What Benchtop Finish?

[Jack Hogoboom]

I set up my new Sjoberg bench tonight (sorry, pic police, no px yet). Any thoughts about what finish, if any, I should use for the top? Should I finish the whole bench or just the top?

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jack

P.S. The bench is pretty sweet for $300.

[Jim Dunn]

Jack, just a thought, but what about tung oil? Most you can do to it is scratch it and add more oil to it to refinish it.

Jim

[Jim Becker]

Jack, I just use BLO on my bench(s). It's renewable, helps keep any glue from sticking and very inexpensive. It also cures in a couple of days whereas "real" tung oil takes weeks to cure. Anything that's labeled "Tung Oil Finish" is almost always an oil varnish mix (with no tung oil) and as such is a film finish. I don't recommend that for a bench...the scratches and cuts show up way too much and it's more work to renew.

[Jim Dunn]

Jim, now I have a question. Would real tung oil show scratches and cuts as much or as little a BLO?

I failed to mention to Jack that I meant real tung oil not a tung oil finish. Had a bad experience that oil wannabe.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between tung oil and BLO...except at the checkout counter!

[Jim Dunn]

Check! Thanks as always.

[Scott Parks]

Is there any particular brand of BLO that you use? Or is the generic brand at the Borgs good enough?

[Tim Palmer]

Hey,

Sorry about this, but what is BLO? Thanks

Tim

[Russ Massery]

Boiled Linseed oil

[Tim Palmer]

Thanks Russell makes sense now. Duh

Tim

[Alan Turner]

Each to his own on this question, of course, but I use Waterlox Original, which is a pretty high solids content varnish oil mix. When I first finished the bench, I put two or three coats, top and bottom. Now, whenever I have the waterlox out for another reason, I just go over the bench with a card scraper to remove any this's and that's, and quickly rag on another light coat. It dries pretty quickly, overnight at worst, does not bleed, and things do not stick to it. A bench is a tool and meant to be used.
Alan

[Matt Meiser]

Is there any particular brand of BLO that you use? Or is the generic brand at the Borgs good enough?

For anythng in the shop, I've been just using whatever BLO the store sells with good results.

[Jack Hogoboom]

Thanks everyone.

I'm a big Waterlox fan and like the idea of protecting the wood a little better than would be the case with BLO. However, I don't really want the top to be shiny and I'm a little concerned about Jim's comments regarding showing cuts, etc.

Any specific thoughts on Waterlox vs. BLO?

Jack

[Norman Hitt]

Thanks everyone.

I'm a big Waterlox fan and like the idea of protecting the wood a little better than would be the case with BLO. However, I don't really want the top to be shiny and I'm a little concerned about Jim's comments regarding showing cuts, etc.

Any specific thoughts on Waterlox vs. BLO?

Jack

As Alan said, Each to His Own, and for me personally, I have never liked a hard finish on a bench top, and thus would never use waterlox on one. I, like Jim am a devout BLO fan for bench tops, and the only other thing I use occassionally is paste wax on top of the BLO, (On Real Wood Tops) and usually this was just to kinda Clean it, more than any other reason, but also if I planned to do a lot of heavy glueing on it, to eliminate any sticking problems. For tops of MDF or Tempered hardboard, I only use paste wax.

I have used several different finishes on bench bases, but mostly just a couple of coats of BLO. I just like the soft look and feel of it, and the exceptional ease of maintenance.

Basically, it's just whatever honks your horn.

[Jim Becker]

Is there any particular brand of BLO that you use? Or is the generic brand at the Borgs good enough?
Yup. Other than polymerized versions such as Tried and True, there isn't really much difference from the 'Borg BLO from any other you can pay more for. BLO is BLO.


I'm a big Waterlox fan and like the idea of protecting the wood a little better than would be the case with BLO.
What are you "protecting" it from? ;) That said, Waterlox will work fine and it's somewhat renewable. But it's also an oil-varnish mix which does make it more of a film finish. If you have it and like it...use it!

