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Deane Allinson
02-26-2011, 12:17 PM
I picked up an old gouge a week ago. It's an old W. Butcher with a very low sweep, #2? about 1/16" over the 1 1/4" width of the blade. The blade is 8 1/2" under ferrule. I picked it up for $17 without a handle. I turned a new handle and now it is 15" in overall length. It can make micro thin shavings with no effort. I still need to work on the edge profile. Any tricks to shaping an in-channel?
Deane

Chris Vandiver
02-26-2011, 12:42 PM
Deane- You scored. Nice job on the handle! Beautiful chisel.
George Wilson probably knows something about shaping the incannel bevel. Narrow wheel on a grinder? Coarse slipstone? Sandpaper on a dowel?

Tony Shea
02-26-2011, 12:56 PM
I would also like a couple tips on an incannel bevel gouge. I've picked up a couple nice Buck Bros. but struggle at getting the bevel real nice.

Very nice score Deane, I really like the low sweep to that chisel/gouge. Was a fair price paid as well. Superb job on the handle, something I really need to think about investing in... a lathe. I have too many unhandled chisel and gouges that really need a handle.

Harlan Barnhart
02-26-2011, 2:14 PM
Deane, I used one of those cheap, made in China, round stones on a stem. I think they are made to use in an electric drill but I put it in a drill press. It destroyed the stone but they only cost a dollar or so. It worked really well. I didn't have any overheating issues and I felt accurate enough to grind right up to the edge but not past it, so there wasn't much work left for the slip stones.

Jim Koepke
02-26-2011, 2:30 PM
Looks like a nice score Deane.

I think I may have its brother, will look later today.

I have done many things to try and sharpen in channel bevels, slip stones, custom made pieces of hardwood with sand paper and then use the shaped hardwood to hold a soft piece of leather with some stropping compound.

One of the methods that seems to always work for me is to convert it one sharpening at a time to an out channel bevel.

It seems an in channel bevel works OK for some paring and for working on convex curves. For other cuts, it seem (to me at least) the out channel bevel is easier to control.

Of coarse, a fully equipped shop will need one of each in every size. :D

jtk

george wilson
02-26-2011, 2:42 PM
For many many years I just ground gouges like that on a bench grinder,but it does take skill to do it nicely. These days I'd just grind it with my Wilton Square Wheel belt grinder,using one of the smaller wheels to get inside the curve. Using a rotating stone in your drill press sounds like a good method. That is a very nice gouge. I have some similar ones. Butcher is a good brand. Yours is a pattern maker's gouge with that in cannel grind. It does have limited uses,though,with the inside grind.

David Weaver
02-26-2011, 2:44 PM
They're never going to be as easy to sharpen as outcannel or straight chisels.

Easiest to blunt the edge into a small flat and then put a cone stone on a drill press or lathe chuck, grind most of the flat off and then finish with slipstones, sandpaper on a dowel, abrasively charged dowels, etc.

After that, try not to let them get too dull before you slipstone them.

Apparently, old timers didn't favor sharpening them that way too much, because I never find them with a nice straight across edge, or even a nicely done projected edge.

george wilson
02-26-2011, 6:42 PM
I guess its not the nicest thing to suggest,but I know you would get MUCH more use out of it if you ground the end square,and ground the bevel on the outside of the gouge.

Jonathan McCullough
02-26-2011, 8:08 PM
I picked up some incannel gouges recently and really like them, especially the cranked-neck variety and the wide flat ones like Dean's. They look like they'll be handy for the horns of saw handles. I picked up a cone-shaped grinding thingee at the local Borg to sharpen them. It's made by Wolfcraft presumably for use on a drill, but haven't had a chance to sharpen the mine yet. I got the idea from a wkfinetools article by James D. Thompson. (http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/howTo/incannelGouge/incanGauge1.asp)

Once you have a good initial bevel, something that looks promising to keep incannel and regular gouges sharp is the DMT wave. (http://www.dmtsharp.com/press/wave.htm) Anyone had a chance to give these a try yet? It looks like they flex a bit to fit the gouge you're sharpening.

I've also been thinking of making a wooden cone of some sort and covering it with sand paper. Too many projects!

Zach Dillinger
02-26-2011, 8:19 PM
I guess its not the nicest thing to suggest,but I know you would get MUCH more use out of it if you ground the end square,and ground the bevel on the outside of the gouge.

If you go this route, let me know. I will gladly trade you an equivalent out-cannel gouge. I'm always in the market for good in-cannels.

Jim Koepke
02-26-2011, 9:27 PM
If you go this route, let me know. I will gladly trade you an equivalent out-cannel gouge. I'm always in the market for good in-cannels.

Do you have specific uses for the in-cannel gouge as opposed to out-cannel?

I thought I had a Butcher gouge in the same sweep and size, but my big one is a Buck Brothers. The second one in the picture is a Ward. Its shop made handle may be what reminded, me of what Deane did with his.

184364

jtk

Deane Allinson
02-26-2011, 9:27 PM
I'll keep it an "innie" I have plenty of "outies" It's nice to pare with.
Deane

Pam Niedermayer
02-27-2011, 1:37 AM
If one is carving, it's often recommended to have both out and in cannel bevels on most every chisel to positively affect steering with either hand. The inner bevel isn't usually as gradual a slope as the outer. This is from several carvers on dvd's, among them Norah Hall.

But if it's to be used in a pattern or furniture making situation, I have no advice to pass on.

Pam

Zach Dillinger
02-27-2011, 11:37 AM
Do you have specific uses for the in-cannel gouge as opposed to out-cannel?

I thought I had a Butcher gouge in the same sweep and size, but my big one is a Buck Brothers. The second one in the picture is a Ward. Its shop made handle may be what reminded, me of what Deane did with his.

jtk

Jim,

I use the in-cannel gouges to cut scribed joints, specifically when coping window sash. It is difficult to cut a straight edge on a concave surface when using an out-cannel gouge. It can be done, but an in-cannel makes it easier.

Jim Koepke
02-27-2011, 1:06 PM
Jim,

I use the in-cannel gouges to cut scribed joints, specifically when coping window sash. It is difficult to cut a straight edge on a concave surface when using an out-cannel gouge. It can be done, but an in-cannel makes it easier.

Of course, this one slipped my mind. Maybe if it was done more often…

jtk

Zach Dillinger
02-27-2011, 1:19 PM
Of course, this one slipped my mind. Maybe if it was done more often…

jtk

Yeah, not many people are making window sash by hand. I enjoy doing it though.

Best,

Zach

Jim Koepke
02-27-2011, 1:30 PM
Yeah, not many people are making window sash by hand. I enjoy doing it though.

Best,

Zach

Also coping molding the in-cannel is also likely helpful there.

jtk

Jonathan McCullough
02-27-2011, 1:36 PM
Also paring inside curves on crown molding after getting close with a coping saw. Also Recreating molding on the sides of the apron underneath a window sill so it looks like the molding pattern is repeated on the sides as well as on the face of the apron.