Features in a jigsaw

[rick carpenter]

Time to buy a jigsaw. I don't need to spend a lot of money on one since it will be for rough construction-site work mostly, but only for what a jigsaw is for. I guess the most amps for the price? What else, the base plate etc?

Thanks

[Bill Huber]

I guess the first thing to say is "You get what you pay for"

I am one that likes to buy good tools and keep them for a long time. I had a Craftsman I bought in 1970 that I replaced about 2 years ago because I wanted more blade control. The brushes were replace a few times and now my son has it and is using it.

After looking around and reading a bunch I got the Bosch 1590VSL and really like it.

[Doug Colombo]

+1 on the Bosch - I also have one and love it. Works much better than the old B&D that I had for years.

[Chris Jackson]

I just picked up a used Festool PS-300EQ...FANTASTIC! Best dust collection hands down, best sight line for cuts, best blade control...can't say more good things.

[Lorne Steed]

I have the Bosch 1591 EVSL which is the barrel model and I have to say I love it. It is very rugged and will stand up to daily use no problem.

[glenn bradley]

Another 1591 fan here but, these high quality tools have little to do with what Rick is asking about. He clearly states he is using it for rough job-site tasks. Endurance will outweigh precision in this arena. Any of you construction folks have a jigsaw that just won't die? I think that will be more on target for the OP.

[Julian Tracy]

Skip the Festool - the Bosch is a better unit. We're talking 1590/91 series here. Don't bother with the older 1587 saws, even if they seem a deal at $99 or whatever. The new ones are made in China and lower amp ratings than the previously badged 1587 saws, and the 1590 saws have much better features.

The bosch has the same type of lower blade guides as the Festool, that help to keep the cut at 90 degrees in a curve, but the Bosch's guides are auto-adjusting. The Festool guides have to be individually adjusted if you change blade thickness, which is a pretty common occurrence with jigsaw use. I had two Trions and sold them after using the Bosch.

As for dust collection, once you put the dust shroud on the Festool, you loose all sight line ability, so the advantage is negated.

If you can wait, and you really use the heck out of a jigsaw, the new Carvex Festool saws look like they've really re-engineered the whole range of what you can do with a jigsaw and might just be worth the ridiculous $300-350 they'll probably run new.

JT

[Van Huskey]

You are going to get Bosch 1590/1 and Festool replies until you post a top dollar amount you are willing to pay...

[Doug Colombo]

My brother in law and I did home improvements for a number of years and used the Bosch saw with no issues - it is not only a great saw, but a work horse !

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Another 1591 fan here but, these high quality tools have little to do with what Rick is asking about. He clearly states he is using it for rough job-site tasks. Endurance will outweigh precision in this arena. Any of you construction folks have a jigsaw that just won't die? I think that will be more on target for the OP.

Glenn, I think the 1591 qualifies as an endurance jigsaw also.. like most upper end Bosch tools.. I've always managed to abuse mine.... e.g. I dropped it off the roof while cutting holes for stove pipes and it didn't phase it at all. When making tough cuts that break blades, I really like the ability to pull the lever, eject the hot blade, stick another one in the saw and continue on. Switching modes to fast cut with more forward action can really get you through some complicated plywood cuts.. All that and it's comfortable, fast and accurate enough I've been known to use it to cut odd studs rather than run for my big skilsaw. So +1 for a 1590... someday I've considered buying a 1590 also.. sometimes that barrel grip would be nice.

[phil harold]

I have a bosch top handle and a hitachi barrel grip
both great

the only advantage is the hitachi will take regular blades and baynet
so when out in the boonies the hardware store might not have baynet blades (been there)

I like the barrel grip better next bosch will be a barrel grip, if it ever breaks from falling of the roof!

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, I think the 1591 qualifies as an endurance jigsaw also.. like most upper end Bosch tools.. I've always managed to abuse mine.... e.g. I dropped it off the roof while cutting holes for stove pipes and it didn't phase it at all. When making tough cuts that break blades, I really like the ability to pull the lever, eject the hot blade, stick another one in the saw and continue on. Switching modes to fast cut with more forward action can really get you through some complicated plywood cuts.. All that and it's comfortable, fast and accurate enough I've been known to use it to cut odd studs rather than run for my big skilsaw. So +1 for a 1590... someday I've considered buying a 1590 also.. sometimes that barrel grip would be nice.

