The're multiplying

[Rick Prosser]

I picked up a #7 Stanley. Not sure which one it is? Perhaps it has mixed parts. Here are the details I have:

No patent dates cast into the bed (there are some numbers under the tote - U2 0462.
Plane number is cast into bed.
There is a raised ring for the knob.
No raised flat rib around heel or toe.
STANLEY is printed vertically on lateral adj. lever. (no patent dates)
1.25" Depth adjustment nut has diagonal knurling.
Kidney shaped lever cap hole.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/reprosser/Woodworking/Jointerparts.jpg

As you can see, the paint is worn off the knob. Is it better to leave it as-is, sand it off, or repaint? Corrugated sole seems flat and in good shape. I will post the clean up picture later.

Here are the plans I have now:
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/reprosser/Woodworking/PlanesWeb.jpg
They just keep multiplying !

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like a type 19, 1949 - 1961?

Couldn't tell by enlarging the picture if the adjuster nut knurling is straight or diagonal. If it is diagonal, then it is likely a type 18, 1946 - 1948.

It isn't the type that matters as much as the shavings.

jtk

[Roy Lindberry]

It isn't the type that matters as much as the shavings.

jtk

Really, it isn't even the shavings that matter as much as the surface it leaves behind. :D

[Andrew Gibson]

Looks like a type 18 to me. black painted knob and tote give it away for me.

[Adam Cormier]

Great new piece you got there.

[keith micinski]

I have run into the same problem of the multiplying planes. In the span of two weeks I went from not knowing what any type of a hand plane was to thinking I hope we find out what type that is so I know what model mine is when I eventually get it.

[bill schmoott]

Rick, those look like some great finds. I wish you well with your new found illness. I bought a low angle block plane two weeks ago, took it to the garage and tried it out. All of a sudden, I have a chisel plane and 3 more planes in the mail coming to me right now....not sure what happened, but they do multiply.?????????

[Jim Koepke]

In my studies of the multiplying plane phenomenon my travels have been curtailed to ensure there is no possibility of a plane following me home.

Even with these precautions and living on a fairly isolated few acres, a stray #5 still found its way into my shop.

There is no cure.

jtk

[Rick Prosser]

A couple more details to add:

"Bailey" is cast on the toe - in front of the knob (close to the front edge)
"Made in USA" is cast on the toe - between knob and mouth.
"#7" is cast on the heel
adjuster nut knurling is diagonal

From what little I know - it seems that the base of the plane may be a different type than the attached parts. Perhaps it is a collection of parts including type 16, 17, 18, 19?

I agree that the performance is more important than the ID. I am just the curious type, and since these are going to be used, the type determination is just for fun.

Between the turning vortex and the hand plane illness, I think there is no hope for me...;)

[Roy Lindberry]

In my studies of the multiplying plane phenomenon my travels have been curtailed to ensure there is no possibility of a plane following me home.

Even with these precautions and living on a fairly isolated few acres, a stray #5 still found its way into my shop.

There is no cure.

jtk

And it's not just planes, either. Yesterday, I had a brace, a saw, and a sliding bevel gauge follow me home from work.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

I understand. I bought my third #5 plane this week. It was a pretty nice type 11, but really, my third 5! The sad think is it's my second type 11 #5. Now I guess I am going to start collecting non corrugated type 11's...

Help me...someone please help me.

[Jim Koepke]

And it's not just planes, either. Yesterday, I had a brace, a saw, and a sliding bevel gauge follow me home from work.

Did you give your wife a hang down dogged faced look and ask, "can I keep them, I promise I will feed them and clean up after them if they make a mess?"

:o

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

adjuster nut knurling is diagonal

Stanley did use parts from inventory and did not even think about type. Your plane could be all original and have parts that are common to different types. Some parts did not change from type to type.

IMO, the adjuster nut is a pretty good determining factor. Though the vertical lettering on the lateral adjuster is later.

http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/stanleyplane/pftsynch.htm

and

http://www.rexmill.com/

Are the two sites I use for typing planes.

As stated, Stanley was in the business of making tools, not making sure they all had the parts neatly fitting into the type studies that were put together through composite studies years later.

Another thing to consider on the type studies is they were composed from studying the changes of the more popular and faster selling/changing #4.

I am not really sure if there was ever a study on how the planes and the subassemblies for the planes were stored. It is possible the frogs were assembled and the lateral adjusters may have not been in stock or they may not have been put on until the final assembly for some other reason.

If you take what you have and it puts a good surface on wood, the type is just a fun conversational topic.

It always makes me think of the Johnny Cash song, "One Piece at a Time" a story of how over many years he snuck a whole car home in his lunch box.

jtk

[Mark Baldwin III]

Don't leave them unattended with any random blocks of hardwood and spare irons. You'll end up with a bunch of woodies in the shop too!

[Rick Prosser]

It performs nicely! (Atlantic White Cedar)
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/reprosser/Woodworking/PlaneCurlies.jpg
I just cleaned up a few rust spots and sharpened the blade.

Also, a correction:

"Stanley" is on the lateral adjustment lever, but it is printed normaly - so if you hold the lever horizontal, you would read STANLEY from left to right like this sentence.

[George Penfold]

This is a very good site I use, when I have a new Stanley or are thinking of buying.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Covers just about every plane Stanley made.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

All good info. I would like to add the site http://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating_flowchart.php#Types 1-20 that walks you through a 'flowchart' to help ID your plane.

I have almost that exact same plane - except mine is a #5, and has a few minor differences (keyhole shape on the cap instead of kidney shaped, straight knurling on the adj knob). I figure mine to be a type 18, late 40's, possibly as a mix from parts from a few years. I bought it a few years ago and forgot about it, and only recently started to tear it down and clean it. there's a small 'dent' in one of the sides, and the blade is cracked right next to the slot where the screw attaches it to the cap iron. Still.....I cleaned it up, lapped the sole, and tried to sharp the blade best I could - it's clear that it was NEVER taken care of, or properly set up. It now makes nice thin shavings so I think I'll keep it :) I knew nothing of planes when I bought it, so if nothing else this has been educational.

How to I select a new plane iron for it - do I need to match the overall size? shape of the 'slot'? should I go by the generic "Stanley #5" or do I need to be more specific?

[Jim Koepke]

How to I select a new plane iron for it - do I need to match the overall size? shape of the 'slot'? should I go by the generic "Stanley #5" or do I need to be more specific?

If you go into your local hardware store they likely have a 2" plane blade that will work. Stanley sells them online for less than $20. This will not be what is known as a premium blade, but it will do fine until you want to spend more money on a Hock, LN, LV, IBC or any other blade. It will also be handy to have one if you work on unknown woods and have a concern about foreign objects or knots.

For making shavings, you will find one blade will do just about the same as any other. The first big difference is in the ability some of the blades have to hold an edge. The second difference is some blades are a bit thicker than others and will tend to have less vibration in some situations.

Though I have bought a few Hock blades, most of my planes work fine with the original Stanley blades.

Some of my planes have A1 or A2 blades. They are nice, but a bit tougher to sharpen.

In my opinion, one should get their sharpening skills honed before they start chasing after a better blade.

jtk

[Johnny Kleso]

Your plane is a in between Type 17

Type 18s have a Diagonal Knurling on Brass Adjusting Knob
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