Advice with next plane

[Adam Cormier]

Hey guys,

I have a Veritas LABU Jack plane with the 25, 38 and 50 degree blades.

Now that I know more about each of their functions, I am wanting to get a 2nd. I will be sticking with Veritas. Do I get a LA block plane, LABU smooth plane, LABU jointer plane or shoulder plane?

I want something that would be the next most useful in a shop considering what I already have. I don't want anything repetitive.

I need you experts to chime in. As a matter of fact, likely I will be getting all of them as I can afford them so could you maybe list them in order of priority? I know each person will have a different opinion on which one is more important than the other, I just want some opinions that will assist me with my decision.

Thanks for any input!

[Jim Koepke]

It really depends on the work you will be doing or want to do.

My first thought was to suggest the block plane as they come in handy for a lot of things, especially end grain. Though the LABU Jack and a shooting board can probably take care of that.

If you have a lot of long stock that needs to be jointed, then a jointer sounds like the next to get.

If you have more smoothing to do, then a smoother.

Have you been doing M & T work that needs a trim? Shoulder plane could be the ticket.

A shoulder plane or other rabbet plane can be useful when doing dovetails if you like to take a little off from inside the tail board before making the saw cuts. This makes it a touch easier to line up the pin board for marking and also makes the inside of the joint a little neater looking.

jtk

[bob blakeborough]

A shoulder plane or other rabbet plane can be useful when doing dovetails if you like to take a little off from inside the tail board before making the saw cuts. This makes it a touch easier to line up the pin board for marking and also makes the inside of the joint a little neater looking.

jtk

Thread Hijack!!! Sorry OP...

What is this DT trick you speak of??? Is this an old trick and I am way too new, or is this something everyone does and I am way too new?

[Prashun Patel]

Bob-
I too like Jim's trick. You basically cut a 1/16" rabbet off the inside of the tail board that is the depth of the tails. This makes it easy to line up the chisel for paring the insides of the tails, and provides solid registration when you hold up the pin board and scribe the pins on the 2nd board. When you close up the joint, the rabbet makes a neat-looking inside joint.

I'm surprised more people don't follow this practice...


As for the next plane:

I have the LABU smoother, the LABU jack, and the Apron block plane.

I agree with Jim (as if it adds any weight) that the block is a versatile plane. However, it's also a highly personal choice. If you have bigger hands, you might like the adj mouth LA block. The Veritas blocks are a little heavier than the LN's, so that factors in also. My personal favorite of the 4 is the LN 102.

The BU smoother, on the other hand will allow you to use all those blades you currently have. A good smooth plane is really priceless too if yr goal is to gradually wean yrself from sanding.

So, if the $$ is burning a hole in yr wallet, I'd buy the smoother, then try out a bunch of block planes to figure out which one you really want.

[Zach England]

By default each of these planes comes with a blade, but you already have the three main angles. I bet if you e-mail Lee Valley they will substitute a different blade, so I would try to get the toothed blade. I love that toothed blade.

If you don't need a toothed blade I would get a second of the 38 or 50 and hone a cambered profile on it. I did this when I ended up with a second of the 50 and it acts as a cambered high-angle smoother.

[Jim Koepke]

I agree with Jim (as if it adds any weight) that the block is a versatile plane. However, it's also a highly personal choice. If you have bigger hands, you might like the adj mouth LA block. The Veritas blocks are a little heavier than the LN's, so that factors in also. My personal favorite of the 4 is the LN 102.

+1 on what Prashun said. You want a block plane that fits your hand like wearing a glove. My block planes are also set up like my bench planes, for fine or coarse cuts and one has a cambered blade. Five of them are LA blocks with adjustable mouths. My standard angle block is an old Stanley #102. It makes me feel the LN 102 is likely a very nice plane for the small jobs.


What is this DT trick you speak of?

As Prashun said, just a trim from the inside at the base line of the tails. The tricky part is making it equal in all four inside corners of the tail boards.

jtk

[John Sanford]

Block Plane. Go Cadillac with the Veritas NX60, or go with the LN or Veritas LA Adjustable Mouth.

[Jim Neeley]

Hey guys,

I have a Veritas LABU Jack plane with the 25, 38 and 50 degree blades.

Now that I know more about each of their functions, I am wanting to get a 2nd. I will be sticking with Veritas. Do I get a LA block plane, LABU smooth plane, LABU jointer plane or shoulder plane?

I want something that would be the next most useful in a shop considering what I already have. I don't want anything repetitive.

I need you experts to chime in. As a matter of fact, likely I will be getting all of them as I can afford them so could you maybe list them in order of priority? I know each person will have a different opinion on which one is more important than the other, I just want some opinions that will assist me with my decision.

Thanks for any input!

Adam,

I'm just starting up the learning curve compared to many here but as I'm sure you realize if you already own the Veritas LABU jack with the three blades, those same blades fir their LABU jointer and BU Smoother (aka 164-1/2). I picked up the trio and a total of 6 blades (2 each angle) to get the most flexibility.

I also picked up the Veritas LA Block plane and the optional bubinga front knob and tote. If you read Veritas's write-up, their engineers came up with the knob and tote they engineers were challenged with developing a LA #3 independently and realized it was a copy of their LA BLock w/tote.

My thinking was the Block w/(easily removable)Tote gave me two planes in one. Eventually I may decide to get a higher-end Veritas LA block. If so, this becomes dedicated to #3 functionality. I'm awaiting more planes to be issued in the Veritas line of block planes (Stainless, Bronze?) to see what they come up with before jumping on the band wagon.

[paul cottingham]

BU block would be my next choice. Regardless of what type of woodworking you do, it is indispensable. My next choice would be the smoother, then the jointer, then a shoulder plane.

[Adam Cormier]

Well guys, thanks for all the great advice, I ended up getting a couple mint condition used plane's since my original post.

I got a Veritas low angle block plane and a bronze LN #4 smooth plane.

Looks like I just have a jointer plane to get now! then a shoulder plane! haha

Damn things are as addictive as drugs! lol