This is all good to hear. The 1590 vs. 1591 is largely about what feels good in your hands but, I have loved the 1591 since the first cut. I agree it is a solid workhorse but, got the impression Rick was after something more in the > $100 price range. I wasn't trying to steer him away from anything:). If he's in the price bracket, I would not hesitate to grab one of the versions of this wonderful saw.

You are dead-on about blade changes and blade control for that matter. I sprang for the little vac tube and clear air-dam. This is handy when doing precision work but loses its usefulness if you are in full orbital, full speed ahead mode. I'm glad to have it and it was inexpensive. I've used saws costing less and costing way more. As the saying goes . . . you'll have to pry my 1590 from my cold, dead hands :D

[David Prince]

For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.

[Karl Brogger]

For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.

I did laminate countertops for a year and half when I first got into this stuff. We used Bosch jigsaws and when you couldn't make the corner at the backsplash we would just cut it from the underside. Down cut blades help with chipping too, until you cut from the underside obviously.


Another vote for Bosch units.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I own four of the made in USA Bosch 1587's. Love them, and if they ever quit, will most likely go with the 1591. I use mine both in the shop and on the job site. I own a home repair business. You most likely can pick up used 1587's in pawn shops for about $60.

[shane lyall]

For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.

Rotozip. I have 1 I hardly ever use but it's a lifesaver when I need it. I can't help much on the op question since I have a couple B&D jigsaws. I couldn't tell you the last time I used one. They are both hanging on the wall in my shop covered in sawdust.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Originally Posted by David Prince http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1648046#post1648046)
For anyone that ever cuts sink holes in countertops, what models have a small footprint? I have a Milwaukee and like it for general jigsaw type work, but would like to find something that can get me closer to the back of a backsplash.


Ask - and ye shall....
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=MS400

Smallest footprint of any jig-type saws that I'm aware of - that actually have some measure of control.
Main drawback is a lack of power. However, since it's mostly used for a very narrow purpose cut - such as the single cut @ the back, I haven't found that to be a problem.
Mine came as part of the Dremel 4000 kit that I bought. Along with the little plane attachement, the jig saw attachement was something I thought I'd never use. I was wrong on both counts.

B&D, Skill, Ridgid and Milwaukee all have small - think mini Sawzall - type saws that can get into that tight spot at the rear of a sink cutout near the backsplash.
As their names imply though (the Milwaukee is called something like Hackzall), they are for fairly rough work.


Rotozip. I have 1 I hardly ever use but it's a lifesaver when I need it
Ditto that..sometimes even my Dremel's small footprint is too much &/or going up from underneath - such as in the case of a countertop already mounted - isn't an option.
The Rotzip w/the optional cutter wheel attachment can get almost flush to the backsplash.

Last, but certainly not least, is one of the multifunction tools. Both my HF and my Dremel can make cuts that are, for all practical purposes, flush.


Re: the OP - I picked up a GMC jigsaw on closeout @ Lowes for about $20.00 a few years ago. If/when it ever wears out, I'll probably replace it with one of the Bosch offerings.
Maybe...
It's hard to say. Ever since I picked up one of the HF multifuntion tools, that's become my "go-to" for a whole lot of rough work that I used to use a jig saw, recip saw and circ saw for.
In all honesty, I'd have to say if you want a jig saw for "rough work", take a good hard long look at the multifunction tools.

[Joe Angrisani]

It looks like the Bosch 1590 and 1591 saws are being retired. Has anyone used the new JS470-series saws that are replacing them?

[Jay Jeffery]

You would be surprised how well cheap jigsaws work when you put good blades in them. Most people see a night and day difference when they switch from Black and Decker jigsaws with no-name flat toothed blades to Bosch jigsaws with high-quality Bosch blades that have edges actually ground on the teeth. They tend to attribute the difference to the power tool.

If you have a cheap jigsaw that just isn't cutting it (no pun intended) or don't want to spend $150 on a tool that you won't be requiring a lot out of, try a cheap saw with good blades. The orange BORG sells some Bosch assortment packs at pretty reasonable prices. If your saw will take the U-shank blades (non T-shank Bosch style), they are even less expensive.

