Opinions on the Primus Reform Smooth Plane

[John Dingman]

Do any of you guys have any experience with the Primus Reform Smooth Plane.

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/planes/24p0401s2.jpg

And if so, what is your opinion of it. For the money can one do better for a smoother? LV sells them for $179.00. I haven't heard much about them here and I'd like some honest feedback. Pros/cons etc...
Thanks Guys!
John

[Mark Singer]

The Best...Period! It is a bit less at the Best Things>

[John Dingman]

The Best...Period! It is a bit less at the Best Things>Mark,

Thanks for the feedback! Do you have a link for the place you mentioned?

Thanks,
John

[John Miliunas]

Ditto to what Dr. Singer said!:D I took HIS recomendation on one several months ago and it really is a sweet piece! On mine, I did find that once I flattened the back and honed the iron a bit more, it performed extra nice. I'm real new to the Neander thing, so I had a bit of a time getting it tweaked in, but now, it works slick as all get out! :) Mark is also correct about getting it at Thebestthings. That would be a "dot com", BTW! :D :)

[Tom LaRussa]

Mark,

Thanks for the feedback! Do you have a link for the place you mentioned?

Thanks,
John
Here you go John.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/planes.htm

:)

[John Dingman]

Thanks Guys!

[Pam Niedermayer]

I used one for a night (borrowed from a classmate) a couple of years ago, and I really like it, truly an excellent plane. The best? I don't know. How do you define "best?" I tend to be partial to Japanese smoothers, they facilitate extremely smooth surfaces, which is why I didn't buy the ECE; but it sure seems better than metal smoothers.

Pam

[Bob Marino]

Why are wooden smoothers, Primus or others, prefered over the iron smoothers?

Bob

[Roger Bell]

I have had the Primus with the adjuster for several years (maybe ten) and really like it. IMO, it performs "as well as" for final smoothing than any of the Bailey pattern or LV pattern planes I have. The ease of adjustability of both the iron (especially....there is very little slop or backlash) and of the mouth is "superior" to the Bailey pattern and "as good" as LV's. The lignum sole glides over the wood like no waxed casted iron sole can. It is very easy to set up and very little is need in "tuning" (comparable to the LV's). For its rather modest price, I consider it a good value compared to quality new Bailey patterns and on par with LV. There are new production woodies out there that perform well and cost somewhat less, but lack the ease of the adjuster feature of the Primus Reform. The Primus is a probably a good way to get acquainted with wooden planes.

The potential negatives: This plane is indeed "different" than what you are probably used to.

Using the Bismark-style "horn" rather than a knob is something you may/may not like and may/may not get used to. Compared to cast iron and even some woodies, plane is very light in weight which you may/may not like. If you can, you might consider test driving to evaluate the plane's handling characteristics before you buy.

[John Miliunas]

Maybe I'm an "odd duck" (probably so:rolleyes: ), but I find the 711 to be real comfortable *pulling* through the material, as well! I'm really green to the whole hand tool thing, so maybe (probably so:rolleyes: ) it's because I just don't know no better! Either way, it's pretty comfy and does a nice job!:) :cool:

[Pam Niedermayer]

Why are wooden smoothers, Primus or others, prefered over the iron smoothers?

I think the resulting planed surface is superior. In the case of HNT Gordon and Japanese planes, it's probably mostly because of the thicker blades, much thicker; but that's not the only factor. There's something about the way the wooden sole compresses the wood in front of the blade and presents it to the blade, which also makes choosing the bedding angle for the wood being planed very important, as well as sharp blades and bevel angle. And then there are the 6' long, read-through thin shavings.

The ECE 711 I used as a pre-smoother. It produced an extremely smooth surface, but not as burnished as the Japanese/HNT. I wouldn't consider this a final judgement. The 711 wasn't mine, so I didn't have a chance to play with it in my shop; however, it does have thin blades.

Pam

[John Dingman]

Thanks to everyone for your input. I think I am going to go ahead with the purchase as a gentleman from another forum has one in like new condition that he wants to sell me for a very reasonable price since as he put it, he just has way too many planes. I didn't know that was possible :rolleyes: Do you think a thicker blade could be added to improve the already good performance?

Thanks again!
John

[Pam Niedermayer]

...Do you think a thicker blade could be added to improve the already good performance?

Thanks again!
John


I'd say not. Check out the plane at Dieter's (http://www.fine-tools.com/putzh.htm), then go to the operating instructions page (http://www.fine-tools.com/G301047.htm). You'll see the way the whole thing fits together would pretty much obviate using any other blade, much less a thicker one.

Pam

[Mark Singer]

John,

You don't need to change the blade or make any modifications. The Primus uses a spring tensioning mechanism that holds the capiron...with zero chatter. The blade is very fine steel. It really holds an edge. I have I have 5 different Primus Planes and they are all good. The best is the 711. It is a totally refined design and is amazing if it is set correctly. I have the English Jack and the smaller jack. I have the small block plane which I don't use that much and the monster Try plane...24" of solid beech. The 711 is set at a York pitch and it has an adjustable mouth. The weight in combination with the wood body makes it a real joy to use!


Thanks to everyone for your input. I think I am going to go ahead with the purchase as a gentleman from another forum has one in like new condition that he wants to sell me for a very reasonable price since as he put it, he just has way too many planes. I didn't know that was possible :rolleyes: Do you think a thicker blade could be added to improve the already good performance?

Thanks again!
John

[John Dingman]

Pam and Mark,

Thanks a bunch for the feedback.

John

[Pam Niedermayer]

You don't need to change the blade or make any modifications. The Primus uses a spring tensioning mechanism that holds the capiron...with zero chatter. The blade is very fine steel. It really holds an edge. I have ... the monster Try plane...24" of solid beech....

Yes, I agree, and didn't mean to assert that the ECE's need thicker blades. I also have the 24" jointer and use it as my main jointer. It's a real treat, especially compared to the Stanley/Record #7. The only plane I'd even consider using instead is the C&W, assuming I could afford this.

For a try plane I use the HNT Try.

Pam