Questoins about late 70's Unisaw

[Matt Roth]

I'm pretty happy with my Delta contractor saw w/52" Unifence, but I've always said if I could upgrade and sell the cont saw for a similar price as the replacement, I'd probably do it. I found a late 70's Unisaw for sale locally for what appears a pretty good price. I haven't seen pics or the saw yet; I wanted to learn a bit more about that vintage before seeing it in person. Here's how the seller has described it so far:

"The Beisemeyer fence and extensions are removed and it needs wired. The saw itself is very clean late 70's model square motor cover, steel plinth and had been 3 phase. I picked it up a couple years ago and rat holed it, came across a single phase motor and installed it last year and never got back to it. I've decided to make more room in the shop. $450 cash."

What should I be be checking closely on this saw before purchase?

[Jamie Buxton]

"The fence is removed?" Does that mean there is no fence on the saw? Add a bunch to your budget to buy a fence.

And "it needs wired"? Does that mean you can't easily turn it on to check his single-phase modification? Uh.. pass. If he wants to sell it, he'd better wire it up.

[Matt Roth]

The fence is removed, but included as I understand. I'd probably keep my Unifence and put the Besi on my old saw, so being removed saves me the trouble of taking it off. I figured the fence alone is worth about half the price; if it needs a motor, I could probably deal with it that for the price.

[Steve Ryan]

Do a full mechanical check inside. Also check worms and worm gears. Sounds like the phase conversion only got as far as the motor, nothing done to the mag starter. I am thinking those saws had a special built motor because of the way it was mounted on the machine.

[Matt Roth]

By full mechanical check, I'd make sure the worm gears work smooth, the arbor is true, no play in bearings, what else am I missing? Also, tell me more about this mag starter.

[Cary Falk]

Since the fence is off, you might as well pull the top and inspect all of the internals. Common breaks occur where the trunnions connect to the cabinet and the abor bracket. I would put the elevation and tilt mechanisms through the full range while inspecting from the top. When I bought mine it had a few teeth broken off the trunnion that I didn't catch even with the top off. I would want to see the motor run. Make sure the 1phase has the unisaw mounting bracket Check for any noise if it isn't installed yet. Make sure the motor cover and both lock knob are accounted for. Check the arbor for play and any weird noises. Bearings are cheap enough if they need to be replaced and you can do it yourself. There are plenty of places on the web that show you how to do it. Most of the internal parts didn't change much over the 50+ years of the right tilt version.

[Ryan Hellmer]

In addition to the mechanical check, look for any cracks/repairs in the castings. It's not uncommon for saws of this vintage to have some damage. I would check out the owwm.org site for some more hints/tips on saws like this. I personally would not be worried about the electricals, but that's just me. With the magnetic switch, if it was originally three phase, the switch may or may not work for single phase. Take the cover off and there should be a sticker that will verify. Either way, I don't think it's a deal breaker, grizzly sells them pretty cheap and they can be had on auction sites even cheaper.

This certainly is not a "turn-key" opportunity, so don't go in expecting that. If there are any repairs/missing parts, estimate the repairs, plus your time/materials then multiply by 2 or 3 and factor that into your offer.

Ryan

[Steve Schoene]

you basically need to be sure there aren't broken or heavily worn castings so that the blade tilt and elevation work smoothly. Also double check the hp and phase on the motor. Only minor details, things like having doors in the cabinet, or a cast iron plinth vary between the early forties and the last ones made, though there was one arbor variation that changed somewhere along the way.

[Matt Roth]

Thanks all, went to check it out tonight, going back to pick it up in the morning. Good looking saw, motor runs good, needs new switch. Otherwise, all looks good. Turns out the seller is a member on SMC. Thanks, Jim!

[Steven Wayne]

I bought a '73 vintage Unisaw a week ago today in somewhat similar condition. I'm actually rather happy I have had to put together my saw. I now fully understand what's going on inside that base. I know how to get things tuned up and aligned. AND, I got to do the few small modifications to the saw that I wanted to do from the get go. In another week or so, I'll have it running and looking the way I want.

Congrats on the Uni! I'm interested in your progress with it!

[ken gibbs]

Take the blade off of the shaft and give the saw the nickle test. Stand a nickle up on edge and turn the saw on. The coin should stay upright if the bearings are tight and they thould make only a smooth humming sound. If the bearings are bad, you can hear them.

Ken

[Charles Lent]

Heck, that's no test for a Unisaw. If the saw is on a concrete slab and has a good blade on it, you can stand a new dime on it's edge and start the saw without the dime falling over. I love my 1984 Unisaw and Unifence. It has significantly improved the quality of my woodworking. and when you get that one sorted out and set up, you too will experience this.

Charley

[Carl Babel]

Heck, for a "REAL" test, use the saw to rip that dime in half and see if half a dime will stand up!

:D JK. For some reason, the escalation (nickel to dime) reminded me of the "Scary sharp" stories.