[David Prince]

Rotozip. I have 1 I hardly ever use but it's a lifesaver when I need it. I can't help much on the op question since I have a couple B&D jigsaws. I couldn't tell you the last time I used one. They are both hanging on the wall in my shop covered in sawdust.

I have a rotozip for drywall. Possibly an x-bit for general purpose.

[David Prince]

Ask - and ye shall....
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=MS400

Smallest footprint of any jig-type saws that I'm aware of - that actually have some measure of control.
Main drawback is a lack of power. However, since it's mostly used for a very narrow purpose cut - such as the single cut @ the back, I haven't found that to be a problem.
Mine came as part of the Dremel 4000 kit that I bought. Along with the little plane attachement, the jig saw attachement was something I thought I'd never use. I was wrong on both counts.

B&D, Skill, Ridgid and Milwaukee all have small - think mini Sawzall - type saws that can get into that tight spot at the rear of a sink cutout near the backsplash.
As their names imply though (the Milwaukee is called something like Hackzall), they are for fairly rough work.


Ditto that..sometimes even my Dremel's small footprint is too much &/or going up from underneath - such as in the case of a countertop already mounted - isn't an option.
The Rotzip w/the optional cutter wheel attachment can get almost flush to the backsplash.

Last, but certainly not least, is one of the multifunction tools. Both my HF and my Dremel can make cuts that are, for all practical purposes, flush.


Re: the OP - I picked up a GMC jigsaw on closeout @ Lowes for about $20.00 a few years ago. If/when it ever wears out, I'll probably replace it with one of the Bosch offerings.
Maybe...
It's hard to say. Ever since I picked up one of the HF multifuntion tools, that's become my "go-to" for a whole lot of rough work that I used to use a jig saw, recip saw and circ saw for.
In all honesty, I'd have to say if you want a jig saw for "rough work", take a good hard long look at the multifunction tools.

I have a brand new Fein that I picked up a couple of months ago. I guess I never thought of using it to cut a long section like countertop. I always thought of it for making small cuts here and there that were in tight spots. This is a good idea if it works.

[Gregory King]

Looks like Bosch wins, hands down. I 've got the PC 9543, like it well, but the quick change feature requires a lot of facial expressions. The spring has a ton of tension in it. At work we have a couple of the older Makita line. A very well balanced jig saw. Can't go wrong there either.

[Howard Rosenberg]

The Bosch is most people's first choice for good reason - power, lack of vibration, user-friendly features.
But if you don't want to spend the money for the Bosch, I'd very strongly recommend the Makita unit that Home Depot sells.
Good power, variable speed, Bosch-style blades, blade gripper for vertical cuts.
Give it a good look the next time you're at HD.
HTH
Howard

[rick carpenter]

Thanks for the responses, I shouldda been clearer. A few mentioned features, and others mentioned considerations such as ruggedness and small footprint. Can y'all list and discuss some must-have features you'd want in a construction jigsaw please? The reason I don't need to spend a lot of money on this one is 1. it won't be for fine use, 2. it likely will be used in very ypparc conditions from time to time, and 3. it may be used by less-than-optimally-skilled workers. I do disaster recovery/rebuild work and you never know in what conditions you'll be in or what skill level your team members might have. Thanks again.

[Chuck Radgowski]

I got a 7.0 amp Bosch js470e at a tool show from the Bosch rep's. With the saw running they jammed a scrolling bit straight down through a 3/4 piece of pine then by using the cord to guide the saw with no hands on the controls they cut a circle in the pine. The saw was so vibration free it did not even jump around. It is very smooth and I am happy with it.

[sunny nic]

I have a rotozip for drywall. Possibly an x-bit for general purpose.

rotozip? what kinf of do u have??

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have a brand new Fein that I picked up a couple of months ago. I guess I never thought of using it to cut a long section like countertop. I always thought of it for making small cuts here and there that were in tight spots. This is a good idea if it works.
David,
It's ( the multifunction tool) like any other saw. Freehand it and it'll wander all over on you. Slap a good straight guide for it to ride along & it'll deliver a nice straight line cut.
It won't turn corners though on sink cutouts - but - that's what hole saws are for ;).


