hand held hollowing

[Bob Rotche]

I realize this topic is discussed frequently, but my issue is this- I currently have a Jet 12-36 with which I have generally been happy but clearly is a "starter" lathe. I hope to upgrade to a full size Jet or Powermatic (maybe Nova DVR?) in the next year or 2. When I do, I fully intend on getting a monster hollowing system given the rave reviews on this board. In the meantime, I have been doing some enclosed bowls (no true hf's yet) with the Sorby swan neck hollowing tool. It works OK at best (actually have gotten better results since I started sharpening cutter on grinding wheel rather than with diamond file as suggested) but is really not an enjoyable tool to use. Was thinking about trying one of the other hand held systems until I do the full upgrade. I really do appreciate the look and creative possibilities of hollow and enclosed forms and am too impatient to wait for my upgrade. Have already been in contact with Randy at Monster who tells me that only parts of a system that would work on my current lathe would be usable after upgrade. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Tim Thiebaut]

Hi Bob, I have one of these tools myself and to be honest while reading your post I couldnt help but smile, I posted almost the exact same thing when I got my swan neck tool, there was so much vibration and screeching noise while useing the tool I went so far as to take the handle off the tool, mix up some new 2 part epoxy and rebuild the tool hoping that would help....it didnt. And like yours mine works so-so at best, if I take "very" light cuts I can maybe get away without the tool catching and gougeing the wood like crazy. I have gotten a little better with it the few times I have braved useing it for very small items but the results are far from stellar. In the post I made...I will try to go back and find it and post the link if I can, but almost without fail most of the replys said that all of the hand held tools would pretty much act the same way. I am going to start saving for a real hollowing system even if it takes me 3-4 months to save up I would rather wait and get the right tool for it myself. I will try and find that old post and link it for you, but I am sure all of the folks here will speak up when they see this. Tim


EDIT - Here is the thread I had on this...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?156351-Sorby-Hollowing-Tool

[Thom Sturgill]

Bob, as I understand, you have option of getting either the mini or the full sized arm from Randy. If you get the full size arm only the base would need to be changed, and only if you go bigger than the Jet 1642.

Which Sorby do you have? I have both the large one with the flat side and the medium 3/8" diameter swan neck. The only way I get satisfactory use out of the smaller one is that I replaced the cutter with a carbide wheel. I had to drill a new hole as the Sorby screw was too large for the cutter, and then ground the end back some, but it is now a go-to tool. On the large tool I use the 1" round wheel only for clean up scraping.

[Jim Burr]

Timely post Bob! I have a 1014 and am upgrading to a 1642 during the fall sales later this year. Knowing this...Randy built mine with just that upgrade in mind. I couldn't be happier!!!

[Edward Bartimmo]

Bob,

For small hollowings the Ellsworth 3/8" tool set (Packard sells them for $50) seems to be very popular with everyone. The next step up is something in the neighborhood of 5/8" tools (Trent Bosch, John Jordan, or the likes). These larger tools are still effective on smaller 8"-15" piecesc and can be fitted into several of the hollowing systems as the boring bars.

The big plus of the Monster is the variety of cutters that come standard with the system. If you don't already have the small hollowing tools then get them, and think about the intermediate size 1/2" or 5/8". Even when you upscale your lathe and buy a Monster, you will sometimes prefer to hollow by hand tools. Nothing quite teaches you a sense of hollowing (wood characteristics, tool presentation, cutting angles, and torque) as when using a hand tool.

Sorby Swan Neck...yep same problem with a lot of noise and tension while turning. It is finiky to say the least.

[Michael James]

Bob,
Dressing the cutter on the wheel is the only way I can find to get those sorts of tools to cut without frustration. I have the mini hollower but I still whip out my Jeff N hand held hollower on every piece for at least part of the gig. When using a swan neck on the shoulder the torque is annoying. Build a side bar, or put some tape and clamp on some vice grips until you can find a better fix. As mentioned above, the round carbide cutters are sweet for finishing cuts and cleaning up the innards. Best of luck.

[Jeff Myroup]

I have some Kelton hollowers that I use. I used to refer to it as "tickling the dragon" It was not fun once I got about 6 inches in. I bought an outrigger and use it on them. it completely takes the torque out of the equation. I now use them for the first third of the hollow form and then switch to my captured system

[David E Keller]

I've had good luck with my Sorby midi-hollower for small forms and shoulder work on a few larger things, but there's no comparison to the monster. I know Randy sells handles and boring bars which I believe cross over into the captured/articulated systems, but I've not used mine for hand hollowing. I use my monster handle with a large bowl gouge, and I really like it for that purpose.

I do think there's a benefit to learning to hollow by hand, and I would recommend starting on relatively small forms(under 6"). If you're crafty, you can make your own boring bars. I think Vaughn McMillan has posted a tutorial for his technique for making hollowing tools on the FWW site and on americanwoodturner.

[Bernie Weishapl]

When I do hand hollowing I use David Ellsworth tools and a set made for me by Vaughn McMillan.