Water pressure regulation question....

[Dennis Peacock]

Water pressure at my house is way too high. Evidently its been a problem for a very long time because when we bought the house in 2000 a pressure regulator was already installed on the "house side" of the water meter.

Water pressure builds in all the water lines over time and then when you turn on a faucet the water comes out at mach speed and then diminishes down to the regulated water pressure or about 45 PSI. Is there a way to stop this pressure build so I can stop fixing faucets and repairing broken waterline joints strewn about my property?

I hate digging in the mud in the winter and yes, I dislike plumbing anyway.

Is it time for a regulator replacement? DO I need more than one pressure regulator? What do I need to do to help reduce my plumbing damages.??

Now...off to fix a broken waterline.

[Lee Schierer]

Most pressure regulators depend upon flow to regulate. If there is no flow, the pressure downstream will gradually increase to the pressure upstream. Since water is non-compressible, you shouldn't really be able to see this pressure when you open your faucets. However, if you have trapped air or captive air devices in the lines to prevent water hammer then you could see a short burst of high pressure water before the system relaxes. Plastic water pipes will also expand slight due to pressure. Aerators on faucets should also make this surge less noticeable.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Our city water is nearly 100psi, which broke two faucet cartridges before I noticed the problem. There was a pressure regulator installed, but it apparently wasn't working (and it started making an eerie moaning noise!). I bought a simple regulator at Lowe's for, like, $20, and now we have 35 psi. There are no high-pressure bursts like you describe. Given how cheap regulators are, it might be worth putting one in just to try it and see if it fixes it.

[Peter Stahl]

Dennis,

Regulators aren't positive stops/off valves usually but there are some that are better than others. Which one I don't have a answer for that. Call you water company maybe they'll be able to help you. Maybe a expansion tank in the line would help like they use for hot water heating systems. Try asking your question on Terry Love's Plumbing forum, the experts over there would know. Dennis any idea what the water pressure is before the regulator?

[Dave Lehnert]

I had the same type of problem. Pressure would build and water shoot out of the faucet when you tuned them on.
The pressure regulator is bad. Replace and should solve your problem.

[Dennis Peacock]

I know a few years back, one of the neighbors tested the water pressure just past the meter. The pressure there was 128 PSI. Another neighbor of mine told me that it used to be as high as 140 PSI.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I think Lowe's also sells a pressure gauge that screws onto a hose spigot, and it's absurdly cheap (like $6 or something).

[Dave Lehnert]

Yes, what he said.

I just ran a test and i'm at 80 psi

On my regulator you can adjust the pressure by turning the bolt head on top of the unit.

[Gary Click]

My experience has been a little different. Our water pressure can exceed 140psi. I have found that if the pressure creeps up on the house side while using a quality regulator like a Watts, the regulator is "broke", or more likely the valve seat is silted up. Regulators can be cleaned by removing the strainer screen and the valve and seat but it is likely not worth splitting the case to do this.

These regulators are no different than a welding gas regulator. When the pressure on the house side equals the preset spring force (which is adjustable) the valve closes, flow stops and pressure stops rising. If the pressure creeps up with time the damage is still done.