a rip saw. They're easier to learn on. If it's rustly, clean it with mineral spirits and sandpaper. With an appropriate sized file, count the number of strokes you use to get down to fresh steel, starting with the heel and progressing to the toe. Use that same number of strokes on every gullet to keep the teeth roughly level. Not every tooth has to be exactly like the previous one in order for the saw to work effectively. When you're done, put some paraffin on the saw plate and try it. If the saw tracks left or right, first determine whether it's user error or not. If not, you can stone the side that it's pulling toward. If the saw is binding in the kerf, carefully set the teeth only very slightly. Do not set them so much that they look all splayed out; they'll be overset. Most saws I come across need cleaning and sharpening. Very few need setting. Almost none ever need jointing, but once you get proficient you can put a bit of belly on the tooth line. ALL my saws need better previous owners.

Let us know how you make out.

I've never used a guide.

[Johnny Kleso]

I own two guides maybe three and never use they..