D-way tool Handle and P&N bowl gouge

[Ron Stadler]

Hello all, Well I have ordered a couple of things lately and one being the D-way handle and P&N Bowl gouge. I think I like both but had to add a set screw to the D-way handle to hold the P&N bowl gouge tang as you can see in the pic. The tang on the gouge only measured 1 15/16" and the farthest set screw on the D-way was right at 2" and barely caught the tang so I added a set screw (The middle one is the one I added). Obviously D-way only made these handle to fit there gouges and tools.

Now on the P&N gouge, well the first thing I notice is that the flute are very deep on these gouges compared to the one I already own, one being a sorby and then another just a cheap gouge that I picked up. Well, I sharpened all my tools up the night before and started using them the next morning, my findings were that the P&N gouge was cutting quite well but was getting clogged because of the deep flute, and I was running my thumb across it to get it unclogged. Well evidently I did a good job at sharpening them on the wolverine jig and cut my thumb quite well:eek::), anyway I was wondering if any of you had this gouge as well and what kind of profile you guys were using, as you can see mine in the pics, I like this profile but maybe something more swept back would help keep it unclogged and other thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.
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[Mark Hubl]

Ouch. Heal up quick. I have a couple of traditional grind bowl gouges and a couple that I try and get as close to an Ellsworth profile as possible. I use the Ellsworth (fingernail or as Del Stubbs called it Lady Finger) the most and like it.

[Ron Stadler]

Yep, I might have to end up there with this gouge if it get to much of a nuisance clogging up on me.

[Jon McElwain]

A spindle gouge will have a much more shallow flute, while a bowl gouge has the deeper flute as seen in your photos. I tend to grind my bowl gouges such that the cutting edge is a straight line between the tip of the tool and the top of the unground portion of the flute when viewed in side profile. A little difficult to explain, but in your first photo, if you drew a straight line between the tip of the tool and the top of the unground flute nearest the tip, you would have the profile I prefer. Well, I sweep it back a little more too. Anyway, this gives you a long cutting edge useful for coring out the hollow of a bowl.

As for the clogging of the flute, a very green blank will not tend to clog, and a very dry blank will not tend to clog (there are exceptions of course). In my experience, it is nearly dry wood that produces dust with just enough moisture to make the particles cohesive. I keep a small brass wire brush close by for these situations.

Good luck!

[David Walser]

Ron,

I cannot tell from your picture of the bowl gouge whether or not the flute is highly polished. If it's not well polished, that might account for the flute clogging up.

I have several bowl gouges with deep flutes and I've not noticed the depth of the flute causing a clogging problem. Instead, the shape of the flute seems to be an issue. A deep V, as opposed to a deep U, shape seems to clog -- but a bigger factor seems to be the type of wood I'm turning. Some woods have more resin and seem to gum up the inside flute of just about any gouge. So, I think, I'd try your gouge with blanks from several different types of wood to see if, perhaps, your first experience with your new gouge was misleading.

[Donny Lawson]

Those clogs can cause alot of cuts till you figure out not to use your finger to clean it out. I cut mine twice in one evening on the same bowl. I still haven't learned. Gloves help alot now.

[Harry Robinette]

Ron
I used P&N tools for a while, clean and wax the inside of the flute it helps a lot with chips exiting the flute, actually I now clean,wax and buff the inside of all my gouges I believe it helps to keep the edge clean so the cut is smoother.
Harry

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ouch that hurts. I had the same thing happen with my P & N gouge so sharpened it to a conventional grind to use for the final cuts.

[Ron Stadler]

Thanks guys, I will try buffing it and adding wax, sound like a good idea ( but what kind of wax should I use and should i just run the gouge through my buffer?) Also, Dave I believe the wood I was cutting that day was Red oak, still not quite dry wood but never had any problems with any other of my gouges with it, but I can definetly see your point. The pics that I posted on here just don't quite show the true depth of the p&n gouges but I think if I do as others have said,by buffing and waxing this might help or eliminate the problem.