I have a rotozip for drywall. Possibly an x-bit for general purpose
Yes/no - RotoZip has a wheel attachment, the Zipmate, that converts a standard RotoZip to a circular saw.
I bought one for mine before the Fein MF knockoffs came out.
IMHO - it's way too expensive for what you get - considering the explosion of low cost MF tools.
I see they also offer a "jig saw" handle attachment now.


3. it may be used by less-than-optimally-skilled workers

In light of the Ryobi lawsuit - that might be all the more reason to consider a multi function tool.
It's possible to cut/hurt yourself w/one,,,,,but,,,it takes a real dedicated effort to do it.
You can jam the moving blade into your palm and come away with little more than a scratch.

[Mike Wilkins]

Don't look any further than the Bosch. I had one of the el-cheapo jig saws that used the blades with the hole in the top. Got tired of breaking blades, even on soft woods. That is the weak point on the blade. The Bosch machines may be a little costlier than the other guys, but they will last a really long time so the payback is favorable.

[Gregory King]

One last thing relating to the blades. For those of you who have a chance to try the Makita #10 plain or T-top blades, you won't be disappointed. They cut clean and fast in all types of wood. Super in the cabinet grade plywoods.

[David Larsen]

You would be surprised how well cheap jigsaws work when you put good blades in them. Most people see a night and day difference when they switch from Black and Decker jigsaws with no-name flat toothed blades to Bosch jigsaws with high-quality Bosch blades that have edges actually ground on the teeth. They tend to attribute the difference to the power tool.

If you have a cheap jigsaw that just isn't cutting it (no pun intended) or don't want to spend $150 on a tool that you won't be requiring a lot out of, try a cheap saw with good blades. The orange BORG sells some Bosch assortment packs at pretty reasonable prices. If your saw will take the U-shank blades (non T-shank Bosch style), they are even less expensive.

Many of the cheaper jigsaws will not give you a variable speed and adjustable orbit.

I have a cheap B & D and an expensive Milwaukee. To me it is night and day no matter what blades I put in it. The Milwaukee is superior. I haven't used a Bosch.

[Tom Ewell]

If you're looking for a solid tool that'll hold up for various jobs and not break the bank, then go with something like the Bosch.

Tool-less quick blade change feature is almost required. Newbees will not misplace the wrench and will more than likely change to a correct blade 'cause it's easy.

Variable speed and oscillation allows for diverse and safer uses. Smoother operation eases discomfort/fatigue and allows for more precision and control regardless of perceived need for these attributes.

Well built "better quality" tools cool more efficiently, normally have beefier bearings, heavier hardware and stronger housings so longevity is increased through use and abuse.

[David Prince]

rotozip? what kinf of do u have??


RotoZip DR01-1100 Drywall

[Mike Schuch]

I picked up a used Bosch 1591 for a great price when the previous owner (a boat builder) was given a Festool for Christmas. The saw is great and does a beautiful job. It took a little while to figure out the blade change without a manual but it is easy enough now that I know how. I have big hands and like the grip of the barrel grip.

I am having a REALLY HARD TIME trying to get used to not having a trigger!!!!! I flick the switch with my thumb and it runs until I flick it off. Being used to a trigger I am having a really tough time remembering to flick it off. I also miss being able to control the blade speed with my finger. I used to slow the blade down when sneaking up on the end of a cut to hit the stop point right on.

I also miss being able to quickly rotate the blade for tight against the wall cuts like my ancient Craftsman used to be able to do.

For construction I think I might recommended the handle grip Bosch over the barrel grip so you have a traditional trigger.

For construction I would also suggest looking at the orbital feature that is available on most saws and does seem to speed up cuts.

My 1591 does do plunge cuts very nicely.

My 1591 also does a pretty good job of blowing away the saw dust in front of the blade so you can see your marking lines.

I might compare how close a jig saw will saw to a wall (both head on and parallel to the wall) for a construction saw.

I borrowed my buddies Dewalt several times before finding my Bosch. I don't have anything bad to say about the Dewalts and wouldn't mind owning one but I do like my Bosch better.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

I have the Bosch 1587 and love it. No need to look for anything else.