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View Full Version : Cheapest wood for prototype steam bending?



Kent A Bathurst
02-25-2011, 7:47 AM
I may want to include some steam-bent parts in an upcoming project.

Never did it before, but I ain't scared - everythiing I've ever done was in that category at one time. However, I would want a couple practice shots, to mistake my way up the learning curve, and to get the jig[s] set up correctly.

Don't care at all what the final results looks like -its a proto that will probably live out its life in the stored jig[s] or in the scrap heap.

Currently thinking the finished items to be from 8/4 air-dried QSWO. Kinda pricey stuff for a prototype.

Suggestions/warnings/laughter?

TIA

Kent

fred marcuson
02-25-2011, 7:59 AM
since all woods can differ , use the wood the final product will be made of ...
it isn't worth being cheap sometimes :)

Philip Duffy
02-25-2011, 8:08 AM
Having bent just a few pieces my only advise/2 cents is to make sure your system has enough water and heat to go the distance of about 1.5 hours. That 8/4 wood, red oak perhaps, is going to take a lot of steam. Other than that I suggest you have a buddy and practice getting the piece bent around the form as quick as a wink and have the "peg man" get them all in place against the stops on 'double time'. We will be waiting to hear how it all goes- -- with baited breath!. Good luck! Phil

Jamie Buxton
02-25-2011, 11:17 AM
Ash is inexpensive, and bends well. Using it, you could at least learn whether steam bending 8/4 wood is remotely possible.

Kent A Bathurst
02-25-2011, 11:31 AM
Ash is inexpensive, and bends well. Using it, you could at least learn whether steam bending 8/4 wood is remotely possible.

Good point. Didn't explain the details, but in effect the 8/4 would be resawn in from the ends, leaving a solid 8/4 section in the middle, and the ~1x ends would be the sections that would be bent. I realize there will be some care and tricks involved in this, especially guarding against the solid section splitting [including drilling a hole where the resaw runs to, and maybe pinning the section right behind the hole]. Fairly wacko idea, I admit - but that's my style - and that's why I was looking for something for prototypes to sacrifice on the alter of "you're kidding, right?"

If that fails, fall back is to bend a pair of ~1x, and then glue + pin them together in the middle. Stretcher[s] for a small hall table.

Louis Oberholtzer
02-25-2011, 2:47 PM
You are not starting with the simplest bend. Have you seen Lee Valley's Wood bending Info? (http://www.leevalley.com/us/html/05F1501ie.pdf) Also some wood bending shown here (http://www.barevillewoodcraft.com/gallery.html).

C Scott McDonald
02-25-2011, 3:06 PM
Never did it before, but I ain't scared

I call dibs on your tools!!

Seriously maybe poplar? Nice and cheap.

johnny means
02-25-2011, 5:32 PM
You might want to bend it as a square blank and then cut any taper into the bent blank. If your cuts go across the grain before bending it could cause splitting.

Kent A Bathurst
02-25-2011, 5:33 PM
You are not starting with the simplest bend. Have you seen Lee Valley's Wood bending Info? (http://www.leevalley.com/us/html/05F1501ie.pdf) Also some wood bending shown here (http://www.barevillewoodcraft.com/gallery.html).


I dunno. The bend is fairly gentle and straight-forward. Maybe the double/quadruple feature makes it a bit more of a hustle. The mortise and tenon at the legs certainly has my attention, though.

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