Need Advice Planer - Drum Sander

[Mike Goetzke]

I currently have a 13" benchtop planer and a Performax 16/32 drum sander. I'm working on cabinets for our kitchen and justified ordering a new 15" planer from Grizzly because all of my door panels will pass through the 15" as one glue-up and only about half on the 13". But, I was just thinking I could use the drum sander. I have used the sander a few times but shy away from it because it's a little difficult to get the paper nice and tight, get occasional burn marks, and I seem to always get snipe. I don't have in/out feed tables on the sander because the way I store it doesn't allow for fixed extensions (maybe I could apply the extensions when using and remove for storage?).

Appreciate comments on which tool(s) experienced users use for finishing panels.


Thanks,

Mike

[Gary Redden]

I have a 25" dual drum sander and that is what use to run cabinet doors through. I do understand what you mean about getting the paper tight but it is a small price to pay as it works great once you do. I am not sure how you are getting burn marks unless the paper is filling up with waste or you are tring to take off too much with the sander at a time. You have to remember, it is a sander and not a planer so you have to go slow but it will do the job and well.

Gary

[Maik Tobin]

I have the same drum sander. It took me a while to get the hang of it, but it has become invaluable in my shop. Big issue is to only take off small bites with the sander. Too much and the panel will slow down causing snipe. Sometimes as little as 1/8th of a turn of the wheel. Also, I have found that 120 and 150 grit paper works best for me. When you put the paper on the drum, make sure the drum is wiped clean and after you attach each end, tighten the paper to the drum and tuck the end further into the tab. I strongly recommend getting the extensions as they will help support your panel preventing snipe.
I would not recommend using the sander in lieu of a planer. It will take forever and you will spend a small fortune in sandpaper.

[david brum]

I have a 16/32 sander also, and have experienced all of those problems. They are finicky for sure, but most of those problems come from taking a cut which is too deep. The trick is to set the drum properly for the initial cut. I believe the manual says to adjust the drum so the wood can barely pass underneath without hitting, then lower the drum 1/4 turn. After that, only lower the drum by 1/4 turn increments. That should eliminate burning or stalling the motor.

My sander doesn't have tables either and I don't especially experience snipe. You might try loosening the feed roller springs to see if that helps. Also lift very slightly on the wood as it exits.

The belts will loosen after a few minutes when they are new. If they are getting loose after that, it may be related to taking an overly big cut and creating a bunch of heat.

Keep in mind that you still won't get a surface which is ready to finish if you're feeding the whole door into the sander. You still need to go back with an ROS to get the cross grain scratches out of the rails and perhaps clean up tiny waves or snipe marks. Not a big deal.

BTW, I saw an article on making little hinged fold- down torsion box tables for a Performax. They are on my long to-do list.

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for the help. Just to be clear - I will plane the boards, edge glue them to make a panel, and then either use a drum sander or planer to smooth flat. To be clear are you saying I should plane the edge glued panel and then sand it?

Thanks