Ebony Finial finishing

[Gordon Beehler]

I've done some research on ebony finishing - but still confused.

I have a dark ebony finial - and about to try.

1. Sand - slow - thru micro mash 1200
2. Wipe down with acetone - wait 24 hrs
3. Repeat acetone wipe down - wait 24 hr
4. Apply Miniwax Antique Oil Finish - wait 24 hrs
5. Buff - slow
6. Apply Miniwax Wipe On Poly

My concern is applying the Antique Oil Finish - seems to be undoing the acetone wipe down steps to reduce the natural oil in ebony.

Comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Deane Allinson]

I made a rather large smooth surface sculpture in Gaboon ebony many years ago. 1000 grit and "Hope's" 100% tung oil. It still on a table and looks the same as it did 20+ years ago.
Deane

[Jeff Nicol]

Antique oil will dry hard as it is basically a "Varnish" like all the oils most of us use as finishes they will polymerize as they dry. Pure tung oil will dry much slower and so will BLO compared to antique oil. If you use some oil as a lube for final sanding the slurry will fill any of the grain and will dry and you should be able to buff it out after that with some carnuba wax for a very nice finish.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Jeff Myroup]

I've done some research on ebony finishing - but still confused.

I have a dark ebony finial - and about to try.

1. Sand - slow - thru micro mash 1200
2. Wipe down with acetone - wait 24 hrs
3. Repeat acetone wipe down - wait 24 hr
4. Apply Miniwax Antique Oil Finish - wait 24 hrs
5. Buff - slow
6. Apply Miniwax Wipe On Poly

My concern is applying the Antique Oil Finish - seems to be undoing the acetone wipe down steps to reduce the natural oil in ebony.

Comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

A lot of the high end turners just sand and wax them. Poly, lacquer and the build up finishes make ebony look plastic

[Scott Hackler]

Haven't turned ebony, but I have turned quite a bit of African Blackwood. One thing that I will do for a finish is... sand to 1000 or a bit higher and apply black shoe polish (the kind in the little can, like wax) while the lathe is still running and buff that out with a dry paper towel. Really brings out the black and puts a nice sheen with an added benefit of a wax like finish.

[John Keeton]

Gordon, I have done a few ebony finials/pedestals, though I prefer African Blackwood. For most of them I sanded to 2,000 on the lathe, and used Renaissance wax, though I am sure the black shoe polish would work great. I have also sprayed a very light coat of Deft lacquer. I would avoid the oil finishes as they will fill the detail cuts and keep the finial from having that delicate look, as well as get a plastic look as noted. As far as buffing, if you choose to do that, do it carefully!! Holding on to a delicate finial against a buffing wheel will give you a pucker factor!

[Michael James]

Welcome Gordon, from NM.

[David E Keller]

Welcome, Gordon! The acetone wipe down is to remove surface oils, so I wouldn't wait 24 hours or repeat the process. If you're taking the ebony to the high end MM level of sanding, I think you should be fine with a simple wax finish. As mentioned previously, the high gloss finishes tend to make the wood look like plastic rather than the expensive wood you've used. I hope you'll post some photos of the finished piece.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Welcome Gordon. I don't wipe my finials with acetone. When finished turning and sanding I use satin lacquer that is burnished in while still on the lathe. Gives it some shine and doesn't make it look like plastic.

[Richard Madden]

The few I have done in Ebony were sanded to 2-4,000 grit and either black shoe polish or ren wax. That's it.

[bob svoboda]

I sand to 600 and lightly coat with rattle-can gloss Deft lacquer.

[Ryan Baker]

Yes, shoe polish works great for those. I use clear (natural) shoe polish, but it is becoming hard to find. Black will work too, as will ren wax or any other good wax that is pretty thin so that you don't have to press hard. Gel poly applied on the lathe is another good option.