[Dave Anderson NH]

I've always used the BLO and paste wax on top for my bench. It's renewable and doesn't make the bench top too slippery. Having said that, polymerized tung oil available from Lee Valley is a viable alternative and it does provide more of a build than the BLO. It cures in just a day or two unlike the raw tung oil which does take a long time to cure. Tung is more expensive, but doesn't darken with age like the BLO. I use the tung mostly for light colored woods which I want to keep light colored. Which way you choose to go depends on your preferences. Just remember that a buffed out coat or two of paste wax on top of your finish is a real help in preventing such things as glue, shellac, and other liquids from sticking permanently to the top. A quick rub over the affected area with a scraper or a chisel will just pop off the offending mess.

[Jim Dunn]

Dave,

By paste wax are you describing car type paste wax or a wax specially design for wood?

I use car paste wax on my table saw and haven't noticed a problem with it bleeding onto the wood and spoiling a finish. Or am I misleading myself some where?

Jim

[Matt Meiser]

I use car paste wax on my table saw and haven't noticed a problem with it bleeding onto the wood and spoiling a finish. Or am I misleading myself some where?

I use Johnson's Paste Wax for this. Available at Lowes in the cleaning products section. I've also seen it at Meijer, which is a regional "Super WalMart" type place so you may be able to find it at the grocery store or hardware store.

[Jim Dunn]

Matt,
I guess I'm not quite understanding. Is this a car type wax? I'm pretty sure it is but just want to clear up that question in my cobwebby mind. I'm currently using Meguiars liquid wax.

Jim

[Jim Becker]

Jim, be really careful using "car wax" in your woodworking shop for anything. Many of them contain silicone which can cause all kinds of finishing problems...and it's another one of those "gifts that keep on giving", too. Very hard to erradicate once it invades your shop! I use MiniWax paste wax on my tools as well as some projects, although I also like the Mylands beeswax blend product for furniture.

[Jack Hogoboom]

I ultimately decided to use BLO. Went on nice and easy. I will put a couple of coats of paste wax on it and see how it does.

Should I use more than one application of BLO?

[Norman Hitt]

I ultimately decided to use BLO. Went on nice and easy. I will put a couple of coats of paste wax on it and see how it does.

Should I use more than one application of BLO?

Jack, I usually put on one heavy coat of BLO, then wait a day or so, and apply a second coat, let it set an hour or so then kinda rub it in with a rag pad lightly wetted with BLO. after it cures a few days, I look to see if there seem to be any dry looking spots, and if there are I give it another coat like the second coat, but if not I usually apply a light coat of (Johnsons Paste wax-because it's what I can get easily here at HD, and sometimes in the supermarket in the floor products section, and some times at Wally World) then Buff it dry. I like the Bowling alley wax, but just can't seem to get it here anymore. Briwax is good, but also not available locally, and more expensive.

Normally, one or two coats will do the job, but I have had a few occassions where the wood just kept soaking it up and it took 4 or 5 coats to finally get it totally "saturated", it just depends on the wood.

(FOR JIM DUNN) This is Johnsons Paste wax for Wood, (or wood floors) "NOT CAR WAX". If you've never had the displeasure of having the Silicon Problem show up on a project, you've been lucky, but I assure you that you will definitely not forget it when it does happen.

[Jim Dunn]

Thanks Norm! I'll take the "hint" and count my lucky start:) Going to the borg to buy some today, and get that other stuff out here.

[Ken Salisbury]

I set up my new Sjoberg bench tonight (sorry, pic police, no px yet). Any thoughts about what finish, if any, I should use for the top? Should I finish the whole bench or just the top?



You could always use the same finish that is on my bench :

Spilled Bud Light
Titebond II squeeze out
Overspray paint
CA
Paint Thinner
Acetone
Peanut Butter
Jelly
Mustard
etc
etc

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/smiley2.gif

[Norman Hitt]

You could always use the same finish that is on my bench :

Spilled Bud Light
Titebond II squeeze out
Overspray paint
CA
Paint Thinner
Acetone
Peanut Butter
Jelly
Mustard
etc
etc

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/smiley2.gif


Ken, I think you should get a "High Quality Picture" of that bench top. It sounds like something that should be sold to one of those "High Dollar Art Galleries". Heck, You may be Famous and don't even know it.